Penrite Classic Light Engine Oil 20W-60

[McMuttley]

I have just under half a canister of the above left - which has aTriumph on the front. With the team having deserted to Millers, the current Classic Light 20W-60 has generic AC lookalike.

 

Can I mix the two ?

[Don H.]

Should be no issue at all, Austin -- I've mixed oils for years.

 

Over here oils are graded by API service class. I suspect yours are, too. That's relevant to modern cars but given how old our cars are this is almost meaningless.

The key thing for a flat tappet engine is the "zinc" content (ZDDP, or zinc dithiophospate) which protects them from wear.

 

I don't use a multigrade oil -- see no point in it for my TR. I use straight SAE 30 Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil, with 1400 ppm Zn. Multigrade shouldn't hurt anything, although 20W-60 seems a little on the high side of the viscosity range.

Edited November 16, 2016 by Don H.

[Ian Vincent]

I can't see any reason why not. I assume they are both synthetic multigrades.

 

Rgds Ian

[monty]

I can't see any reason why not. I assume they are both synthetic multigrades.

 

Rgds Ian

Doubt they are synthetic but possibly semi. I use Millers Classic Sport 20/50 semi or Millers Classic 20/50 which is non synthetic.

Incidentally once again Millers have changed their designation with a change to silly tin cans & a huge hike in price!

[RogerH]

Hi Ian/Austin,

I think they are pretty standard Mineral oils designed for the older car.

 

Roger

[Guest ntc]

Hi Ian/Austin,

I think they are pretty standard Mineral oils designed for the older car.

 

Roger

Correct

However I would not use both of them unless the engine is is good order and done at least 5000 miles.

[MostEasterlySteve]

Not referring to any particular poster but in general I see that people bandy these zinc numbers around like they understand them. I certainly don't have huge knowledge of the issue but I do know that more does not equal better. High zinc levels may well protect tappets and cam lobes but in a car not used very frequently it will do more harm than good by causing corrosion during down time. These oils with 1400 ppm and more are over-endowed with zinc for occasional use cars (like the majority of classics). 1000-1200 is probably best but anything above 700 is probably adequate.

 

Back on topic (!) I see no issues with mixing any oils together as long as the viscosities are the same or very similar.

[Tom Boyd]

Correct

However I would not use both of them unless the engine is is good order and done at least 5000 miles.

 

Please explain

[monty]

Please explain

Yes I wondered why!

Neil?

[Hamish]

I think it's because it has to have been round the block a few times before mixing it's drink !!?

[McMuttley]

5,000 miles - TICK

Engine in good order - errrr uummmm yeah - TICK

 

For sale, TR3A with fresh oil change (get it now before old prices go up again)

[Guest ntc]

A search will tell you all not just on here .

[Don H.]

Not referring to any particular poster but in general I see that people bandy these zinc numbers around like they understand them. I certainly don't have huge knowledge of the issue but I do know that more does not equal better. High zinc levels may well protect tappets and cam lobes but in a car not used very frequently it will do more harm than good by causing corrosion during down time. These oils with 1400 ppm and more are over-endowed with zinc for occasional use cars (like the majority of classics). 1000-1200 is probably best but anything above 700 is probably adequate.

 

Back on topic (!) I see no issues with mixing any oils together as long as the viscosities are the same or very similar.

 

The literature is full of technical articles on ZDDP, and I won't pretend to have reviewed even a fraction of them. Here's a recent publication that helps paint a picture in the mind of the mechanism by which ZDDP protects wear surfaces -- I found that useful.

 

I'd love to read more about optimum ZDDP levels, and especially the link to corrosion with too-high Zn, if you have any references.

 

The Valvoline VR1 Racing oil I use is the street-legal version. Per this FAQ, it's 1300 ppm Zn, compared to what have been the the not-street-legal version that I got the figure of 1400 ppm Zn.

[Tom Boyd]

A search will tell you all not just on here .

 

Yes on here please Neil. You mentioned it so please explain

[Ian Vincent]

The reason I assumed the oils are synthetic is the fact that they are 20-60w. How would they achieve that viscosity without going to at least semi synthetic?

 

Rgds Ian

[Don H.]

The reason I assumed the oils are synthetic is the fact that they are 20-60w. How would they achieve that viscosity without going to at least semi synthetic?

 

Rgds Ian

 

Synthetic polymer additives called viscosity index improvers added to a mineral oil base.

[McMuttley]

I use finely ground metals water and air to add to the viscoflow

[Don H.]

I use finely ground metals water and air to add to the viscoflow

 

Ever the salesman for the car, aren't you, Austin?

[Eddie Cairns]

There is no legal necessity for an oil blender selling a mineral oil with synthetic additives to describe the oil as anything other than mineral oil.

 

Just like there is no upper or lower level of synthetic additive added to mineral oil to allow it to be called semi synthetic.

 

With regards to the 20W/60 product mentioned it may or may not be part synthetic.

 

In my opinion and it is worth little as I am not an oil chemist, I assume that there may be some synthetic product in there as these additives are not that expensive.

[Richardtr3a]

Come on NTC what does it mean?

[GT6M]

Come on NTC what does it mean?

Only thing I can think off, is its got anti wear additives innit,

IF,its a new engine, then it wont bed as easy or as soon

 

This wot yer think,n N

 

BUTT, alott of the running in oils ev got anti wear additives and 12-1400 P ZDDP

{ Morris tech said this wen I got 2 gal of 15/39 running in oil }

 

20/60 light Penerite aint syth,or part synth

 

the 20/60 + is fully syth, and 2,200 PPM ZDDP

never ever seems t,go off, even after high revs and 4K miles, still as clean as It wer put in

 

M

[monty]

Come on NTC what does it mean?

Don't bother! We can make our own minds up!

[Don H.]

...20/60 light Penerite aint syth,or part synth

 

the 20/60 + is fully syth, and 2,200 PPM ZDDP...

 

Penrite would seem to differ. They note Penrite Classic Light 20W-60 is a mineral oil, with 1600 ppm Zn.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_viscosity=118&id_products=638

[Guest ntc]

Only thing I can think off, is its got anti wear additives innit,

IF,its a new engine, then it wont bed as easy or as soon

 

This wot yer think,n N

 

 

Spot on if in doubt ask Revington, they and others say 8000 miles before changing to anything above 20/50

Edited November 17, 2016 by ntc

[Nigel Triumph]

I used Millers 20w60 in my GT6 when the engine was old and tired, as an alternative to the usual 20w50. Oil pressure when hot on the worn engine was a little better and it seemed to run a little quieter, a bit less mechanical thrumming noise at speed. The proper answer was to rebuild the engine.

 

I wouldn't normally use thicker than 20w50 for one of 'our' engines but if you happen to have some 20w60 it won't cause any harm.

 

 

Nigel