Phil H 4 Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 Having got the old girl up on stands to gives the brakes a once as the level in the reservoir had dropped, and not knowing when the fluid was last changed. A few more gremlins started to turn up. The fluid in the reservoir was quite dark tea coloured so looked as if a change was due however the colour of the brake fluid was much lighter when bleeding, but there appeared to be oil droplets or similar in the fluid as shown in the picture of the bleed pipe. Having only had the car a couple of years I'm wondering what brake fluid had been used. So first question. If I flush the system with I understand methylated spirit, am i best to do this by pressurising the system and do I then flush through with new fluid say twice ? The fluid loss appears to be at the junction between the servo housing and the master cylinder. No other leaks are visible. Should there be a gasket between the two surfaces and is the notch out of the master cylinder meant to be there or is this damage. Any suggestions appreciated. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Green 54 Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 Hi Phil, The notch is normal. I don't think there is a gasket because there should be nothing to seal. Your problem is that you have brake fluid leaking from the back of the master cylinder. So it either needs replacing or refurbishing with a seal kit. Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 9 hours ago, Richard Green 54 said: Hi Phil, The notch is normal. I don't think there is a gasket because there should be nothing to seal. Your problem is that you have brake fluid leaking from the back of the master cylinder. So it either needs replacing or refurbishing with a seal kit. Richard Yep, same symptoms. I put a new kit in the existing master cylinder. If I do it again it will be a new cylinder, too fiddly putting a kit in and the kit that was supplied had parts for another kit so it got complicated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 DOT4-DOT5 mix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 If you want to use a gunsons pressure bleeder to make the bleed process simple ( once you’ve replaced/fixed the leaking master cylinder) then i have one complete with a tr6 cap modified to suit that you’re welcome to borrow. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 I had problems with a new master cylinder which only lasted a very short time before it and the brakes failed completely. I would now always get the original master cylinder rebuilt by a reputable company. I and lots of others on here use Past Parts (no connection other then satisfied customer) George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 For the small additional money I had my original cylinders reconditioned as George above. Too many issues with new repro’s. The dark bubbles are likely remnants for silicone brake fluid, which does not mix with standard brake fluid. Flush the system until clear thoroughly. I would remove the servo as well, as it may have filled with brake fluid. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) Do not buy any new cylinders. I suggest that you have all parts of the hydraulic system overhauled . Past Parts did mine years ago and I never had a problem. One of our Forum members in the USA carried out an experiment. Hoe bought a number of new cylinders and two old genuine units. He took sections from all units and under a microscope all the new sections showed a very rough surface. The original cylinders were flat and smooth. It is a shame that quality control does not always have a strong presence in small batch parts for our cars. At this stage, with the possibility of Silicon in the fluid, I would replace all the pipework as well. It is a good time yo do it and brakes are not an area where short cuts are advised. Overhaul the original. Richard & B. Edited February 16, 2020 by Richardtr3a Extra comment immediately after pressing send. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Due to the photo this is probably mainly DOT5 / silicon, lost all its color to the DOT4, we discussed that not long ago, please browse the forum for "brake fluid issues" Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Hi Steve, The use of the pressure bleeder would be great. I had looked at buying one but the cap size was an issue. If you could PM me perhaps I can collect in the next week or two. Many thanks. Looking at past posts I can see that that new cylinders have been a problem, so will go for the rebuild route, will contact Past Part, would they overhaul the servo aswell ? Good suggestion Waldi re the Servo....if a jobs worth doing..... Thanks all Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 15 hours ago, Phil H 4 said: Having got the old girl up on stands to gives the brakes a once as the level in the reservoir had dropped, and not knowing when the fluid was last changed. A few more gremlins started to turn up. The fluid in the reservoir was quite dark tea coloured so looked as if a change was due however the colour of the brake fluid was much lighter when bleeding, but there appeared to be oil droplets or similar in the fluid as shown in the picture of the bleed pipe. Having only had the car a couple of years I'm wondering what brake fluid had been used. So first question. If I flush the system with I understand methylated spirit, am i best to do this by pressurising the system and do I then flush through with new fluid say twice ? The fluid loss appears to be at the junction between the servo housing and the master cylinder. No other leaks are visible. Should there be a gasket between the two surfaces and is the notch out of the master cylinder meant to be there or is this damage. Any suggestions appreciated. Phil Hi Phil, Looking at your first picture, it looks to me that your sliding spline boot is split on your drive shaft? