Paul Garvey Posted December 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 14 minutes ago, stuart said: There has always been the option of washers to tilt the engine slightly for a better fit due to the vagaries of chassis construction on earlier cars item 79 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/engines-components/external-engine-tr2-4a-1953-67.html Stuart. The notorious lumps of metal are bolted on. I need to drop the suspension to get good access to the nuts, then try engine with the current engine plate. If still not right I will have to source a TR4/4a engine plate. My fear is having to time the camshaft which I have never done before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 21, 2023 Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 2 minutes ago, Paul Garvey said: The notorious lumps of metal are bolted on. I need to drop the suspension to get good access to the nuts, then try engine with the current engine plate. If still not right I will have to source a TR4/4a engine plate. My fear is having to time the camshaft which I have never done before. See what happens once youve got the blocks out of the way, I suspect they will come out without removing the engine just lift it enough on your engine crane. Theres loads of info on here about timing the cam but if you dont disturb anything except to remove sprockets and end cam bearing then you shouldnt need to retime. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 21, 2023 Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 FWIW this is the measurement between the two webs on a 3a front plate, see how it compares with yours Stuart  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dale  Moore Posted December 21, 2023 Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 Looks like tr3 has radiused corners on the mounting bracket. Yours looks like it has the 45 degree chamfer like on my 4a. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted December 21, 2023 Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 It looks like your plate has been worked on looking at the LH mount bracket shape and weld. Perhaps it has been reduced due to breakage re welded shorter and the metal blocks used to replace the reduced measurements/amount . Just a guess Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 21, 2023 Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, stuart said: There has always been the option of washers to tilt the engine slightly for a better fit due to the vagaries of chassis construction on earlier cars item 79 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/engines-components/external-engine-tr2-4a-1953-67.html Stuart. Yeah I know, but mine are slotted, easy to get in and out. German engineering. Transforms a simple TR to rocket technology. Edited December 21, 2023 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 21, 2023 Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 43 minutes ago, Z320 said: Yeah I know, but mine are slotted, easy to get in and out. German engineering. Transforms a simple TR to rocket technology. I always do that anyway as until youve got the engine in and all the carbs and manifolds fitted you cant tell if you need them Werner Von Braun eat your heart out Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted December 22, 2023 Report Share Posted December 22, 2023 The TR2 and TR4/4a front plate are very different animals. Guess how I found out when rebuilding my then TR4 engine and slotting it into the chassis. David came to my rescue with a proper TR4 one. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted December 22, 2023 Report Share Posted December 22, 2023 FYI - adding the slotted washers to lift the front of the engine slightly, can also give you just enough clearance between the steering rack and the the fan extension, to be able to remove/add the fan belt. Just be mindful of the clearance between the top of the radiator and the bonnet brace. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted December 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2023 On 12/20/2023 at 7:46 PM, Dale  Moore said: Browsing Tr 3 and 4 front plates show the nearside bracket on the 4 is chamfered at 45°, which yours has. Why not just get rid of the blocks and see if the std flex mounts fit then? Dale Dale You are absolutely right there are 2 things that differentiate the 3 and 4 front engine plates. The one you have highlighted and with the timing cover of the 3 has an elongated hole about the camshaft whereas the 4 has an oval hole there. That means mine has the TR4 plate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted December 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2023 On 12/21/2023 at 1:27 PM, stuart said: FWIW this is the measurement between the two webs on a 3a front plate, see how it compares with yours Stuart  Hi Stuart Firstly Rob Taylor sends his regards (if you can remember him). Mine is the 4 engine plate due to the 2 differentiating areas. But a big thanks for your help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted December 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2023 On 12/21/2023 at 1:10 PM, Paul Garvey said: The notorious lumps of metal are bolted on. I need to drop the suspension to get good access to the nuts, then try engine with the current engine plate. If still not right I will have to source a TR4/4a engine plate. My fear is having to time the camshaft which I have never done before. Hi  This is a long shot.......but The car was built by a Chris Hill who lived near Mansfield at the time. Does anyone know Chris Hill so I can ask him why the metal lumps were fitted (even though I hope to get them off the car.) He bought the vast majority of the parts from TR Enterprises. I have contacted them as 1 of the owners knew the car and Chris Hill and after the Xmas break they will see if they have any way of contacting Chris. I have the address when he built the car but the telephone number does not connect so I am assuming he has moved. A long shot but has anyone a contact for Chris Hill? