monty Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Hi All, I am thinking of removing the gearbox tunnel to make access points for the o/d solenoid & especially the oil level/filler plug. Not knowing what the previous owner has done underneath the carpet, can somebody who has done this tell me what is involved? Is it just a matter of removing the seats then carpets to get to screws holding on the cover? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 You need to only remove the passenger seat and gear lever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 If you can do it insitu then as Neil has stated you can simply remove the pax seat and roll up the carpet. Cut holes into tunnel carefully. If you need to remove the tunnel then the centre 'H' frame support needs to come out with all the various controls to fiddle with. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Hi Monty ~ If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you phot's of how I provided access panels in the g/box tunnel of my TR3A. Well worth doing, believe me! Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Having spent last weekend grovelling around draining/refilling the g/box oil on my 4 this is on my to-do list as well! ....... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Hi Monty ~ If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you phot's of how I provided access panels in the g/box tunnel of my TR3A. Well worth doing, believe me! Tom. Tom, I think you will already have it as you kindly forwarded me details of the rear oil seal conversion a week or to ago. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 You need to only remove the passenger seat and gear lever. Will I not need to also remove drivers seat to get to any retaining screws? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 If you decide to take the cover out the screws should be hex bolts with little shaped plates acting as washers holding the cover down, it's rather tedious undoing all the bolts, but made much speedier using a suitable 3/8" socket and drill adaptor in a power screwdriver or small, reversible electric drill. As Roger says, you have to disconnect the switches and heater controls etc and remove the 'H' frame first. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Just read your last note, yes, it's made easier if you do remove both seats, taking the steering wheel off also helps (cover the end of the column with a bit of foam padding so you don't poke your eye out!!) Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Will I not need to also remove drivers seat to get to any retaining screws? No and the heater controls are in the switch plinth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Just a thought! Can access holes be put into the cover whilst in situ after pulling back necessary carpeting? Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Just a thought! Can access holes be put into the cover whilst in situ after pulling back necessary carpeting? Cheers. Yep a search on here will tell you all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trevor Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Yes, I did this with a big hole cutter and fitted a large grommet , think it's about 3" dia. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 No and the heater controls are in the switch plinth Neil, a TR4A has the heater controls in the H frame. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 Hi Monty, see post #3 - it can be done insitu but the choice is yours. If you have a plastic tunnel then you can cut it easily with a small dril then a shapr knife. Whilst you are at it remove the drivers seat and put an access hole in for the speedo angle drive. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 The solenoid is almost shrouded by the H frame legs, so measure carefully for this panel. If your carpet goes in one piece between the legs and the tunnel I think it could be difficult to pull it back far enough to make or use a solenoid access panel without at least loosening the H frame. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Wonderful! After pulling back the carpet, armed with cutter & ready to get to work on the tunnel cover, found the previous kind owner had already done it! Now I can get to check my oil level & top up just like my old MGC. Makes you wonder why Triumph didn't help us all those years ago & do the job then! Guess cutting a hole & supplying rubber grommet added to cost! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 My 1965 TR4A had access plates fitted on both sides, were well shaped of fairly heavy gauge metal and presumably original. I think the right-hand one with a bulge to clear the speedo cable ended up on Lynda's TR4A (MEL393F - long since sold to 'Norfolkjohn') which had a plastic tunnel fitted by the previous owner. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 On the original fibre board tunnel covers there was access panels but the repro plastic/fibreglass ones dont have them unfortunately. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Hi I cut a hole for the gearbox filler/level on the left handside, question is I really need a 7/16 square socket to get the plug out and back, as I still need to use a spanner to lossen from underneith, which is defeating the object of my lazeyness. I searched for a 7/16 square socket on the web, either 1/2 or 3/8 drive and looked at the shows this summer, but can find nothing. Does anybody know where or if such a thing exists and where I can get one. I can't be the first person to think of they must exist. only other option is to make a box socket from some steel tube. Any help gratefully received. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) Hi Mark, you could weld a big nut on the square end. Or you could use an 8 or 12 point socket http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X7%2F16+square+socket.TRS0&_nkw=7%2F16+square+socket&_sacat=0 There was a thread on here that gave a square (4 point socket) - on ebay I think. Roger if you went for a 8 or 12 point socket then it would need to be bigger than 7/16af - probably 17/32af. (0.530" Edited September 9, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Or weld an appropriate sized nut to the filler plug Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Roger beat me to it! Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I can undo mine with a 7/16 AF OE spanner from inside the car. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Thanks all. Hi Pete unfortunately issues with hand strength so can't undo through hole despite getting spanner on plug so need a socket tool. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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