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I have a Bahstuck manifold and have aquired Jenvey style throttle bodies, bearing in mind I have, in effect, 6 separate inlet manifolds, how do I rig up a connection to the fuel pressure regulator?

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6 minutes ago, unclepete said:

I have a Bahstuck manifold and have aquired Jenvey style throttle bodies, bearing in mind I have, in effect, 6 separate inlet manifolds, how do I rig up a connection to the fuel pressure regulator?

you still need a fuelrail. or do you have the heritage ones? The fuelpressure regulator goes at the end of the fuel rail. Jenvey sells them too.

Edited by JochemsTR
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On 7/31/2022 at 8:21 PM, marki said:

Emerald were fantastic when I did my conversion about 5yrs ago, better fuel economy and an extra 20hp on the rolling rd.

I’m also running an idle air control valve, starts just like a modern. You don’t even have to get in when it’s cold to start it.

Hi Marki

I seem to be having a problem getting an answer to a question about retro EFI on a TR6. As you seem to have the setup closest to how I envisage mine ending up, I thought you may be able to help. I have a US TR6 CC car with a high compression head and a TR6 CP cam which I am running on Triple 40dcoe's with a Bahstuck manifold.

If I convert to EFI I would retain the Bahstuck Manifold and have aquired 3 Jenvey Throttle bodies. With a Fuel Pressure Regulator (all of which I have looked at have a Vacuum take off) which needs to be connected to the inlet manifold, somewhere near the injectors and after the throttle bodies? With the Bahstuck inlet manifold there is no inter connecting balance pipe, so I have, in effect, 6 individual inlet manifolds! Where on earth does the FPR vacuum pipe go???

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10 minutes ago, unclepete said:

Hi Marki

I seem to be having a problem getting an answer to a question about retro EFI on a TR6. As you seem to have the setup closest to how I envisage mine ending up, I thought you may be able to help. I have a US TR6 CC car with a high compression head and a TR6 CP cam which I am running on Triple 40dcoe's with a Bahstuck manifold.

If I convert to EFI I would retain the Bahstuck Manifold and have aquired 3 Jenvey Throttle bodies. With a Fuel Pressure Regulator (all of which I have looked at have a Vacuum take off) which needs to be connected to the inlet manifold, somewhere near the injectors and after the throttle bodies? With the Bahstuck inlet manifold there is no inter connecting balance pipe, so I have, in effect, 6 individual inlet manifolds! Where on earth does the FPR vacuum pipe go???

I joined them all together in a little manifold then took off a connection to the FPR and the ECU. If you just use one port the vacuum signal is very poor.

 

Edited by FatJon
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19 hours ago, FatJon said:

I joined them all together in a little manifold then took off a connection to the FPR and the ECU. If you just use one port the vacuum signal is very poor.

I did look at this as a solution but wouldn't you get bleed back through the other manifolds?

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4 hours ago, unclepete said:

I did look at this as a solution but wouldn't you get bleed back through the other manifolds?

No, not at all. The orifices are tiny. It’s the standard way of doing it. 

If you only use one runner you get vacuum as that cylinder induces and little/none for the rest of the cycle. It really hammers the regulator diaphragm and makes it very hard for the ecu to get a reliable reading too. Been there before!

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, FatJon said:

Not sure if the link will work

Worked fine Jon.

On 12/21/2022 at 2:50 PM, FatJon said:

I joined them all together in a little manifold then took off a connection to the FPR and the ECU

When you say ECU do you mean the MAP sensor?

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On 12/21/2022 at 2:50 PM, FatJon said:

If you just use one port the vacuum signal is very poor.

Likewise the Brake Servo? With the Bahstuck manifold there is only 1 takeoff for the Brake Servo, I have a suspicion this has been giving me problems with braking?

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2 hours ago, unclepete said:

Likewise the Brake Servo? With the Bahstuck manifold there is only 1 takeoff for the Brake Servo, I have a suspicion this has been giving me problems with braking?

not a problem for the servo. It has a one way valve so each “suck” lowers the vacuum but it does not fill back up when the vacuum stops until the next induction. This means the servo does not get hammered like the regulator does.

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Hello ,
with 6 individual flaps 280+ degrees camshaft and it is worth considering working with an air mass meter.
The sharp camshafts provide far too little vacuum to regulate. The result is a signal that is very difficult to handle.

Many greetings
Ralph

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2 hours ago, Schnippel said:

with 6 individual flaps 280+ degrees camshaft and it is worth considering working with an air mass meter.
The sharp camshafts provide far too little vacuum to regulate. The result is a signal that is very difficult to handle.

Hi Ralph

Lost something in translation?

Peter

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On 7/29/2022 at 9:49 AM, Andrew Smith said:

Thanks folks,

On a standard 150 cam which seems (seemed) to suit the Emerald system - found this article from 2012 although technology and experience will have moved on : https://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/apr2012/ 

Cheers, Andrew

 

In my view the problem is finding someone who will take my car in and fit a kit of parts that are known to work straight away. A friend of mine fitted Emerald EFI to a K series engine and it took about 18 months before all the gremlins were ironed out! To me his car was used a development car? Which was a surprise to me as the K series engine is a very common one to do!

Bruce.

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I am just done fitting an Ecumaster Black EFI System on a customer's car.

Wenn engine is done, and the manifolds are modified, it takes me about 45 hours for Fuel, Ignition, Electrical, Wiring and routing of Wires. This is ofcourse without running and fine-tuning of the base-map.

Edited by JochemsTR
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1 hour ago, jr2 said:

Hello, remind us, why did you end up with ECUmaster control unit?  Its price point is on part with other systems.

here in germany , MS and Ecumaster are well available. My seller has both of them and advised on Ecumaster. Ecumaster is a professional device, superior to MS. Housing and connectors meet all IP and EMC requirements. Software is included with all its options and programmable safety features and easy to use. Feel free to compare the ECUs yourself. I am glad I followed his advise and happy ever since.

This is my personal opinion. Nothing more, nothing less. I know there are lots out there being fully satisfied with MS and Emerald. I even had my test setup running with Speeduino. Does the job too. Like MS, these are DIY ECUs. When a customer wants MS, I install MS. When a customer asks for my recommendation, I recommend Ecumaster.

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15 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:

Slight deviation, but why would you fit Emerald injection to a K series engine when many would already have been injected?  

Interesting question. I converted an MG midget to k series power a few years back. You are correct it already runs efi as standard. You can use the Rover efi which is what I did. However there is limited scope for tuning. Others have converted to emerald which is pretty simple and gives you more scope to tweak. 

Tim

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