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TR Tim

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  1. Hi All So the Tr5 has developed a slightly alarming rear end clonk and I need some pointers please. The diff is quiet and smooth under load, the clonk happens when i lift off the power and sounds like it comes from rear end diff area. When I accelerate and the drivetrain is under load its fine all seems normal but when I lift off to decelerate or change gear something clonks. The harder I drive it the bigger the clonk. I first thought it might be a driveshaft and knowing I hadn't serviced the sliding splines for a while I did that, the uj's seemed smooth with no excessive play so i put them back in, and it made absolutely no difference. I span up the wheels whilst on jacks and couldn't replicate the noise so guess its only under load. I have been under the car for ages shaking everything and trying to locate something but all appears fine to my untrained eye. The diff is wet around the seals, but not bad, but is totally secure so think I've ruled out mounting pins (i had them reinforced some years back). Cant find anything obvious or loose so I'm scratching my head a bit. Does this sound like a failing diff? Its the only part of the drivetrain i haven't replaced in my ownership so on the basis that one would like to think the other components haven't worn out in 2/3 years (bad assumption I know) i'm thinking diff. Is there any way to test it on the car I just don't want to pay for an expensive rebuild if it's not essential or not even necessary right now as I was planning to spend my tiny Tr budget on sorting some rust at the bottom of the A and B pillars on the drivers side. Any pointers, opinions much appreciated. Cheers Tim
  2. Hi All I have a 1971 US Tr6 running on twin Strombergs. I have had poor running usually when hot and the car loses power. Initially I suspected fuel starvation and ended up swapping the tank and replacing the fuel lines and fuel pump as the car has sat for a few years prior to my ownership and tank was rusty and blocking fuel filter etc. (needed doing anyway) Thought this would cure the drop in power Car still starts fine and seems ok until under load and then it starts to die and the ignition light now comes on either periodically or continually. Checked battery and its reading 12V off and 13.5V at idol. Changed the king HT lead and things improved somewhat but after about 2 miles the light started again and power lost. I have now changed the coil and HT leads and still it persists. I now strongly suspect the alternator. I want to change the alternator and have a couple I could try but the wiring is different to that on the car. The 2 I have use a block with 3 connections and is held in place with a little metal clip. On the car there are 5 connections. Earth strap Thick brown and white wire Solid brown brown and white and yellow and white together single brown and yellow. Question is how do I wire the newer alternator to this arrangement. Any help much appreciated. Its driving me mad. Many thanks Tim
  3. Hi All I had to have some welding done on the chassis on my Tr5 and now have a fair bit of bare metal to deal with. The rest of the underside is covered in crud and I want advice on how best to prep for painting. I am told that many degreasers contain silicone and are therefore bad news when prepping to paint. Any ideas experience on this gratefully received. Cheers all Tim
  4. https://www.performanceandclassiccars.com/copy-of-fast-furious-1
  5. Hi All Anyone got anywhere I can get boot lining trim panels for my TR5? Or is it a case of fabricating my own? In particular the side areas inside the boot. I want to hide the wiring and generally tidy it all up. Anyone got any pics of nicely trimmed boot, id like to see them. Cheers Tim
  6. Thanks all for the responses as ever. Heater referb is ongoing but cant seem to find anyone selling a seal kit for the box itself. All the foam on the flap was perished and I think there were other seals within the box but it was such a mess it was impossible to tell? Any ideas anyone? Cheers Tim
  7. So I decided to tackle the dreaded heater once and for all while the car is in a million pieces. Knew id kick myself later if i didn't. Pig to get out. Well, check this out!! It was still working believe it or not, albeit very badly and noisily and the heat took ages to come through. There were no external signs of a leak whatsoever. I was just going to leave it for now. Boy am I glad I went for it, imagine getting it all back together only to take it out again. Moral of the story... Dont put off today............... Anyone got a spare heater box for a TR5 lying around? I think this may just be too far gone, Tim http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4097.jpg http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4101.jpg http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l494/TrTim1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4099.jpg
  8. Hi Guys So i've stripped the car out yet again and about to install upgraded gearbox and overdrive (stag internals). Decided to bite the bullet while its all in bits to referb the tired heater. Can anyone tell me if any of the upgrades available are worth the money? Clayton classics do a referb kit and i believe Holden classics, but yet to talk to them. Are there any other offerings out there I should consider, or should I just but a new standard matrix and motor? Depending on what I find when I finally get the heater out I am looking at my options. I don't want to have to do it again!! Anyone got any advice? Thanks Tim
  9. Hi Paul Welcome to the forum. I had an older set of Minilite Replicas on my Tr6 pictured left. From memory I think they were by KN wheels. The nut holes were not cone shaped and the nuts were just tubes which passed through the holes onto the studs. They were very tight and difficult to fit making removing and replacing the wheels a real pain in the preverbial. Make sure you avoid them whichever wheels you go for. Tim
  10. Hi All I had a 6 and sold it to buy my 5. I weighed up the pros and cons and it was the right decision for me at the time. I had added as much value as I could to my 6 during my ownership and was ready for a new challenge. To drive there is little or no difference, but the looks now thats different. Personally whilst I really love the sharp clean lines of the 6, and the noise of both, I have to say I adore the curves of the 5. For me the shape of the bonnet, with the curves over the lights and big bump is just lovely and exactly what British sports car should look like and great to look out over from the cockpit. Tim
