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Votes of support much appreciated.

 

Test run was OK and I am back in one piece Rog. There seems to be a bit more travel on the pedal now, but it could just be my imagination. I got out on some straight, clear roads, pushed it up to 60 and then stamped on the anchors a few times (something I've never actually done in the TR before). It stopped, but obviously took longer than a modern car. I was a bit surprised that I didn't get a lock up of the brakes, so I do wonder if that means they are not as sharp as they should be. What do you reckon?

 

So, next Neil ... I'm thinking test and possibly change thermostat for summer running. What can I possibly bu**er up there :D No, don't tell me, I'm sure I'll find out.

 

Thanks John. I am chuffed. I know doing a brake bleed is no big deal, but it's important to me to have a crack at these things.

 

Change the clutch Pinky :o Sadly, I think that'll always be beyond me, but you never know I suppose. I've got the Owner's Workshop Manual, the Repair Operation Manual, a couple of other "how to" books. Unfortunately, a lot of them seem to assume a level of knowledge beyond numpty.

 

Darren

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Votes of support much appreciated.

 

Test run was OK and I am back in one piece Rog. There seems to be a bit more travel on the pedal now, but it could just be my imagination. I got out on some straight, clear roads, pushed it up to 60 and then stamped on the anchors a few times (something I've never actually done in the TR before). It stopped, but obviously took longer than a modern car. I was a bit surprised that I didn't get a lock up of the brakes, so I do wonder if that means they are not as sharp as they should be. What do you reckon?

 

So, next Neil ... I'm thinking test and possibly change thermostat for summer running. What can I possibly bu**er up there :D No, don't tell me, I'm sure I'll find out.

 

Thanks John. I am chuffed. I know doing a brake bleed is no big deal, but it's important to me to have a crack at these things.

 

Change the clutch Pinky :o Sadly, I think that'll always be beyond me, but you never know I suppose. I've got the Owner's Workshop Manual, the Repair Operation Manual, a couple of other "how to" books. Unfortunately, a lot of them seem to assume a level of knowledge beyond numpty.

 

Darren

 

Don't forget the Phone a Friend option.
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Darren,

 

"....I'm thinking test and possibly change thermostat for summer running..."

 

 

There is a very apt old saying, ​If it 'aint broke don't fix it.

 

I'm sure you will have plenty of real problems to entertain you without creating any extra.

 

 

Alan

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Test run was OK and I am back in one piece Rog. There seems to be a bit more travel on the pedal now, but it could just be my imagination. I got out on some straight, clear roads, pushed it up to 60 and then stamped on the anchors a few times (something I've never actually done in the TR before). It stopped, but obviously took longer than a modern car. I was a bit surprised that I didn't get a lock up of the brakes, so I do wonder if that means they are not as sharp as they should be. What do you reckon?

 

 

I reckon it ain't right. Properly adjusted and bled, TR brakes are as good as and better than many modern cars. My MOT man says the (non-servo) brakes on my TR3A are probably the best they see and they test mainly modern cars.

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+1

 

If you think there is more pedal travel then there almost certainly is.

 

As you drained the reservoir dry during the sodding bleeding process then you probably still have air in the rear system.

 

You should be able to lock the brakes/wheels. However after driving a modern it is not natural to press hard - you need to give it some grunt.

 

Roger

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. What can I possibly bu**er up there :D No, don't tell me, I'm sure I'll find out.

 

Thanks John. I am chuffed. I know doing a brake bleed is no big deal, but it's important to me to have a crack at these things.

 

 

Darren

 

.Brake bleeding can be very frustrating, ask anyone that has done a series Land-Rover !, sounds like you cracked it though. I would personally rather tackle a clutch. The only two things that can go wrong with a thermostat change/check is that a stud might break or you get caught using the best copper bottomed saucepan heating the water up to test it.

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Pleased to see that my old role is in safe hands ! D, when will you be round to show me how to use my EzeeBleed ?

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Pleased to see that my old role is in safe hands ! D, when will you be round to show me how to use my EzeeBleed ?

 

You still here? Any time you want me to pop round to show you where to stick now to use the EzeeBleed give me a shout :P

 

Umm, sounds like I'm still not quite there with it then. I'll have another go at the rears.

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Hi Darren

 

Just a thought - do make sure your assistant holds the brake pedal down and holds it down whilst you tighten up the nipples and only lets go when you have finished tightening

otherwise small amounts of air will be dragged in again.

 

best Bill

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Darren, Pump the pedal up to its hardest and jam it down like that with a piece of wood. Leave overnight.

Stuart.

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Good to hear you are nearly there Darren :):)

 

If there was an award going at Malvern for "Novice Spannering" You would get my vote :)

 

We who admit to it have been there & done it.

 

Cheers

 

Mike B)

 

PS We all make mistakes said the Hedgehog on top of the Scrubbing Brush :lol::lol::lol::lol:

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:D Thanks Mike. I'll take it as a compliment when you say you'd vote for me for a Numpty Novice Spannering Award :lol::lol::lol:

 

Right then, brake pedal wedged down all night, so off out in a bit for second test run ... and this time I'll give it some more "grunt" on the brakes Roger.

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Hi Darren,

before you set off, remove the lump of wood.

 

Roger

Which one ... the one on the brake pedal or the one between my ears? :D

 

Anyhow, back from test run. There's a definite improvement, although still not getting brakes to lock, so might replace the wood tonight.

 

Nevertheless, what a lovely drive it was today. The temperature and atmosphere must have been just right, because the engine purred.

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OK, will take a look at that Neil. Thanks.

 

It's nice out Britewell Baldwin way Roger and very close to where I was born and raised. I'm a bit further west these days, but if I'd known you were in the area we could have perhaps met up. You can always pop in if you are out my way.

 

One of our local group members popped round this evening to see what he could make of the brakes. I explained that I'd never had to really use the brakes hard in the past, so I didn't know how they felt under those circumstances before changing the fluid. After he'd driven mine for a bit and testing the brakes, he felt confident that they OK ... he even got them to lock.

 

I was telling him about the error I made in not filling the front chamber and he was surprised that I had needed to. He showed me the reservoir on his 6, and in it there is a hole between the bridge so both chambers are filled from the larger one. That's not the same as mine.

 

Anyhow, I'll still look at adjusting the rears and perhaps a change of the front pads.

 

Everyone's guidance has been much appreciated, as always.

 

Cheers, Darren

Edited by TR5tar
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Dont think there should be a hole between front and rear sections Darren.

 

If the rear pipework leaked it would drain both reservoirs.

 

The whole point of the dual circuit system is for them to have separate reservoirs.

 

Neither of my 6's had any connection between front and rear sections.

 

( i spent a lot of time on the brakes of the last 6 as had a leaky flare on a pipe when i bought it..... to ages to find!)

 

Steve

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