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted December 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2023 On 12/21/2023 at 1:15 PM, stuart said: See what happens once youve got the blocks out of the way, I suspect they will come out without removing the engine just lift it enough on your engine crane. Theres loads of info on here about timing the cam but if you dont disturb anything except to remove sprockets and end cam bearing then you shouldnt need to retime. Stuart. Hi Stuart This shows a screwdriver through the lump of metal and chassis, I suspect this is the hole where the mountings should have been bolted on from underneath without the lump of metal. To the right of the screwdriver blade you can just see one of the nuts securing the metal lump, I assume there is another further in so after Xmas I am dropping the suspension to get a better access the what I think will be 2 nuts. I must say to all who have contributed a big thank you. I only switched to TR's from MG t types this year so it has been a steep learning curve and I am impressed with all the help. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 23, 2023 Report Share Posted December 23, 2023 (edited) There are two holes in the crossmember and the engine is mounted in the rear of the two, I wonder how steep your top hose must have been angled at with the engine lifted that high. These are the uprated LR mounts fitted to mine. Stuart  Edited December 23, 2023 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted December 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 On 12/21/2023 at 1:15 PM, stuart said: See what happens once youve got the blocks out of the way, I suspect they will come out without removing the engine just lift it enough on your engine crane. Theres loads of info on here about timing the cam but if you dont disturb anything except to remove sprockets and end cam bearing then you shouldnt need to retime. Stuart. Hi  The lumps of iron are out, waiting for a friend to give me a hand to put the engine back in the original place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 27, 2023 Report Share Posted December 27, 2023 Wow - Paul, they are mighty lumps indeed., Â Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted December 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2023 The engine is now in the car. The metal lumps are out of the car sat on the bench. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 29, 2023 Report Share Posted December 29, 2023 17 hours ago, Paul Garvey said: The engine is now in the car. The metal lumps are out of the car sat on the bench. I take it it was a lot easier to fit the mountings now as well. You didnt happen to save an underbonnet picture from the original advert did you or before you took the engine out? Just curious as to how the top hose fitted with the extra height of the engine. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted December 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2023 3 hours ago, stuart said: I take it it was a lot easier to fit the mountings now as well. You didnt happen to save an underbonnet picture from the original advert did you or before you took the engine out? Just curious as to how the top hose fitted with the extra height of the engine. Stuart. The only photo I have is blurred but you can see the hose slopes from the engine to the radiator. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4Tony VC Posted January 3 Report Share Posted January 3 On 12/19/2023 at 5:55 PM, Bleednipple said: Had similar struggle earlier this year, had a pretty similar distance off as in your pic . All I can say is a meaty pry-bar, a piece of scaffold pipe and a big lump hammer eventually resolved it. With a lot of indelicate language. If anyone knows a more technical way, I'd love to hear it for next time. Nigel Nigel I find just putting the nuts on the threaded bolts a tiny bit on the chassis side of the mounts allows enough room to prise them onto the engine plate and slot through, then tighten up both sides. Always a squeeze and shove job, but usually not big hammer action! regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil Dean Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 I agree with Tony get one side on but loose on nuts both the one to the chassis and one to the engine bracket. I then found it easier to loosley bolt the other side to the engine mounting bracket with a jack supporting the sump via a big flat piece of wood covering most of the sump to spread the load then using a good old bit of 3 be 2 leaver it over and down so bolt head finds the hole in the chassis . Fiddly but do able. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted January 17 Author Report Share Posted January 17 On 12/19/2023 at 6:28 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: What has happened to the inner ring of the front crank pulley? Â One half looks shattered. Having done a bit of research on the front crank pulley. I think it is from a MGB. Does anyone have a MGB to confirm please. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 17 Report Share Posted January 17 It is the pulley used in most of the front pulley modification kits for TR,  and the one pictured in the original post photos looks like one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Garvey Posted January 20 Author Report Share Posted January 20 On 1/17/2024 at 2:41 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: It is the pulley used in most of the front pulley modification kits for TR,  and the one pictured in the original post photos looks like one. Thank you for this information, if in the future I wish to change the pulley does the pulley the Moss supply fit straight on with no further modification? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 20 Report Share Posted January 20 1 hour ago, Paul Garvey said: Thank you for this information, if in the future I wish to change the pulley does the pulley the Moss supply fit straight on with no further modification? If it is a pulley for MGB of the same diameter YES.   Part no 12H963. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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