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 1 hour ago, Phil H 4 said: Hi Steve, The use of the pressure bleeder would be great. I had looked at buying one but the cap size was an issue. If you could PM me perhaps I can collect in the next week or two. Many thanks. Looking at past posts I can see that that new cylinders have been a problem, so will go for the rebuild route, will contact Past Part, would they overhaul the servo aswell ? Good suggestion Waldi re the Servo....if a jobs worth doing..... Thanks all Phil Hi Steve, They do overhaul servo units also, but do tell them what finish you want it to have, mine was returned to me with a gold finish that I don't like in the slightest, I would have preferred black. Other than that I can highly recommend Past Parts, no connection, happy customer. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Hi Bruce, yes noticed that and also the bump stop is a bit perished. Could be on the stands for a while. I’m sure there will be other things to sort. and thanks Richard, Black it will be. Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Phil H 4 said: Hi Steve, The use of the pressure bleeder would be great. I had looked at buying one but the cap size was an issue. If you could PM me perhaps I can collect in the next week or two. Many thanks. Looking at past posts I can see that that new cylinders have been a problem, so will go for the rebuild route, will contact Past Part, would they overhaul the servo aswell ? Good suggestion Waldi re the Servo....if a jobs worth doing..... Thanks all Phil You’re welcome to borrow it Phil just let me know when you assembled the parts you need and you can collect it steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Phil, good you plan to tackle the servo as well. Just a thought: This would also be an opportunity to convert to a new larger servo. A guy in Holland sells these, they are modified to be a straight fit, and the longer brake lines can be ordered too. Price will be around 300 euro, including shipping. I have no connection. A couple of forumnites have this. Maybe these are also available from the UK? Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Thanks Waldi, might be worth it I’ll see what the refurbishment cost will be to offset. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 Having checked the Servo it has brake fluid in it so called Past Parts today in respect of refurbishing the master cylinder and the servo. Apparently some servos are sealed for life, with crimped edges. Looking at mine it would appear to be the case. What are the best options as reading some past posts there seems to be some on the market that are poor quality. Thanks Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 Im unsure those are ‘crimped’ edges Phil? If i were buying a servo and MC i’d go to the TRShop in Chiswick, always reliable. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 A little information may be of help to others. Past Parts advise that during production a sealed for life servo was provided that is crimped together. Mine I thought looked to be crimped but if you look at the back joint between the two parts ( Facing the bulk head ) you will see circular cut outs. Past Parts indicate that this type of unit can be separated and refurbished. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 Excellent ! assuming your MC is an original one then refurb is the way to go. i say ‘assuming’ as there were a batch of ‘new’ MCs sold that did what yours has done, ie leak into the servo. send them off Phil and see what PP say. let me know when they’re back and youre ready to Bleed steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted February 20, 2020 Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 (edited) I've used Past Parts for years for my TR6s and 3A and their work is always to the highest standard. However, they do not (or didn't) guarantee their work if you use silicon fluid. Best ask the question if you intend to use DOT 5. Cheers, Andrew Edited February 20, 2020 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 20, 2020 Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 I have PP cylinders as when and asked them if ok to use SBF, which they confirmed. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted February 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 Thanks Andrew, I intend to use Dot 4 and have a couple of litres to flush the system through thoroughly before I fill and bleed. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted March 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 Quick update, Servo and master cylinder received back from Past Parts turn around under 3 weeks, good service and communication. Final cost considerably more than repro items but I'm happy to have the originals back looking and performing like new. Thanks to Steve for the loan of the pressure bleeder ( Gunson Eezibleed ) with TR6 modified cap. The longest part of the Job was a trip down to the local petrol station to put some air in a spare tyre, long queue for toilet rolls...! The bleeding was super easy and quick, flushed the system, bled and filled and adjusted the handbrake in 20 Min's. ( Car already on stands ) I can highly recommend the pressure bleeder, follow the instructions particularly re the pressure in the tyre and its plain sailing. I had purchased an inexpensive vacuum bleeder but found it to be near useless as it kept pulling air in from around the bleed nipples which had been replace. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 19, 2020 Report Share Posted March 19, 2020 Glad it worked for you Phil sun forecast for the weekend so you’ll be able to get out and test the brakes ! steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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