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MRG1965

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About MRG1965

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northampton, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Current car:
    TR4 1964 Black convertible

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  1. Hi Bob, yes, spark plug body connected to an air line connector. Mark
  2. Hi, looks like a home made cylinder leak tester, made one my self about 40 years ago. Set cylinder to TDC on the firing stroke, put in gear and chock wheels if needed, screw the spark plug adaptor in to the chosen cylinder and connect up your air line. Listen for air leaks out of the exhaust, carbs, crank case and also water or bubbles out of the radiator to indicate if valves, head gasket or rings are worn or failed. Mark
  3. MRG1965

    JamieH

    HI, might also be an air leak, my 64 TR has HS6 fitted and the previous owner fit a few extra springs to try to force the butterfly closed, but I've always had an annoying issue that the engine would randomly idle at around 1500 rpm once warm. I only found that I'd accidentally cured the problem when I replaced the crank case breather pipes between the rocker cover and both carbs last summer. Mark
  4. Nice video Chris. On a similar Le Mans note here's Mike Hawthorne early news reel show drive around the circuit in1956 in a D type, public roads, cyclists and pedestrians not withstanding, how times and Heath and Safety have changed :-). Mark
  5. HI Guys and Girls, quick question, I need to replace the ignition coli on my TR4 (12V, non ballast, with points) has decided to die whilst the cars been in the garage for the last few weeks. Have replaced it with a spare but the writing on both the old and spare has long gone, but the engine fires first time wit the spare, but not at all with the old coli, so I know it's the coil, after checking all the other possibilities. Question is what 12v, non ballast resister coil do I need, 3 Ohm or 1.5 Ohm, to be honest other than one being 36W and the other being 18W I really have no idea if either over loads the ignition system or makes no difference or one makes a bigger better spark for better starting. Any advice on which is the correct one to get would b appreciated. Mark
  6. Studs ordered. They have lots of shiny and expensive parts, they also have new hubs for reasonable price too, so if it all goes pear shaped I know where to get new ones from. Mark
  7. Thanks, I'll look them up. yes the grease may very well be me, although the other side is fine, but I'll just keep an eye on it for now. Many thanks. Mark
  8. Thanks Stuart, I'm undecided if I need to repair or go for the later splined studs. I'm assuming that I would just need to remove the existing studs, drill out to the hub to the correct interference size (whatever that may be) or is the existing threaded hole okay and just pull them through using a suitable nut? But if that's all that's required, then I might just go for that as it would be much better solution to me and I can forget about another one failing in the future. The main reason for removing the hub is the outer grease seal appears to be leaking, but I may just clean up and keep an eye on that as I did not feel any issues with the bearing, but I'll double check the end float just to be sure. Sounds like I'd have to replace the suds with the steel wheel length to remove the hub and then cut them down to the correct wire wheel length after. I see Rimmers do a puller RX1542, but this appears to be for the Sptifire so may be smaller. Mark
  9. Thanks for the advice Peter, if you still have the tool and are willing to loan, I'd be happy to cover postage both ways plus something for your self, no come back on you. If not, no problem. Mark
  10. Thanks Ian, yes I assumed it would need quite some force. I understand now why the flange has some battle scars. When I first got the car I had to dress the edge where the drum fits over the flange to be able to get drum back as it had been forced back in to place. The manual just say use ├żool M.86A as if its feather duster to remove the flange. Mark
  11. Hi all , so today doing a bit of pre MOT checks on my 1964 TR4 (yes I know its exempt). Found one loose stud on the rear hub (wire wheels), looks like a poor repair in the past as it has some pigeon cr*p weld. Also fond the outer gease hub seal also looks like it leaking, but not on shoes yet. Question: has anybody had any practical experience of the oversized Revington repair stud (RTR1385) and do they work? Also how hard will it be to get the rear hub off the half shaft to replace the seal? Mark
  12. Hi you may find that using a ratchet spanner with a flat blade screwdriver bit in to get the screws out and back in to the tank as there is very little space between top of tank and boot lip. Work for me last spring. Mark
  13. HI, I've just put the standard inlet manifold back on my TR4 after removing it to fabricate an alternator heat shield and to refurbing the starter. I noticed the two holes in the standard manifold and re-tapped/cleaned out the threads in the two holes in the inlet manifold (5/16 unf I recall), but the bolts (screws) were missing initially and I decided not to put any back as I'm not convinced the method of holding the manifolds to the head is that secure, although it does seem to be standard across Triumphs of the era and I was concerned that it might put pressure on the manifold and pull it slightly away from the head at the top causing air leaks. Mine has not had any bolts connecting the two manifolds together for at least 5 years if not longer (depending when one of the PO's removed them) and has had no noticeable impact. Mark
  14. HI, when I had a generator on my 4 I just used an oil can with a flexible tip and put a few squirts in whilst it was running, although I'm sure most of the oil did not fully make it in to the bearing it was better than nothing. Mark
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