Westy Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 So, here is my TR4A in the garage having the rear half-shafts replaced. While the wheels were off, I noticed that the top shock absorber bracket on both sides are bent upwards and cracked. I don't honestly know how long it has been like this but how could that happen? If the springs are taking the load and the dampers are, well, just damping then my simple thinking would assume that load on the dampers is quite low. I fitted these dampers about 8 years ago and don't remember the old ones seizing - is that possible? I'd assume that they'd lose pressure with any leakage and become softer, not harder. Any ideas anyone? IMG_5419.HEIC IMG_5417.HEIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 Wrong length dampers, bottoming out before the suspension bump-stops do ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 Shock reachin Just now, RobH said: Wrong length dampers, bottoming out before the suspension bump-stops do ? Just what I was about to type, can't really see how else you could get the force at that point? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 13, 2022 Report Share Posted October 13, 2022 9 minutes ago, RobH said: Wrong length dampers, bottoming out before the suspension bump-stops do ? Absolutely, surprised you havent broken the ends off the trailing arms! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 I think in fact you have had luck, no damage to the training arms (have you inspected that area?) If you want to keep telescopic dampers, fit the correct mounting bracket kit and correct length dampers. The dampers should NOT limit upwards movement. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 Hi, I would use a different model to, bearing all forces on the frame and not in the car body. Personally I kicked out the telescopic shock absorbers fitted by the PO and went back to original lever absorbers. I‘m very pleased about that. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 Westy - if you want to revert back to lever arms, I can help with uprated, reconditioned units Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Westy Posted October 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 Thanks all - makes sense. Will probably take this opportunity to revert to lever arm dampers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 A few of us have gone back to Lever arms in NLG (North London Group). I ran a trick set up around eight years but discovered hairline cracks on the spring bridge. I then welded the cracks up and went back to original lever arms slightly uprated by 17%. Even my better half noticed that the ride was better! Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 As I understand it telescopic conversions were only introduced due to the lack of availability of new lever arms rather than as an upgrade. Recon lever arms are now available together with adjustable valve cartridges so that would seem to be the best option. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jtex60easy Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 I think if you follow the path that Harry has taken, you will have chosen well. In my part of the world, the current crop of new lever arms is so poor that rebuilders will not accept them as cores for rebuilds of originals. The lever arms can be dialed in to where you want them with or without a shock dyno. As you probably know, some IRS cars have had their rear springs replaced with something stiffer; part of your full solution might be considering how good a partner your springs are with your revised shocks. James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Westy Posted October 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 Thanks Harry. Good to know. If I still lived in Hemel Hempstead, I'd probably have joined the NLG for a pint in Chipperfield! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Westy Posted October 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 James - I found a receipt for a couple of rear uprated springs (TT4216) from Moss in my files just before I bought the car in 2011. I think they lower the ride height by about 1" and I assume are slightly stiffer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 5 hours ago, Drewmotty said: As I understand it telescopic conversions were only introduced due to the lack of availability of new lever arms rather than as an upgrade. Recon lever arms are now available together with adjustable valve cartridges so that would seem to be the best option. Hi Andrew, please advice. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 36 minutes ago, iain said: Hi Andrew, please advice. Iain https://ajbengineering.com/products/armstrong-lever-arm-adjustable-damper-valves/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jtex60easy Posted October 14, 2022 Report Share Posted October 14, 2022 Westy, that is good work digging that out. It is evident that you do not have the “Filing from Hell” program I adopted many years ago. Moss.UK has another part number or two listed presently, so I do not know if they can shed light on your present springs or not. Just make sure that the spring you use does not allow the lever arm beyond its designed arc from compression to extension. I will defer to others here to address what has worked well for them. Nevertheless, the lever arm will give no surprises as to the span of its arc. Better days are ahead of you. James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted October 15, 2022 Report Share Posted October 15, 2022 Westy, I do not recognise those rear springs from Moss as they are usually in black. I had to change Moss rear springs till I got the ride height right on my then Concours TR5. Regarding the rear hubs and driveshafts the perceived wisdom is to fit Classic Car Developments CVV driveshafts and hubs as the originals have had their day(hubs) and certainly not expected to last this long. Look it up and it might frighten you. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 16, 2022 Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 On 10/15/2022 at 10:03 AM, harrytr5 said: Westy, I do not recognise those rear springs from Moss as they are usually in black. I had to change Moss rear springs till I got the ride height right on my then Concours TR5. Regarding the rear hubs and driveshafts the perceived wisdom is to fit Classic Car Developments CVV driveshafts and hubs as the originals have had their day(hubs) and certainly not expected to last this long. Look it up and it might frighten you. Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Or fit these hubs with uprated shafts https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/fast-road-race-rear-hub-assembly-tr4a-6/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted October 16, 2022 Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 Yes I had those Stuart and very rebuidable using Timken bearings. In the floods of 2007 or there abouts the excess floods we went through washed the bearings out and I had to change them. Then CVV joints and new hubs came along and I changed to those. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted October 16, 2022 Report Share Posted October 16, 2022 Very pleased so far with my Classic Driving Development CV conversion fitted earlier this year. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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