boxofbits Posted August 8, 2022 Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 (edited) Hi Guys Hope you’re all well. Checking over the 4a prior to a long run, I’ve noticed some vertical movement on the metal splines to the coupling which connects to the rack. The part that’s probably worn is coupling 156270 and its at the end of its tightness - only a 1/4” bolt! None of the usuals have any stock, BUT I have noticed Revington have a lower half column assembly with a UJ out to replace the whole lot, bit like the MkII RS Escort long stem rack. I don’t really want to go for a SH coupling unless they’re proven low mileage. So, there’s a couple of options. I DO have a used Mk2 Escort coupling and I know the spline size/ diameter is identical so it will fit. Having said I won’t go SH the splines on one coupling look excellent. Also, they used to cut an extra groove in the coupling to allow it to close up better, as opposed to the original Triumph affair. It also has a 5/16” bolt. So I could salvage this coupling by cutting the rivets off. So, question is, is the coupling available anywhere new or is the Revington complete column/ coupling the way to go? Has anyone fitted one of these? https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3634-ak/name/steering-shaft-tr4-4a Answers appreciated. Thanks Kevin Edited August 8, 2022 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 8, 2022 Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 The usual trick is to complete the cut in the clamp properly so it clamps up properly, theres a fair few posts on here showing how to do it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 8, 2022 Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 See here (Roger seems to be out?) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 Thanks for replies, and images appreciated. It looks like Ford inserted a wide cut at 90 degrees to the gap to allow the legs of the coupling to close up evenly. I guess the mod as shown in the photos achieves a similar result, though the Ford example might give a bit more flexibility overall do you think? No matter how much you tighten in the below image I doubt you’ll change the shape at the bottom end of the coupling, as for one thing it’s a long way from the bolt? Your thoughts.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 8, 2022 Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 (edited) The Revington kit looks to be a good item. Couple of other options. 1. Use the Escort one you have. Nice item with the fail safe strap. 2. Strip it for its couplings and fit them. Hoping the bolt spacing is same as TR donut. 3. Rebuild the escort coupling with a Superflex kit. https://www.burtonpower.com/steering-coupling-repair-kit-escort-mk1-mk2-sf1159k.html 4. Dispense with the rubber coupling and fit a UJ complete. https://www.burtonpower.com/grp4-steering-coupling-gp4-ford-escort-mk1-mk2-cast-type-mp1199.html ( Moss 143577 is the identical TR 6 version.) Cheers Peter W PS We used to sell the hell out of the escort coupling assembly for TR owners as it was retail cheaper than one 156270 splined coupling. Plus you got a spare coupling and the rubber bit! The coupling is also used on Marina Vans. Lots of luck finding a good used one of those! Edited August 8, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 8, 2022 Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 31 minutes ago, boxofbits said: Thanks for replies, and images appreciated. It looks like Ford inserted a wide cut at 90 degrees to the gap to allow the legs of the coupling to close up evenly. I guess the mod as shown in the photos achieves a similar result, though the Ford example might give a bit more flexibility overall do you think? No matter how much you tighten in the below image I doubt you’ll change the shape at the bottom end of the coupling, as for one thing it’s a long way from the bolt? Your thoughts.. This cut changes everything, otherways I would not recommend this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 8, 2022 Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 Hi Kev, don't panic. What Marco shows is the way to go. A simple hacksaw cut. I used a milling cutter as I like to use my mill. You only need to cut one side of the clamp but do make sure you get through ALL the metal obstructions. See my pic for the shiny bits Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted August 8, 2022 Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 Kevin - I have some refurbished used ones which have been modified as above and then plated - will be taking them to Ambergate - £20 each PM me if interested cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 8, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2022 As always, thanks to all for those super detailed ideas and good answers. I’m doing the 10CR and know it involves a lot of mountainous twists and turns. I’m gonna need my steering in good shape. I do not want a ‘hang on lads, I’ve got an idea’ moment! Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 Hi Kevin, it's worth swapping out the bolts for hi tensile cap head (Allen key) ones, easier to get the clamps really tight in the limited access area, .... hardened washers and phildas nuts also needed. