Tiger123 Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 10 hours ago, Andy Moltu said: Refill the water in the morning. Start it up, keep an eye on the temperature gauge and check the top hose to confirm the thermostat is opening properly. If not you probably have solved the problem Do you still have the mechanical fan or just the electric fan? If just the electrical one, check it switches on as the temperature rises, or manually switch it on and see if keeps the temperature down. I had Scimitar GTE 5A that seemed to gobble up thermostats with alarming regularity. Hi Andy Fan is electrical with switch under the dash worked fine yesterday if it turns out its the thermostat Revingtons are 25 minutes from home so can pop out to get a replacement Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tiger123 Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 Good Morning Before I started the car I check water level on the radiator levels spot on car started no problem on choke ran the car for 20 minutes and the gauge did not move above the halfway mark didn't bother with the fan until the three quarter mark reached once back to halfway switched engine off Noted the following Small amout of steam leakage around the radiator cap (which is about a year old) 7lbs pressure on the cap Top hose radiator to thermostat housing remained hot as you would expect Bottom hose hot Bypass hose hot Radiator top and bottom hot to what one would expect Going to order a new pressure cap and see what happens couldn't get out for a real world drive as we have the tree surgeons here Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 Hi Terry, the steam at the rad cap could easily be water residue evaporating with the hot rad. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 18 minutes ago, Tiger123 said: Good Morning Before I started the car I check water level on the radiator levels spot on car started no problem on choke ran the car for 20 minutes and the gauge did not move above the halfway mark didn't bother with the fan until the three quarter mark reached once back to halfway switched engine off Noted the following Small amout of steam leakage around the radiator cap (which is about a year old) 7lbs pressure on the cap Top hose radiator to thermostat housing remained hot as you would expect Bottom hose hot Bypass hose hot Radiator top and bottom hot to what one would expect Going to order a new pressure cap and see what happens couldn't get out for a real world drive as we have the tree surgeons here I think if it’s Spot On now you had to much Water in the Rad before,it’s now found the level of where it should be so hopefully you’ll be good to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tiger123 Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 5 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Terry, the steam at the rad cap could easily be water residue evaporating with the hot rad. Roger Yes it could be Roger think I need to get the car out on a run and see what happens hopefully this week sometime Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tiger123 Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 3 minutes ago, TR NIALL said: I think if it’s Spot On now you had to much Water in the Rad before,it’s now found the level of where it should be so hopefully you’ll be good to go. Yes let's hope so a run out later this week hopefully in a real world traffic will help to confirm if the problem is solved Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 Good luck with the real world test If I have understood this correctly, the original mechanical cooling fan has been removed and replaced with an electric fan. However, the electric fan is only operated by a manual switch. Notwithstanding the car's good behaviour in hot conditions, life might be a bit easier for you if the electric fan was connected to a thermo switch in the cooling system so that the fan comes on automatically when the engine starts to get too. A common arrangement is to use an otter switch in a metal downpipe from the radiator, available from the usual suspects. You should also retain the manual switch as an override to switch the fan on when you anticipate things getting really hot. This way you can relax a bit and will not be constantly looking at the temp gauge in hot weather. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mick-the-click Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 Hi guys and gals . I just joined the forum and the Register . I’m piggybacking onto this post as I also have an overheating issue . I’m going through the usual process and started by checking the coolant level and have now removed the wax thermostat which I shall replace regardless . In my research I have discovered the bellows style thermostat which is considerably more expensive, are they worth the extra money , what type was fitted originally. I’m aware that my rad cap must not exceed 7psi . Any thoughts , observations, suggestions would be appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 The bellows thermostat isn’t necessarily better or more reliable. Some of the earlier 4 cylinder engines had no restriction in the flow through the bypass hose. As the engine warms and the stat opens the thermostat closes off flow through the bipass so that the flow goes through the radiator. Later cars have a restriction in the housing to limit the flow through the bipass hose so there is no need for the thermostat to obscure this opening when the stat is open. If you restrict the bipass on an earlier car you can use a later stat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 (edited) 32 minutes ago, Mick-the-click said: are they worth the extra money In a word- no unless you are concerned about absolute originality. The 4-pot engines have a bypass hose which allows water to circulate before the thermostat has opened, while the engine is warming up . They used a special bellows thermostat with a sleeve on it, and when the thermostat opens, the sleeve closes off the outlet hose to the bypass. This arrangement has been found to be unnecessary if the bypass pipe has a simple restrictor fitted reducing the diameter to about 6mm, and this allows an ordinary thermostat to be used. I believe later cars had the housing redesigned with a smaller outlet orifice as standard and your car may have this or it may have a restrictor fitted by a