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About Westy

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  • Location
    Beautiful heritage City of Bath
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph Spitfire MkIII, Triumph Spitfire MkIV, Triumph TR6, Triumph TR4A

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  1. Hi, Just thought I'd update you all as I know you're simply dying to know on my success or otherwise. I went through MKTR's checklist and got to the third item to discover that when I depressed the follower screws with my fingers away from the cams and then operated the choke - lo and behold the choke worked smoothly with no sticking. It turned out that one of the clamping screws was loose on the throttle spindle (top right in first photo) and had slipped around so that when operating the choke, the cam was attempting to open the throttle from the "get go" (as our fellow American friends like
  2. Thanks everyone. I am going to have another look at it over the weekend armed with all your advice and suggestions. On a separate note, I ran the car out to Babington House from Bath tonight (no, I am not a member) and had forgotten how much fun it is to drive at night especially on a summer's evening. Is it my imagination or do the cars breathe more easily when the air is warm and a little moist?
  3. OK thanks all - I can sleep easy now. I hate not knowing...
  4. I have been clearing out a few old boxes of bits and came across these bushes. Problem is, I have no idea what they are. As I have owned a couple of TR6s, Spitfires and more lately a TR4A, I am scratching my head wondering when/why I bought them. If it helps, the bolt is a 0.5" UNF and 3" long. The length of the round tube is 1.5". They look like black poly bushes. Perhaps for rear trailing arms? Does anyone recognise them?
  5. Mmmm....Thanks Roger but it's not the cable as that operates smoothly enough. Badhuis - I did have a look underneath the carbs and watched the lever as I manually operated the choke but I still get the stickiness before the lever starts to pull on the needle (which it does about half way through its arc). So I guess it might be friction between the rotating shaft and sleeve or between the shaft and other bits of the mechanism - but seems strange that it has two distinct sticking points (choke fully out, choke half way). I guess there's only one way to find out. I'm going in....
  6. Having managed to successfully sort a few nagging issues with my TR4A (fuel supply, electric fan and overdrive) and now feeling pretty smug with myself, I thought I'd push my luck and try and fix the last remaining issue of a sticky choke mechanism. I have always had to start the car with a good inch of choke but when I push the choke back in, the choke mechanism doesn't return fully without me getting out of the car, lifting up the bonnet and giving it a bit of manual assistance. It's something I have learned to live with, but it's a bit annoying. So I first tried lubricating the moving parts
  7. OK, got it. Couldn't quite figure out why I had one piece of 5/16" ID rubber pipe being used to meet 5/16" OD copper pipe from pump at one end and 1/4" OD connector at first carb. So, I'll swap 5/16" pipe from pump to carbs for 1/4". Beginning to feel like the Danny Kaye, pellet with the poison sketch there for a moment! Thanks again.
  8. Ah..I see. Makes sense - thanks Roger! P.S. Do you get a gold TR badge when you hit 25,000 posts?!
  9. The copper fuel pipe on my TR4A is 1/4" OD between the carbs but 5/16" leading up to them. Does anyone know if this is usual? Does it even matter? What size should the pipe be? I am in the process of checking and replacing the fuel lines and pump to surtout an issue with fuel supply. Thanks!
  10. Curious but your first post and description of symptoms is almost identical to mine "Starting / ignition / starter motor problem?". Not poor connections in my case, just a new battery needed.
  11. Well, Rog and Mike were right. Although I recharged the battery using an Optimate 6 smart charger and it showed 12V on the multimeter, it didn't have enough grunt (Amps) to make any difference. I bought a classic Lincon battery (model 291/11 - a thing of beauty, only company in the UK still making batteries) delivered dry, filled with acid supplied and charged in 3-4 hours using the same Optimate charger - bingo! All is well with the world. Thanks to all.
  12. OK, thanks - will give that a go and let you know how I get on.
  13. I have 12V at the battery terminals. I'll check Ignition switch as Roger suggests. If not the switch, how do I unjam the starter motor? Hit with a copper hammer?
  14. Hi all, I've been absent for a while but then my TR4A has been reliable - until now that is. I dropped my son at cricket, came back, parked outside the garage, switched off the ignition, opened the garage doors and turned the key to start the engine and nothing. Well, a click noise but the engine didn't fire into life. Ignition switch feels OK, red light comes on, goes a bit faint when I turn to position 3. I think it could be the ignition switch or the solenoid on my WOSP hi-torque starter motor. Any ideas anyone?
  15. Thanks. Just pulled Enginuity's invoice - they replaced with EP80W90 in Sept 2011 so will try topping up with same. What does GL4 mean?
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