JohnRoberts Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Hi Guys I have just fitted a new oil pump, not put sump back on yet. My question is,there any way of priming before starting/ turning over without the plugs in. Going to recheck crankshaft end float again before refitting the sump. Best Regards JohnR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Two possibilities. One is to remove the big gallery plug just above the relief valve and pump clean engine oil into the gallery with an oil can. This will run back directly to the outlet side of the pump. The other, my preferred, but more hassle especially on a PI car is to remove the distributor, pedestal (and MU if fitted) and then the distributor/oil pump drive gear. Then, with a suitably slotted rod in an electric drill (running anticlockwise) you can spin the pump until pressure is produced. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRoberts Posted February 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Hi Nick Thanks for that, will try the first. Regards JohnR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Alternatively, pack the pump with petroleum jelly then spin engine on starter (with plugs out) until oil pressure comes up. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Pre assembly pack with petroeum jelly. Post assembly remove the oil PRV and squirting 250ml of oil in there shortly before start up. you can prime by turning over the oil pump with an electric drill having removed the dizzy drive gear but make sure you have your torque setting on the drill quite low. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 After checking end float of oil pump central rotor etc., pre- priming pump and oil gallery. I use an old diff filler squeezie bottle filled with engine oil, you will be surprised how much oil the gallery takes. The key issue for me is to make sure that the ignition is disconnected and the plugs are out. Then turn the engine over on starter motor until oil pressure is registered on the o/p gauge, oil light will also go out, before starting up. If you have a new cartridge screw on filter fitted, make sure it is filled with oil before it was fitted. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 (edited) I can't remember how many engines I've rebuilt over the years but I've never resorted to any of this when starting up from dry. As long as there's plenty of assembly lube then spin it up on the starter the ignition disconnected until oil pressure builds up. Edited February 27, 2017 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRoberts Posted February 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Hi Guys I have been trying to fitted the sump this afternoon, only to find a stripped thread in the Alum bridge piece at the front. One as already been helicoiled. Currently tying to do the other , not easy to get at. JohnR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted February 27, 2017 Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 Pre assembly pack with petroeum jelly. Post assembly remove the oil PRV and squirting 250ml of oil in there shortly before start up. you can prime by turning over the oil pump with an electric drill having removed the dizzy drive gear but make sure you have your torque setting on the drill quite low. If you use the PRV hole, most of the oil you squirt in will go straight into the sump via the relief passage. You need the PRV in place to block that off, hence the suggestion to use the gallery plug above it. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stanpartmanpartwolf Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 How many chaps have genuinely, really, tried the reversing electric drill trick? I can tell Andy Moltu has. He probably found out the hard way, as did I. Don't do it, folks; plugs out, two batteries in parallel & spin her up on the starter. Oil pump should be packed with Lubriplate, the best all-round assembly gunge there is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Tell us more? Why should you not do it? I have done it a number of times an it works beautifully. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Tell us more? Why should you not do it? I have done it a number of times an it works beautifully. Tim I'd like to know why not use this method also, I can't think of where it would cause any harm? Or, can it potentially damage the oil pump? Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 How many chaps have genuinely, really, tried the reversing electric drill trick? I can tell Andy Moltu has. He probably found out the hard way, as did I. Iv'e never had a problem with it, OK it doesn't get any up to the rockers, but it does fill the filter, any cooler pipes (well as far as any thermostat) the oil gallery and the oilways to the Mains and BE's before you crank it over with the plugs out. Apart from being a faf as you have to refit drive dog, pedestal and distributor, what's not to like having as much oil in the system near the bearings before you spin them? Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Look at the oil flow path Spmpw is bang on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Look at the oil flow path Spmpw is bang on Eh? As a regular user of this technique on both the (small) 4s and 6s I don't see see the problem. Yes, it is a faf and I probably wouldn't bother to dismantle an already fully assembled engine, but it works really well. It does need a degree of subtlety and on the 6 it also needs a special tool in the drill ("negative" screwdriver) to engage on the oil pump drive shaft. A cut-off section of a 4 cylinder pump (spitfire/herald) fits perfectly and conversely a cut-off section of a 6-pot pump shaft fits the 4 pot shaft, both of which also have the advantage of being a decent fit in the bush. If this is a cryptic reference to the alleged possibility of an oil shower due to the oil feed drillings in the pump drive bush being uncovered (if you don't use a close fitting shaft in the drill) I have to say that I've never had any trouble avoiding this and performed this very operation on a Spitfire engine a couple of weekends ago, using a standard screwdriver bit, (special tool mislaid) with complete success and without making a mess. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 If your happy you carry on what do I know? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRoberts Posted March 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Hi Guys Thanks for the interesting suggestions regarding oil pump priming. All I did in the end was to crank a cold engine without choke, a short time and the oil pressure came up ( 5bar on the gauge) Choke out then the engine started. Best Regards JohnR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 ...and it will be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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