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3 hours ago, Mastaphixa said:

Have you tried removing the close out panel between the engine and transmission on the bottom of the engine?  If it is warped the bolts for the flywheel can make contact with that panel and it makes a most unnerving sound.  Ask me how I know.

I didn't knew or forgot that a "clutch housing" existed on my car, I will look at.

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1 hour ago, Michel Higuet said:

I didn't knew or forgot that a "clutch housing" existed on my car, I will look at.

Yeah, this is a regular source of fun and anxiety.

If you put the small tin quadrent piece on backwards with the impressions pointing inwards towards the flywhee,l when you depress the clutch and the crank moves forward the 5 thou of it's end float allows the flywheel to rub the tin. Try running the engine and depress the clutch if you get the chicken wire dragging over a tin roof noise almost certain it's this tin. Good news is it's 10 mins with a spanner, reverse the tin gearbox housing closer, no gasket or sealer necessary and you can do it easily from underneath.

Mick Richards

  

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On 9/26/2023 at 3:51 PM, Michel Higuet said:

The oil slinger is in the right position but not enlocated, no key there to located. The sound doesn't seems located to the front or rear. Caution with "it's seems ".

My mistake Michael, I was thinking of my 6cyl TR engine. Your timing chain looks to a little stretched though.

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Years ago I made some videos about worn and new chain and chain tensior.

Please see here on YouTube, worn chain and broken tensior 

With new tensior and new IWIS (Germany) chain 

Test 13,000 km later

Knowing this, and lucky still having the fan extension :lol:,

it is very easy to test the chain any time you want in a few seconds.

Each chain needs some play, otherwise it makes itself the play very fast.

Ciao, Marco 

edit, short test before office: chain is still good

Edited by Z320
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OK The heater motor is running, fill the coolant and a little drop of coolant was regularly falling, the lower hose need to be replaced. I let the motor run not for long, still had the noise then disappeared, not much time to use the stethoscope ( but a useful instrument, nothing to compare with a screwdriver ). Not much place for the hoses in this car.

Ok now I wait for the arrival of the lower hose.

What are the basic reasons of my problems? I bought a 50 years old car, It's an English one and I am masochist... :-)

 

 

 

 

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I am not familiar with narrow belt conversions but your crank pulley bolt looks a bit weird, like its not really engaged completely and is that a crack in the spacer ? behind it or is that meant to be there ?

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1 hour ago, Kiwifrog said:

I am not familiar with narrow belt conversions but your crank pulley bolt looks a bit weird, like its not really engaged completely and is that a crack in the spacer ? behind it or is that meant to be there ?

Home made, the original bolt was of course much to long and the thread of the screw is "English" so a neighbor did it for me at his factory (unlike the rich, the poor are used to helping each other :-) ) there is first a single spacer and then a Grower spacer. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

It is not that the screeching sound is solved and I forgot to give the final news NO it is still there. The sound appears and disappears, Yesterday a sudden problem with the front carburettor butterfly valve, but in order now.

With the stethoscope I can not locate the sound, the best place to ears the sound is central above the inlet and exhaust, it is not a ticking not a knocking it is a screeching and  can disappears per moments.

I will check the frequency variation of the screeching with the RPM of the motor. I will lend the ears of my women too. enregister the sound again.

If have followed all the checks you told me. I have found a lot a little problems but not the good one.

 

 

 

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I was always thinking is there was maybe the sound was relate to the head gasket, yesterday I was surprise there was a white smoke of the exhaust but I had to stop to check the problem with the front carburettor, this morning I received directly the confirmation. Still the cooling was at level and no leak on the water pump ( the habitual culprit ) oil pressure always round 70. I had just empty/replaced the coolant because I repaired the heater motor. Before that I had the screech but no white smoke. 

first think to do to head must be cold dead, hope it is only the head gasket ( what method to check for cracks? )

 

50 years I crawled to an Opel agency with my Opel Ascona, don't do but check the problem. Came back in the evening, well we check the compression, it is not good we propose to remove the head...
I asked the "specialist":
Compression bad on the 4 cylinder? No only 2
Low or very low? very low almost 0
Cylinders side by side? Yes 2 and 3
Could be the head gasket, a gap between 2 and 3? I don't now...

