Aldy Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Hello My original pump wouldn't prime and having removed and cleaned it all appears to be sound. The diaphragm is made up of three layers which appear to be sound with no splits When re assembling lining up the tab and turning quarter turn to the right the diaphragm sits at an odd angle although moves up and down using the hand primer lever. Should this sit at a more upright position. Having blown through the inlet and outlet valves these are clear. Having reassembled and testing on the bench there is no suction from the inlet when using the primer lever. The other problem is that removal of the diaphragm assembly is not straight forward and takes a lot of juggling about to release the rod from the link lever. I am wondering what more could be wrong with the pump and if a repair kit would resolve the issue. Not sure how to remove the inlet outlet valves if they need replacing. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Aldy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 If the diaphragm is sealing properly both to the body and its operating rod, the only other thing that could cause this is the non-return valves. If you can't see a screwed fixing plate then yours are the type which are held in by the edges of the recess being nipped over. The usual refurb kits do not include the oil seal for the diaphragm rod, but I believe they can be purchased from Land Rover (?) sources. The best advice is usually to send it to Dave Davies for refurb (07909 737531) . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PGB BME Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 I’ve had a couple refurbed by Dave, does a good job Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G Denson Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 I can also vouch for Dave Davies. He did a fantastic job for me. He is very approachable and is one of the “ old school “ Gordon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Has Richard Crewe Read not got exchange available? https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/profile/10723-rcreweread/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Howard722 Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 (edited) 1 hour ago, RobH said: If the diaphragm is sealing properly both to the body and its operating rod, the only other thing that could cause this is the non-return valves. If you can't see a screwed fixing plate then yours are the type which are held in by the edges of the recess being nipped over. The usual refurb kits do not include the oil seal for the diaphragm rod, but I believe they can be purchased from Land Rover (?) sources. The best advice is usually to send it to Dave Davies for refurb (07909 737531) . The non-return valves are the likely culprit and best replaced although it can be a tiresome job if they are peaned in! I`ve refurbed a few AC pumps over the years and new valves have worked for me and would always replace them in the future as a new diaphragm alone whilst its the easy option may not do the job!. Edited February 25 by Howard722 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Has Richard Crewe Read not got exchange available? https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/profile/10723-rcreweread/ Aldy - if your pump is an original AC Delco unit, then as others have said, send it off to Dave Davies to refurb. If your pump is a repro, then I do have some spare OE pumps which have been refurbed by Dave - send me a PM ( personal Message - top right hand corner and click on the envelope icon), and I'll send you some more details. He does a lovely job - see attached photos Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Australian spec only or also European Rich? We need one of our photo inversion elves to do the magic, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Just now, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Australian spec only or also European Rich? We need one of our photo inversion elves to do the magic, I don’t know why it does this sometimes but not other times - they are all the right way up when I select them! mo idea how to change them around once posted- hopefully someone can oblige! cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 25 Report Share Posted February 25 Save the photo to your computer and then invert it on the computer before uploading it again. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aldy Posted February 26 Author Report Share Posted February 26 Thank you guys for your interest and constructive suggestions. As suggested I have contacted Dave Davies and will send my pump to him. Aldy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aldy Posted April 8 Author Report Share Posted April 8 Hi Have finally installed fuel pump refurbished by Dave Davies who has done a superb job however still not getting fuel when priming. I understand that when fitting the actuating lever of the pump has to be above the cam and not below and made sure that the actuating lever was held up when fitting. How can you tell when fitted that this has been fitted correctly. Also if not would the pump still prime. I have not started the engine at this stage. Rather than remove the pump I think the next step is to see if the fuel line is blocked from the tank to the pump. I f so how best can I clear it without access to an air line. Would appreciate your thoughts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted April 8 Report Share Posted April 8 Aldy, I`m not sure which TR you are working on, but some have a motorcycle type fuel tap low down in the engine compartment. It is there so you can disconect the fuel line without the high mounted tank draining. If you have this tap check that it is open (pulled out). Next, have you got enough fuel in the tank?, may sound obvious, but if the tank was completely empty just putting one gallon in may not be enough to cover the outlet pipe which is generally raised off the bottom of the tank as a guard against sediment getting in the pipe. Try putting a length of pipe direct to the pump inlet and the other end in a can of fuel and see if the pump primes then using the priming lever, at least then you will know that the pump is OK. You should not need an airline to check that the pipe from the tank is ok, you should be able to push a rubber pipe over the end of the pipe in the engine bay long enough to be able to blow down whilst listening for bubbles in the tank (open the filler cap). Lung pressure alone should be enough to achieve this, although if there is sufficient fuel in the tank and the tap is open the usual problem is stopping the petrol coming out on it`s own under gravity, and if this is not happening then you almost certainly do have a blockage somewhere. Hope some of the above helps, let us know if you find the problem, Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 8 Report Share Posted April 8 (edited) If you have or can borrow a tyre inflator eg a 12v emergency type you can try pressurising the fuel line from the engine bay fuel pump to the tank. Worked for me at a race meeting. Partial blockage issue turned out to be a small section of rubber pipe near rear axle joining the 2 metal pipes from the tank had deteriorated. Edited April 8 by Hamish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 8 Report Share Posted April 8 I'm with Ralph here, simply blow (via a length of hose) the fuel back into the tank, that willclear (for the time being) any obstruction. I used to do this from time to time on my 1935 Hillman when it would die on me. cause was "stuff" in the tank which would block the exit pipe. finally cured by multiple draining, & flushing of the tank, & finally fitting an internal filter. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aldy Posted April 9 Author Report Share Posted April 9 Thank you gents for your interest and positive suggestions. Ralph I tested the fuel pump as you suggested and it works fine. I didn't realize that using a blow through pipe to clear the fuel line would take such little puff. The resultant bubbles were followed by a surge of fuel through the fuel tap, the cork seal having decided to be part of the action didn't hold back the fuel in the closed position. Lifting the front of the car stopped the flow so now I will replace the cork seal or look at alternatives as these seals tend to shrink with inaction. Again thank you all for your help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 Aldy- it would be worth investigating why the blockage occurred in the first place, because if it's happened once, it could easily happen again. Possibly rust debris which will need dealing with - have a look in the tank and see whats there! cheers Rich C-R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 Swap the cork for a suitable size of fuel pipe in the tap - worked for me for the last 11 years. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 2 hours ago, Lebro said: Swap the cork for a suitable size of fuel pipe in the tap - worked for me for the last 11 years. Bob As long as the pipe is Ethanol proof Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 I agree (nominaly) but I did this mod in 2013 before ethanol became known to cause problems, so the pipe I used would have been nothing special. It's still ok ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john minchin Posted April 9 Report Share Posted April 9 If the pump is dry it may not pump, mine did not after last winter. I had to tip some petrol into it. Then it all worked fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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