Tr4aJim Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 Folks, I noticed that the fan hub on my 1965 TR4a is very close to to the top of the steering rack. Therefore I’m guessing that the engine mounts are due for replacement. I’ve read discussions regarding the use of the Tr4 style round mounts vs the Tr4a style rectangular mounts. My car currently has round mounts. Would that style of mount have any bearing on my car having a live axle? Also I have read that some Tr4/Tr4a owners use Rover mounts, as they are stronger and make the motor sit a bit higher. Has anyone here used these, and if so, what model/year Rover mounts did you use? Finally, any tips/tricks for raising the motor enough to replace the mounts? I’m wary of using a jack under the oil pan for fear of crushing it or the gasket. thanks Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 (edited) My 4a had round mounts as when I restored it 25+ years ago that was all that was available back then (They were even genuine Stanpart as well!) I replaced them last year as I had the engine out to fix leaks and enlarge its capacity and used the Landrover mounts instead, they do make the engine sit higher but be careful as it can give fouling issues. Oh and a large piece of wood across the sump will spread the load enough to stop damage. Stuart. Edited November 22, 2018 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 Hi Jim, the replacement 4A mounts that are square 'should' be better but I believe they are not. I used these www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk not sure if you can get them in the US. If the mounts are not high enough you could space them out with large washers. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 As Stuart says a large wooden block placed evenly under the sump does the job. This is the method I used when I renewed my engine mountings. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted November 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 Thank you all! Stuart, which year/model mount did you use? Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 I used Landrover mounts on my TR4A, been on 7 years now and still good. Landrover Part # ANR1808 Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Thanks Graeme! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ray dore Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 I used land rover mounts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 I contacted John Richards Surplus, and they list the mounts as part STC434. Unfortunately they do not ship to the US. I did a google search for that part and found a place called LR Direct that does ship to the US. However they have several listings, with a wide range of prices based on manufacturer; from “Britpart” at $1.75, to Land Rover at $37.81, and several in between. Should I just pick one mid priced between the two extremes or are they all pretty much the same quality? thanks Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Hi Jim, would you like me to buy a pair and post them out to you.? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Be Aware! Some Landrover engine mounts that will fit TR4-4A may well be metric threaded. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Thank you Roger, that’s a very kind offer. I will PM you my address. Peter, that shouldn’t be an issue as long as the proper nuts are included, right? The car’s mounting surfaces are just holes, not threaded, correct? Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Jim, Try this place. https://www.roversnorth.com/ Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Tr4aJim said: Thank you Roger, that’s a very kind offer. I will PM you my address. Peter, that shouldn’t be an issue as long as the proper nuts are included, right? The car’s mounting surfaces are just holes, not threaded, correct? Jim Hi Jim, 8mm nuts - plain holes. I will not include the nuts in the package to save weight/money. They will be in a letter that follows later Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Thanks Roger! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) 50 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Jim, 8mm nuts - plain holes. I will not include the nuts in the package to save weight/money. They will be in a letter that follows later Roger I think the LR ones are M8 nuts arent they? Stuart. Edited November 26, 2018 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2018 Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Hi Stuart, aren't 8mm and M8 the same ? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 27, 2018 Report Share Posted November 27, 2018 16 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Stuart, aren't 8mm and M8 the same ? Roger Depends on your perception of that answer, 8mm nut could be taken to be 8mm across the flats which is pretty much equivalent to a 2BA spanner or a 5/16" spanner whereas an M8 threaded nut which is a 13mm spanner size but is almost the equivalent of a 5/16" threaded nut which is a 1/2" spanner size. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 27, 2018 Report Share Posted November 27, 2018 In ISO standards, 8mm denotes a plain diameter, whereas M* is a thread. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted November 27, 2018 Report Share Posted November 27, 2018 Aren't you sorry you asked Roger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 27, 2018 Report Share Posted November 27, 2018 Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 3, 2018 Report Share Posted December 3, 2018 ....anyway, just to tidy this up - it isn;t M8 (or 8mm) but M10 I just love typos Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted December 5, 2018 Report Share Posted December 5, 2018 Bring on the Brexit......we can upgrade to proper imperial sizes and thread forms! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted January 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Hi folks, With the holidays over, I’m getting around to replacing the motor mounts (thanks Roger) on my TR4a. I got the nuts off the existing mounts and I’m ready to jack the engine up. I loosened the transmission mount and the upper radiator hose, and have a piece of wood under the oil pan. Is that all I need do, to be able to jack the engine high enough to clear the mount bolts? Or does the exhaust down pipe need to be loosened as well? thanks Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Hi Jim, I think the down pipe should be OK. You may need to lift the engine at an angle - do one side at a time. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.