Rear axle wheel stud

[adriantr4]

Hello

I'm doing some work on my '4, and on removing the rear wheels I noticed that a wheel stud (ie: what the wheel nuts screw on to) is loose. I can rotate it about an eighth turn easily by hand.

I can't remember how they are attached to the hub (reverse threads?) I assume the half-shaft needs to be pulled?

Thanks, Adrian 

 

 

[TR4Tony VC]

Hi Adrian

these studs are splined to stop rotation, so the solution is to weld them to the hub to stop this, but check all of them as usually there is a reason for rotation (and ultimately pull through). You may have to weld all four … I’d do both sides if I were you.

have you had your tyres changed by a garage that uses air wrenches to take the wheel studs off. This is in my experience the usual cause.

regards Tony 

[Lebro]

On a TR3 the front studs are splined, but the rear ones are screwed in (normal RH thread), & peened over. I would have thought it would be the same on a 4 ?

Bob

Edited November 12, 2023 by Lebro

[adriantr4]

Thanks for the input, I'll investigate but other things to address first.

[Chilliman]

On 11/12/2023 at 10:18 PM, Lebro said:

On a TR3 the front studs are splined, but the rear ones are screwed in (normal RH thread), & peened over. I would have thought it would be the same on a 4 ?

Bob

It is

[david ferry]

Adrian,

The studs on half shafts will originally have been screwed in and peened over on the back to hold them tight. This can/often does fail.

To solve your problem in the simplest way, this is what you need.

https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1385/name/stud-wheel-repair-tr2-4

David

 

[Lebro]

Or do what I did which was to drill out the threads to take the splined type of stud used on the front.

Bob

[Charlie D]

57 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Or do what I did which was to drill out the threads to take the splined type of stud used on the front.

Bob,

Doing it that way seems sensible. I wonder why Triumph didn't do that in the first place.

Can you get the new stud in from behind without having to pull the axle or is it too long??

Charlie.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

6 hours ago, david ferry said:

Adrian,

The studs on half shafts will originally have been screwed in and peened over on the back to hold them tight. This can/often does fail.

To solve your problem in the simplest way, this is what you need.

https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1385/name/stud-wheel-repair-tr2-4

David

 

If you go that route the tap is stated as M12 x 1.25   Get them here  https://www.tracytools.com/product/12-x-125-metric/

Edited November 29, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Lebro]

1 hour ago, Charlie D said:

Bob,

Doing it that way seems sensible. I wonder why Triumph didn't do that in the first place.

Can you get the new stud in from behind without having to pull the axle or is it too long??

Charlie.

Probably not, but I had my hubs off anyway, to change the oil seal. 

Bob

[Charlie D]

Thanks for the reply

[james christie]

Been there, done that, didn’t get the T shirt as I didn’t finish the job.

I had three of these screw in studs come loose and managed to extract them without too much hassle - they hadn’t been peened over very well over on the inside.

I replaced them with splined 42mm studs from Cambridge Motor Services, which can be fitted without removing the half shaft. The remains of the threaded hole in the hub will need to be drilled out and cleaned up first. A small amount of the mushroom head will need to be ground off to allow the stud to sit properly - there is a shoulder on the inside of hub.

I didn’t finish the job as grinding off the peening on the remaining studs, requires the half shaft to be removed to make the job easier. So things are on hold until I have to remove the half shafts to do something else.

There is a thread somewhere in the sidescreen forum. 
 

james

Edited November 29, 2023 by james christie

[stuart]

1 hour ago, james christie said:

Been there, done that, didn’t get the T shirt as I didn’t finish the job.

I had three of these screw in studs come loose and managed to extract them without too much hassle - they hadn’t been peened over very well over on the inside.

I replaced them with splined 42mm studs from Cambridge Motor Services, which can be fitted without removing the half shaft. The remains of the threaded hole in the hub will need to be drilled out and cleaned up first. A small amount of the mushroom head will need to be ground off to allow the stud to sit properly - there is a shoulder on the inside of hub.

I didn’t finish the job as grinding off the peening on the remaining studs, requires the half shaft to be removed to make the job easier. So things are on hold until I have to remove the half shafts to do something else.

There is a thread somewhere in the sidescreen forum. 
 

james

Thats the same way I did mine on my Girling axle 4a but I did the whole lot at the same time as changing to 10" Alfins so had the shafts out on the bench. Well worth the effort.

Stuart.

[adriantr4]

Hello

After a pause I am now looking at fixing my loose rear wheel stud. As was discussed, I can confirm that on a '4 the rear wheel stud 100869 is threaded, while the front hub 114282 is splined.

I have tightened it and it seems ok. My plan is to pull the half-shaft, re-peen it then a touch of weld?

Any thoughts? I don't really want to go down the route of drilling out/replacing, or oversized studs (Revington's method)

Thanks, Adrian

 

 

[RogerH]

Hi Adrian,

          if you are going to weld it does it need peening.

 

Roger

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

10 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Adrian,

          if you are going to weld it does it need peening.

 

Roger

Probably not but belt and braces….

Not too easy to peen all the sticking through bit of stud without taking the flange off the half shaft.  It is a two person job to hold the half shaft and flange assy vertical on the anvil whilst aiming the hammer’s pein at the back of the flange/stud and not mullering the bearing housing.

  I’d blob a bit of MIG on it too.

[stuart]

But do make sure to clean off the back of the stud thoroughly as they were blacked from new and Ive seen them where they have been welded unsuccessfully.

Stuart.

[Nigel C]

On 11/29/2023 at 7:39 AM, Lebro said:

Or do what I did which was to drill out the threads to take the splined type of stud used on the front.

Bob

+1!

[adriantr4]

Hi

An example of a welded stud. Thanks to all posters.

Adrian