Her first 500 miles service check items? Update

[PodOne]

Hi all

As most will know she's being on the road now a while and today hit 500 miles after 120 mile run at varying speeds up to 80-85mph . No immediate major issues just small matters that need attention over the next 12 months.

So what diid it feel like?

She started well and with previous advice fast idles at bang on 1500rpm. Overall brilliant with smooth acceleration and a great sound track and the OD with Rogers Logic Box makes cruising a pleasure. Oil pressure cold nearly off the scale, hot idle 20 at 3500 - 4500 rpm  45 - 60. Previous Dizzy oil leak remains fixed and the heater works well! 

So what to do next and niggles?

This is what I'm thinking chip in if you think of anything I've missed.

1) Change engine oil/filter (have 5L Millers Classic)

2) Retorque head nuts and set tappets.

3) Check GB oil level - it leaks, not a lot just a few drips when stood is this normal for these cars?

4) The diff was the only component I haven't completely stripped and has a bit of whine in first gear but then nothing obtrusive. Might just run with it for a while for now but would appreciate a recommendation as to where to have it overhaul as I haven't the tooling.

5) She drives straight but feel a four wheel alignment and tracking over my DIY efforts will provide further improvement. Anyone know of a good place local to Wakefield?

6) Headlight alignment.

One last thing Ferodo front pads fitted stop the car well compared to the usual cheap offerings but boy do they squeal around town at low speed. Is there a cure??

Thanks

Andy 

   

[RogerH]

Hi Andy,

you can get anti-squeal shims - they may work.  HERE

Also do not have the locating pins in the pads too tight

They may actually sort themselves out.

Roger

[Roadrunner Paul]

3M do some self adhesive anti squeal shims which proved very effective on my TR5 with Ferodo pads. I had tried the usual mild steel shims with little success, then stainless ones and finally the 3M shims. Their 2889 Universal Kit is sold by a number of vendors on eBay - you simply cut to size (if necessary - I cannot remember if this was necessary). Not too pricey at £5.50 a set.
 

Best of luck

Paul

[PodOne]

55 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Andy,

you can get anti-squeal shims - they may work.  HERE

Also do not have the locating pins in the pads too tight

They may actually sort themselves out.

Roger

Hi Roger

I have the SS shims fitted and the pins were free but I'll check them while I try Pauls suggestion which as he says may offer a cheap fix.

I'll report back.

Andy 

[Dave McDonald]

Andy, 

Glad the car is running well and you’re enjoying it. 
Pete Cox & Son (Tom) at Redditch for diff rebuild.

Dave McD

[rcreweread]

Andy - +1 for Pete Cox (Tom) for diff rebuild - also worth checking your ratio whilst you are at it as now is the time to change it, if it needs it - if youyr car was an original US import, it will probably have a 3.7 ratio as opposed to the UK cars with a 3.45 - the latter will give nicer cruising capability  but at the expense of a slight drop in acceleration.

However, you said at the start of the post that the diff whine was noticeable in first gear - normally if a diff is whining, it will be apparent in all gears once it gets up to the rotational speed where it whines, so not just 1st gear - bear in mind 1st gears are typically more noisy than the other gears.

Hope this helps

Cheers Rich 

[PodOne]

Hi Rich/Dave

UK car. But it doesn't rule out the possibility its been replaced in the past with a 3.7. 

Only my car to compare with so perhaps then normal in 1st. I'll run with it and see at some point if I can have a lift in another UK car to compare notes.

Forgot Pete/Tom do diffs as well as GB/OD work if it comes to it.

Thanks.

[Waldi]

Hi Andy,

re the GB drips: you should be concerned if you do not see these;)

Waldi

[PodOne]

1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Hi Andy,

re the GB drips: you should be concerned if you do not see these;)

Waldi

Kitty litter or a tray it is then!

[Steve-B]

Andy, very inspiring report and you might consider adding checking the colour of the spark plugs inspection to your list. 

[astontr6]

On 11/26/2023 at 8:42 AM, rcreweread said:

Andy - +1 for Pete Cox (Tom) for diff rebuild - also worth checking your ratio whilst you are at it as now is the time to change it, if it needs it - if youyr car was an original US import, it will probably have a 3.7 ratio as opposed to the UK cars with a 3.45 - the latter will give nicer cruising capability  but at the expense of a slight drop in acceleration.

However, you said at the start of the post that the diff whine was noticeable in first gear - normally if a diff is whining, it will be apparent in all gears once it gets up to the rotational speed where it whines, so not just 1st gear - bear in mind 1st gears are typically more noisy than the other gears.

Hope this helps

Cheers Rich 

A noticeable whine in first gear is often a sign that the gear box layshaft bearings are on the way out. If the whine goes when in fourth gear? that is definitely the case. If you have to remove the box have ORS do their layshaft mod as per the Stag. If this is the case do not leave a TR whining gearbox as if the needle rollers start to come out and fly around your box they will wreck your box and it will be ££££ to fix.

Bruce.

[PodOne]

Hi Bruce

I think I'd be very disappointed if it was the gearbox which has been completely rebuilt to stag spec.

