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About MRG1965

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northampton, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Current car:
    TR4 1964 Black convertible

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376 profile views
  1. Hi you may find that using a ratchet spanner with a flat blade screwdriver bit in to get the screws out and back in to the tank as there is very little space between top of tank and boot lip. Work for me last spring. Mark
  2. HI, I've just put the standard inlet manifold back on my TR4 after removing it to fabricate an alternator heat shield and to refurbing the starter. I noticed the two holes in the standard manifold and re-tapped/cleaned out the threads in the two holes in the inlet manifold (5/16 unf I recall), but the bolts (screws) were missing initially and I decided not to put any back as I'm not convinced the method of holding the manifolds to the head is that secure, although it does seem to be standard across Triumphs of the era and I was concerned that it might put pressure on the manifold and pull it slightly away from the head at the top causing air leaks. Mine has not had any bolts connecting the two manifolds together for at least 5 years if not longer (depending when one of the PO's removed them) and has had no noticeable impact. Mark
  3. HI, when I had a generator on my 4 I just used an oil can with a flexible tip and put a few squirts in whilst it was running, although I'm sure most of the oil did not fully make it in to the bearing it was better than nothing. Mark
  4. How strange the numbers seem to be going up rather than down. I guess repatriation from the US along with long stored vehicles and projects getting back on the road.
  5. Ahh many many years ago as a teenager I was standing on a large Swarfega tin doing some welding through the hole in the boot floor of a car where the fuel tank had been as the car was stuck on a ramp at height for some reason or other. Only after I felt some warmth around my legs, did I realise that it was not a good idea to a) stand on a tin in the first place and b) to use the empty tin I'd just drained the fuel out of the tank in to, to be able to remove said tank. Thankfully it was only the residue as I emptied the fuel in to a proper fuel canister. Only pride hurt and a lesson learned. Mark
  6. MRG1965

    Ammeter again

    Well, if you can't find a local repair shop and you do go for a new unit be careful on the output as some have quite high outputs compared to what the wiring harness was designed for with a dynamo, unless you upgrade the wiring. And even the expensive stuff can be poor quality. I've stopped buying new items as I throw more away when they fail than last more than a year or so. If your current unit has provided a long life, then repair might be the better option. I'm sure there are many people on the forum who can provide references for people in your area. Mark
  7. MRG1965

    Ammeter again

    Agreed, previous battery may have been fatally damaged by a faulty alternator, if it were pushing too much voltage as the ammeter would not have indicate that. Mark
  8. HI all, so I've found the info I was looking for. Inertia starter takes 450Amps locked and 260Amps cranking, so based on the fact that if its locked I'm not going to be turning the key for more that a second or two, a 300amp cable should be exactly what I need to go off to the shops. Mark
  9. MRG1965

    Ammeter again

    Hi Monty, yes definitely sounds like the internal regulator. If you Google or YouTube you'll find tests and videos about testing and changing it if you feel confident or there are people out there who will either repair of a refurb one for about £50 or so. New part and your time much less. Mark
  10. MRG1965

    Ammeter again

    Hi Monty, no not slipping fan belt. Most likely the rectifier pack/voltage regulator. You don't say if it goes massively positive or negative or both. Mark
  11. Hi Pete, yes went to Halfords this afternoon and what they had looked very thin, much too thin, I think modern vehicles use much less amperage. Mark
  12. Hi all, silly question time. I'm looking to replace the positive battery leads (battery -solonoid-starter.). Can any body confirm what the size I need to get is, cross section or amp rating? I have the latter type bolt on ring gear and lucas starter 25521D not bomb type. Regards Mark
  13. HI Ian, yes I have used the plastic plug to hold the 3 connectors and the wiring loops around and over the top of the alternator to avoid and the heat and the danger of any rubbing on the wiring. Mark
  14. Hi, Ricky, Sorry, but I can't see how the previous owner would have replaced anything with the oil still in it, this has happened since it was last buttoned up, Driving this any further or even running the engine, is only going trash anything that might be still serviceable. Open the top and look inside, you should be able to see movement in the lay shaft and see broken teeth if there are any, might be cheaper to get a replacement and rebuild it as there could also be bits of gear teeth in the pictures too. Mark
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