  11. Hi All I had my fuel system and fuel pump upgraded on the Tr5 about 14 months ago, and took the decision to replace the original tank with an ally one, not because it was corroded or anything but I was experiencing fuel starvation on tight left handers when the tank was low and was advised at the time that this was due to the absence of swirl pot or baffles in the early tanks and so decided this was a worthwhile replacement. I started to get strong petrol smells coming from the boot and after replacing all the brand new fuel pipes yet again, as it was suggested they were sweating, still the smell came and went. Finally found the first tank had split along the weld where the top left tank mount was fixed. Therefore it only leaked when the tank was nearly full. Finally found it and had the tank replaced under guarantee 2 weeks ago. (Although the first tank was fitted 14 months ago the car has been off the road for an engine rebuild for at least half of that.) The second was leaking as soon as it was fitted, so a week later, last night I fitted the third tank myself. I have now lost all faith in these replacement tanks but will have to live with it for now as I sold the original tank on eBay. Has anyone else experience similar problems, are they really that ****, or have I just been INCREDIBLY unlucky? Is it because the tank is a structural part and the ally stresses, work hardens and fails? If so why are they for sale in the first place??? Anyone got any advice or recommendation? Are there any really good options available? Thanks Tim
  12. Hi Has anyone used one of these conversions instead of the original arrangement. Very expensive but appears to completely solve the problem with the front screen capping and the original diabolical design. Just wondering where you could stow the fabric section when not being used because it must presumably be as wide as the car and unable to fold. http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=V1B8GQCVHDFU8P6FD4XBH4Q0KCD1CQ5E&ProductID=RTR6139BK Any experience, positive or otherwise? Wish id known this was available before I had my standard design made. Cheers Tim
  13. What a day, new suspension finally sorted and geometry set up by TRGB this morning. After 3 years of ownership I finally have a car with everything working and sorted. Im just in from the maiden flight and one of the most rewarding and enjoyable drives of my life. I cant stop smiling. She is truly awesome, punchy, torquey and silky smooth, what a drive. And that engine note cooooooor. She’s so engaging, just the right balance of sharp slightly pointed directness which keeps you constantly entertained. She inspires confidence without allowing complacency. The flat spot caused by the fast cam at about 2000 revs far from being annoying means that on country lanes and fast sweeping bends it works best in third gear, which keeps the revs up and the engine on cam and allows you to flick the overdrive in and out of the corners, its just glorious, because theres no loss of drive as with a gear change. Smooth and fast, revs easily to 5500 and seems to want more. I have to give a big shout out for and thank you to the two excellent TR specialists I am lucky enough to have virtually on my doorstep, Robsport International and TRGB, respectively. My thanks to Simon, Ben, Leon and the rest of the great team at Robsport International for all your help, and Simon for even helping me on a Easter Bank Holiday, much appreciated, and Ben for all the telephone advice. Thanks also to Richard and Jason at TRGB, for building a fantastic silky smooth and fast engine, cheers to you all for your patience, advice and the benefit of your many years of experience. Of course, you’re all too expensive, but you get what you pay for and tonight I felt like it was all money well spent. Also thanks to Stuart, Conrad and the rest of the Guys on here for all your help, and support, makes it all fun. If anyone out there is flagging with a rebuild and needs inspiring please keep going, I promise you it is worth the pain. Cheers Guys. One very happy Bunny
  14. Hi All So i'm in the middle of major suspension referb/upgrade and need advice please. 1. Top wishbone assebly, are washers required on the inside of the fulcrum pin when fitting these bushes? 2. Should I be using nylocs or castellated nuts and split pins for fixing wishbone to fulcrum pin, and in either case what torque settings should I have with these bushes? 3. Lower wishbone to trunnion assembly with the same polybushes, washers are required between polybushes and trunnion and on the outside before the castellated nut and split pin. What torque setting for this? 4. Lower wishbone inner to chassis bracket I assume no washers inside the bracket as the bush is very snug anyway and the steel tube inside must dictate how much compression is on the bush. Again what torque settings are required. The torque settings in the haynes manual presumably relate to rubber bushes hence my question? I have torqued the inner lower wishbone to chassis brackets to 45 ft/lb and they are quite stiff? Is that correct? Much appreciate any advice and Happy Easter to all. Tim
  15. Hi All So i'm in the middle of major suspension referb/upgrade and need advice please. 1. Top wishbone assebly, are washers required on the inside of the fulcrum pin when fitting these bushes? 2. Should I be using nylocs or castellated nuts and split pins for fixing wishbone to fulcrum pin, and in either case what torque settings should I have with these bushes? 3. Lower wishbone to trunnion assembly with the same polybushes, washers are required between polybushes and trunnion and on the outside before the castellated nut and split pin. What torque setting for this? 4. Lower wishbone inner to chassis bracket I assume no washers inside the bracket as the bush is very snug anyway and the steel tube inside must dictate how much compression is on the bush. Again what torque settings are required. The torque settings in the haynes manual presumably relate to rubber bushes hence my question? I have torqued the inner lower wishbone to chassis brackets to 45 ft/lb and they are quite stiff? Is that correct? Much appreciate any advice and Happy Easter to all. Tim
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