On balance it's more likely me not having driven another TR6 to compare and a heavy right foot! She is otherwise quite in all other gears.

Andy

[openroad]

Well done Andy , I bet you are well chuffed, it's been a while.  !

Conrad.

[PodOne]

11 hours ago, openroad said:

Well done Andy , I bet you are well chuffed, it's been a while.  !

Conrad.

Thanks Conrad 

It has 

[david ferry]

Andy,

Great result. You really should be chuffed to bits!

Were it mine, I’d do a complete spanner check to tighten, back to spec, anything that’s decided to come loose. 

David

[PodOne]

Hi Folks

Being so cold in the garage and busy at work I've just got around to going in there today and was greeted with a strong smell of fuel and a puddle. Sugar!

So jacked the front end expecting a loose pipe fitting but no the fuel seems to be coming from the bottom of the metering unit below the black plastic side cover - see pics. The injector pipe unions are all dry. Not having a lot of luck with this area of the car!

Any PI experts have an idea of what's failed ? Again it's only done 500 miles following a complete refurb.

 On a brighter note on pulling the plugs they don't look too bad perhaps 3 & 4 look a bit richer. What do others think?

Thanks

Andy

[John L]

Its usually this seal on the inside of the MU, but be sure you get a vital one,  https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=519870V but may be available many suppliers. Its easy enough to change, but mat be best to take the MU off.

John

[PodOne]

hi John

Bit disappointed its only lasted 500 miles it was totally re-conditioned late 2017 and fitted this year. I wonder if a non Viton seal was used. Chris's offering is out of stock.

Andy

[Mike C]

Probably your MU fuelling diaphragm. About 5 years ago I installed a new one from one of the major UK suppliers and it failed over lunchtime. Everything tested out OK with the PI system and engine starting  before lunch, came out after lunch for a road test  and fuel was dripping from the MU bleed hole. The engine wouldn't start and the plugs were soaked with petrol.

The problem is that the UK diaphragm was not Viton , and when exposed to Australian high octane unleaded fuels it swelled , the centre hole enlarged , causing leakage around the shaft.

To put it mildly, I was somewhat upset. The diaphragm had cost in the region of $A150 to airfreight to Australia, and we all know how much effort goes into repairing any MU problems  and  then replacing/retiming the unit.

[Waldi]

Hi Mike,
Your bad experience make me wonder what quality your membrane was made of. I know a car (and there must be many) of which the MU has not been touched for 2 decades. And without issues.

Or were MU membranes already made from Viton-B by then?

Waldi

[Mike C]

1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Hi Mike,
Your bad experience make me wonder what quality your membrane was made of. I know a car (and there must be many) of which the MU has not been touched for 2 decades. And without issues.

Or were MU membranes already made from Viton-B by then?

Waldi

Hi Waldi,

I reckon the diaphragm the UK specialist supplied me was made of nitrile rubber.  To most people it's hard to tell the difference between nitrile and viton rubbers, especially as the QA systems  used by  replacement TR6 component suppliers are fairly primitive.

After this experience I gave up on trusting the usual TR suppliers for critical elastomers. To make sure I had all viton  elastomers installed I bundled up the MU and injectors and sent them to a specialist, who I knew used only viton, for rebuilding and recalibration.

I don't know if viton elastomers were used in TR6 PI systems 20 years ago. Certainly viton gaskets and O rings have been used in the petrochem industry for probably 60 years- the RAAF were using it when I started working on their refuelling systems in 1972.

 

 

[Andy Moltu]

Would the diaphragm cause a leak of fuel. Isn't it functioning as bellows to use the manifold vacuum to work on the springs that regulate the fuel metering.

Simple checks before removing the metering unit. Check the fuel return pipe Isn't obstructed and check the fuel pressure Isn't too high.

[Waldi]

1 hour ago, Mike C said:

 

I don't know if viton elastomers were used in TR6 PI systems 20 years ago. Certainly viton gaskets and O rings have been used in the petrochem industry for probably 60 years- the RAAF were using it when I started working on their refuelling systems in 1972.

 

 

Hi Mike,

I guess only some specialists know the answer to when the Viton membranes became “the standard“ .

But since you were supplied with a nitrile item some 5 years ago, it makes you wonder….

Waldi

[Mike C]

33 minutes ago, Waldi said:

Hi Mike,

I guess only some specialists know the answer to when the Viton membranes became “the standard“ .

But since you were supplied with a nitrile item some 5 years ago, it makes you wonder….

Waldi

Hi Waldi,

When I bought that part years ago there was little mention of elastomer composition. Some vendors were even selling genuine Lucas original parts- which would have been some kind of aged nitrile.

When the part from the UK supplier failed I decided to look around for something better for the application than nitrile- and from previous experience I knew that Viton was much better-so I looked around for someone that used Viton.

Edited December 11, 2023 by Mike C

[Waldi]

When I had my MU reconditioned by Neil Ferguson, early 2017, I new about the availability of rubber parts in both nitrile (NBR) and Viton quality (grade) so when I double checked, Neil confirmed to me he used Viton. 
My car was recommissioned in 2020, and so far no issues with the rubber parts.

Waldi