I crawled home and the next morning I replaced myself the head gasket destroyed between cylinders 2 and 3 ...

Screenshot (464).png

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You say you repaired the heater motor - could it be the heater fan somehow intermittently catching the casing or something inside the  casing occasionally catching the fan, or indeed the heater motor itself - I've heard the motor screech before with a dryish bearing which I managed to cure by spraying in some WD40 whilst motor was running?

Cheers Rich

Edited by rcreweread
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21 hours ago, rcreweread said:

You say you repaired the heater motor - could it be the heater fan somehow intermittently catching the casing or something inside the  casing occasionally catching the fan, or indeed the heater motor itself - I've heard the motor screech before with a dryish bearing which I managed to cure by spraying in some WD40 whilst motor was running?

Cheers Rich

The heather fan normally can not catch the casing, it is not a bearing but a simple bushing, You can't access the motor without removing the complete casing.

Edited by Michel Higuet
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The heater fan bushing can cause a serious worrying noise,

If the bush wears the the spindle vibrates in the bush.  Once spinning noiselessly it will continue to do so until turned ON again.

The heater is relatively easy to remove.

Just do it.

 

Roger

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Today I re-tight the head bolds to 105 lb/s  I read here that something to try before removing the head. Most of the nuts are upside-down ( I did that 25 years ago ) I suppose it is to late to reverse them one by one.

A pic of the sparkplugs the problem is/was on cylinder #2... 

If by miracle test  OK   Still the screech? :-)

 

 

 

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Hi Michel,

Newbie advice here, by accident i'm also in Belgium, same car same colour :) 

I did listen to the recording a few times, sounds very much like a scrapping sound not internal to the engine but what do i know?  We can rule out water pump, alternator, timing chain and tensioner from what you have done.  The fan for the heater is easy enough to eliminate if you make sure it is not running. So you are left with the clutch housing?

Maybe a stupid idea but could the starter not disengage enough and touch the fly wheel? you said the sound was more on the inlet/exhaust side and it is on the side down under.

Regards,

Laurent

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Hi Michel

On your second photo it shows the alternator which you say you have changed. However between the pulley and the alternator is a metal 'fan' to keep the alternator cool. The sound track sounds like something spinning and catching on something and then goes less noisy. The metal fan disc should be tight. If it is loose then it will start to spin (noisy) and then catch up with the speed of the alternator and go quieter. On the dynamo system there is a woodruff key on the pulley shaft and the fan plate has a slot that engages with the key to stop it spinning separately to the shaft. Not familiar with the alternator but there should be something similar. If you can turn or move the fan plate separate to the pulley then that could be the problem. Maybe the slot in the alternator fan plate is worn or more likely the woodruff key is missing.

Keith

 

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5 hours ago, Lo100469 said:

Hi Michel,

Newbie advice here, by accident i'm also in Belgium, same car same colour :) 

I did listen to the recording a few times, sounds very much like a scrapping sound not internal to the engine but what do i know?  We can rule out water pump, alternator, timing chain and tensioner from what you have done.  The fan for the heater is easy enough to eliminate if you make sure it is not running. So you are left with the clutch housing?

Maybe a stupid idea but could the starter not disengage enough and touch the fly wheel? you said the sound was more on the inlet/exhaust side and it is on the side down under.

Regards,

Laurent

Yes it was absolutly not a stupid idea on the contrary, nice deduction with all the clues...

Of course logically no reason tight the head and hope the screech will gone... But rebuilding this afternoon for the test of the white smoke I found this! Why after 25 years the starter motor decided to have a life of it's own I don't know...

 

 

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