Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
TR Tim

Anyone got experience with heater upgrades?

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

 

So i've stripped the car out yet again and about to install upgraded gearbox and overdrive (stag internals).

Decided to bite the bullet while its all in bits to referb the tired heater. Can anyone tell me if any of the upgrades available are worth the money? Clayton classics do a referb kit and i believe Holden classics, but yet to talk to them. Are there any other offerings out there I should consider, or should I just but a new standard matrix and motor?

Depending on what I find when I finally get the heater out I am looking at my options. I don't want to have to do it again!! Anyone got any advice?

Thanks

 

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Tim, can't help about TR6, but I've fitted a Clayton (in fact, this heater was wearing a "made in France" label, and as initially made for a motorhome !) heater on a TR3A, and it work perfectly.

Edited by Chris59

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tim

 

Fitted a complete Clayton Heater to my TR4 last year not cheap but worth it, make sure you fit a Taxi TX1 heater valve to get maximum water flow, available on e bay for about £15 .

 

 

Cheers Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tim,

what is wrong with your original heater?

 

If it does not feel hot enough - have you checked the water flow into it and through it?

 

The heater valve on the block can cause problems.

 

If the water supply to your heater is at fault then any NEW heater will also not work.

 

The original heater is capable of toasting your feet on a very cold day.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 Roger, if the matrix is blocked due to crud you will have the same effect. Put a hose pipe through the old matrix and see wat you get?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Refurb the original, fit new foams all round and it will be fine, save your money and just spend some time on it, changing the feed pipe from the water pump and the bulkhead fitting will also help hugely.

Stuart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 for cleaning , the amount of crud that comes through the vent flap over the years , you will be surprised I was.

 

That's a good point. Most people are thinking to only clean the inside of the matrix. The outer vanes also need the muck washing off.

 

Roger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a good point. Most people are thinking to only clean the inside of the matrix. The outer vanes also need the muck washing off.

 

Roger

Is there any way to clean out the outside/airside of the matrix whilst its in the car Roger ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I decided to tackle the dreaded heater once and for all while the car is in a million pieces.
Knew id kick myself later if i didn't. Pig to get out.
Well, check this out!!
It was still working believe it or not, albeit very badly and noisily and the heat took ages to come through.
There were no external signs of a leak whatsoever. I was just going to leave it for now.
Boy am I glad I went for it, imagine getting it all back together only to take it out again.

Moral of the story...

Dont put off today...............

 

Anyone got a spare heater box for a TR5 lying around?

I think this may just be too far gone,

 

Tim

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4097.jpg

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4101.jpg

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4099.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I decided to tackle the dreaded heater once and for all while the car is in a million pieces.

Knew id kick myself later if i didn't. Pig to get out.

Well, check this out!!

It was still working believe it or not, albeit very badly and noisily and the heat took ages to come through.

There were no external signs of a leak whatsoever. I was just going to leave it for now.

Boy am I glad I went for it, imagine getting it all back together only to take it out again.

Moral of the story...

Dont put off today...............

 

Anyone got a spare heater box for a TR5 lying around?

I think this may just be too far gone,

 

Tim

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4097.jpg

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4101.jpg

http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4099.jpg

Hi Tim

 

I've just gone through rebuilding a heater for the 5, that was just as bad. It looks awful, but when you get down to cleaning,re-painting etc, you will be amazed at how good you can get it to be. I don't have a picture before/after (yet). Briefly I stripped it all down, re-painted all the panels, bought/used a new matrix, re-sealed with new seals, new s/s screws etc and fitted an MGB spiral fan (£9.50) instead of the blade fan. a) it should throw out more air/heat and B) I expect you will find that when you try to take off the old fan, you will have to wiggle/warm it up a lot to get it off and then you will find that it's too loose to re-fit onto the spindle.It's very difficult to get a new one if at all. I didn't. The MGB one is a good fit and you can still get them new. Keep the clip !!! - best Bill

 

here's a useful site

 

http://www.74tr6.com/heater.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just remember how old the matrix is in the heater before you discount a 'new, uprated' unit....... if it pops then a lot of scalding water will land on the front seat passengers......

 

Bare minimum, get the matrix pressure tested.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the responses as ever.

Heater referb is ongoing but cant seem to find anyone selling a seal kit for the box itself.

All the foam on the flap was perished and I think there were other seals within the box but it was such a mess it was impossible to tell?

Any ideas anyone?

 

Cheers

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the responses as ever.

Heater referb is ongoing but cant seem to find anyone selling a seal kit for the box itself.

All the foam on the flap was perished and I think there were other seals within the box but it was such a mess it was impossible to tell?

Any ideas anyone?

 

Cheers

Tim

I made my own from foam bought locally.

Stuart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tim,

home made foam works well.

When doing the TR4 the other year I noticed that the flap has three positions -

fully in for closed

Partly open to fed the screen vent tubes

Fully open to warm the tootsies.

 

Not sure of the outside flap arrangements on the 5

 

What I came up with is that if the outside scuttle flap is closed then there is no need for the closed position on the flap in the heater.

So the flap could be modified to close hard against the body of the heater box (not actually going inside the box) and flap down for open.

 

May make sealing easier.

 

Roger

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used self adhesive door seal (comes in a roll from B&Q and the like) for the box sections. Closed cell foam for the frame of the flap door and the flap door itself. Cut this carefully with the aim of the door being easily closed and resting on the cell foam. I used some very thin foam which allowed the flap to close properly. Then a small amount of sealer for the pipe joints etc. , but 1st make sure all the flanges are flat / de-rusted etc, - check carefully the spline spindle. The one that has the small yoke on the end for the cable and the rod goes through the flap door hinge. Don't force it otherwise It will break. Soak it overnight in a rust free solution of your choice. Then very gently punch it out. If that doesn't work, use some heat and try again. Apply a small amount of grease when re-assembling. Check/test the motor and especially the soldered joints on the resistor and the wires. Clean and repair. Gently clean the motor spindle with fine wet/dry. Fit ( as suggested )the MG spiral fan, with a new spire clip. I would fit a new matrix after all this work. Then once all done test on the bench both speeds.Get a new foam collar and fit with new rubber bushes etc. It might sound like a real faf, but the result is well worth it and will be a much lower cost than, than say the upgraded heaters from Moss/Revingtons etc at £550+

Bill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.