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 16 hours ago, rcreweread said: Kevin - I have some refurbished used ones which have been modified as above and then plated - will be taking them to Ambergate - £20 each PM me if interested cheers Rich Here are some photos of the finished articles. I also have the rubber couplings, plated steering columns and refurbished upper clamps - I will be taking all these parts to Ambergate Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 1 hour ago, rcreweread said: Here are some photos of the finished articles. I also have the rubber couplings, plated steering columns and refurbished upper clamps - I will be taking all these parts to Ambergate Cheers Rich They need these. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 Kevin, you could try www. rallydesign.co.uk for the Escort style forged U/J coupling. Very happy with that on my 4A and no sign of it ever working loose on the rack pinion. Good luck on the 10CR, I am very sorry to be missing it for the first time since 2003! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 Sort of a side question, what’s a good way to tell if the steering shaft splines are past it? I also modified the clamps as shown by Marco/Roger, but when I fitted them, I noticed the splines on the upper shaft looked a bit mangled. jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 Hi Jim, it would take a great deal of force to strip the splines. Just Make sure that the clamps are tight. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 3 hours ago, Tr4aJim said: Sort of a side question, what’s a good way to tell if the steering shaft splines are past it? I also modified the clamps as shown by Marco/Roger, but when I fitted them, I noticed the splines on the upper shaft looked a bit mangled. jim Hi Jim If they’re like mine you cannot physically tighten the bolt any further without snapping it. The lateral forces eventually wear down the splines. It’s only meant to be a pinch-bolt anyway. I checked mine with a magnifying glass and the splines have lost their ‘peaks’ and look mis-shapen and flattened, or mangled as you say. They're basically scrap. Thanks Rob, Rich and Peter. Those nice shiny newly plated couplings do look good, splines or no splines! Seriously, the splines look good. If I have no joy with the Escort one I’ll be in touch. (The Revington single column mod, designed and used by Neil Revington is also lurking in the corner of my mind. It does away with all those parts). Thanks Roger for the pic..looks very similar to the Escort one, except only one side cut through, but will work fine. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 4 hours ago, tim hunt said: Kevin, you could try www. rallydesign.co.uk for the Escort style forged U/J coupling. Very happy with that on my 4A and no sign of it ever working loose on the rack pinion. Good luck on the 10CR, I am very sorry to be missing it for the first time since 2003! Tim Thanks Tim, also a good solution. Is it the same as the one from Burton Performance Centre as shown in Pete’s post above? Pity you’re missing the 10CR btw. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 You want the Escort Mk1/2 Group 4 steering coupling as used by the rally boys. It eliminates the woolly imprecise feel from the lower OE rubber coupling and I do not notice any more road shock transmitted through the column, probably because I retained the upper rubber coupling which helps absorb it. I note that Car Builder Solutions do a nice forged coupling with 14mm (9/16") x 36 spline at both ends. Their part no. #UJF, shown on p42 of their catalogue Issue 35. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 I did similar on my TR4A. Rubber coupling on top (with modified clamps), and a metal TR6 coupling down at the rack. A benefit of this config with LHD TR4As is the smaller diameter metal joint, gives a bit more clearance near the lower radiator pipe. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 9, 2022 Report Share Posted August 9, 2022 Same I did for the same reason Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 10, 2022 Report Share Posted August 10, 2022 I have a solid mounted rack - no squidgy rubber blocks ! Many years ago I fitted the TR6-style universal joint to both top and bottom of my steering column. I have not noticed any problems arising from this. I have purchased Revington's column with the UJs fitted at both ends, and one of these days I shall fit it - but not an urgent job. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2022 (edited) Three options open to me in the end. The Escort coupling seemed in excellent condition and has a rubber damper. The original Triumph unit was worn but could be repaired with another coupling. However, when I removed the complete column the uppermost joint of the bottom coupling could be rocked slightly in all directions. And the bolt was tight. I realise they can be cut and re-tightened ,but that does not mean they are not worn. So, Tim advised a Group 4 Escort forged UJ coupling which I have purchased at a pretty reasonable price from Car Builder Solutions. It still has the top rubber doughnut as a vibration damper if needed. Kevin Edited August 13, 2022 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted August 13, 2022 Report Share Posted August 13, 2022 Kevin, just curious, it appears from the picture that the Escort rubber joint has a slightly smaller overall diameter than the original Triumph one. Is that correct? Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2022 7 minutes ago, Tr4aJim said: Kevin, just curious, it appears from the picture that the Escort rubber joint has a slightly smaller overall diameter than the original Triumph one. Is that correct? Jim Hi Jim That might be the case, though will not have any noticeable effect on performance I doubt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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