previous owner. Ordinary bellows thermostats do not have the sleeve which is why the special ones are so expensive . Edited January 16 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 (edited) Hi Mick, the bellows thermostat first is a horrible plug, I wonder how the engines are cooled anyway - but they do! Second the sleeve is only „a hope“, it can’t close the bypass. So even fully opened (and the bypass "closed") massiv coolant flows the bypass. There is a „full size“ post about this issue at this forum. Ciao, Marco Edited January 16 by Z320 missing word added Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 Hello Mick Welcome to the forum have a look here for many various reasons for a hot 4 pot engine. HERE Whatever the problem is start with the easiest answer Good Luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 Here it is, I join the post at the end of page 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tiger123 Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 2 hours ago, MilesA said: Good luck with the real world test If I have understood this correctly, the original mechanical cooling fan has been removed and replaced with an electric fan. However, the electric fan is only operated by a manual switch. Notwithstanding the car's good behaviour in hot conditions, life might be a bit easier for you if the electric fan was connected to a thermo switch in the cooling system so that the fan comes on automatically when the engine starts to get too. A common arrangement is to use an otter switch in a metal downpipe from the radiator, available from the usual suspects. You should also retain the manual switch as an override to switch the fan on when you anticipate things getting really hot. This way you can relax a bit and will not be constantly looking at the temp gauge in hot weather. Miles Miles Thank you for your suggestion I have already started to investigate the setup you have suggested Regards Terry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tiger123 Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 So took the car for a test drive this afternoon water temperature was fine but now have a leak from the water pump housing I guess a new water and gasket required any suggestions as to supplier as we know quality varies from some suppliers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 33 minutes ago, Tiger123 said: So took the car for a test drive this afternoon water temperature was fine but now have a leak from the water pump housing I guess a new water and gasket required any suggestions as to supplier as we know quality varies from some suppliers Terry - is your existing pump an original or period repro pump ie Quinton Hazell - if so you can get it reconditioned at EP Services who will rebuild it with sealed bearings and a ceramic seals - it then comes with a lifetime warranty - details are : https://www.ep-services.co.uk/1_4_contact-us.html E.P. Services Unit 1 Central Trading Estate, Cable Street Wolverhampton, Staffordshire, WV2 2RJ England Phone: 01902 452914 Out of hours: 07770 747724 - ask for Paul Alternatively, I do have a few surplus pumps which have already been done by EPS which I am happy to sell. so if of interest, please send me a PM ( Personal Message - click on my avatar and you will see the message option) with your contact details. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 3 hours ago, Mick-the-click said: Hi guys and gals . I just joined the forum and the Register . I’m piggybacking onto this post as I also have an overheating issue . I’m going through the usual process and started by checking the coolant level and have now removed the wax thermostat which I shall replace regardless . In my research I have discovered the bellows style thermostat which is considerably more expensive, are they worth the extra money , what type was fitted originally. I’m aware that my rad cap must not exceed 7psi . Any thoughts , observations, suggestions would be appreciated. Mick(?) - another welcome to the forum from me and good choice of car -is it a 4 or 4A? If the latter, and it turns out you need a new rad ( I hope you don't), I have some really nice original Stanpart rads which I've had recored by a long established local specialist - they are a bargain at £275 outright - see this link to my ad in Classifieds : https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/6105/TR4A-Stanpart-Radiators-Reconditioned-For-Sale-Great-Price I've also got lots of other cooling system parts so if of interest, please send me a PM ( Personal Message - click on my avatar and you will see the message option) with your contact details. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 The thing that I find most amazing from reading this thread, is that anyone can run a 4 pot TR in summer, in a traffic jam, without a fan, for over an hour without it over heating. Mine would have melted after 15 minutes. I can leave mine ticking over on the drive without overheating, but the electric fan cuts in for about 15 seconds approximately once every minute. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 +1 Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 (edited) 6 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: The thing that I find most amazing from reading this thread, is that anyone can run a 4 pot TR in summer, in a traffic jam, without a fan, for over an hour without it over heating. Mine would have melted after 15 minutes. I can leave mine ticking over on the drive without overheating, but the electric fan cuts in for about 15 seconds approximately once every minute. Ralph +2 Midsummer on the M25 coming back from my brothers ( a 25 mile motorway drive to that point) I almost always get stuck in the traffic where it crosses the M4. That is commonly an half hour first gear crawl. The fan cuts in and out continually. Once driving at 25 mph or more the fan cuts out and stays off. Slow or stop again and the fan will cut in after a few minutes. The fan cuts in at just under 3/4 hot on the gauge. The fan drags the temp down quite quickly. Usual running temp is on or just below 1/2 hot. The thermostat is 82 degree Tridon. This has been more prevalent since removing the oil cooler assy, so probably not a direct result of climate change. Edited January 19 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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