foster461 Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 One of the more disappointing post-restoration issues that I have paint lifting off the area under the bracket where the master cylinders are mounted. I searched for a leak on one of the pipe connections and found nothing. This morning I noticed a black stain on the area under and just to the left of the reservoir. The only place that could have come from is the lid of the reservoir and sure enough the rim around the top of the reservoir was full of hydraulic fluid. The black is coming from the black paint of the reservoir dissolving. The odd thing is the reservoir is not full to the top. I filled it just enough to cover the central tube. So I wonder why is it leaking, did I do something wrong when I assembled it ?. The entire system is new. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Mine is doing the same, Stan. It was fine for a couple of years when the car first came on the road, but when a well-respected shop took care of my broken stub axle (and consequently brakes), the reservoir builds fluid around the rim and the paint has all stripped off. I try to keep it from getting worse, but I haven't exactly figured out why. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 It is common with repro caps many fit a sponge ring on the outside like pipe lagging. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Mine's the original reservoir and cap, Neil. Your emoticon is right on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 Is this just a cap seal problem and is this caused by fluid getting pushed out or is it just from fluid slopping around and finding its way out of the lid ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 It is common with repro caps many fit a sponge ring on the outside like pipe lagging. Great idea, thanks Neil. I just bought a lifetime supply of TR3 hydraulic reservoir cap foam from the hardware store for $2. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G Denson Posted July 13, 2016 Report Share Posted July 13, 2016 I had the same problem. Purchased a new cap from Rimmers and it still leaked! Found it impossible to unscrew the cap by hand so resorted to using "She who must be obeyed" gadget for opening tight jam jars. I think it is called a " Tricky Dicky" When I screwed the cap back I gave it an extra tweak with said TD and hey-presto no more leaking. I have since removed the cap ,with the aid of the the TD and still no leakage. It may be just coincidence or luck but doing the cap up that extra little bit seems to have worked in my case. Cheers Gordon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 I have found the same thing,if you can get the cap tight enough it seals ok Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 Recently had to strip & re-paint my resovoir as the paint was peeling off. Whilst at it I noticed a small tear in the original seal in the cap. dug it all out, & replaced with a rubber seal stolen from a corresponding sized cap from my Gunson easybleed kit (which I don't use any more) So far so good. I also noticed that the paint under the resovior, & around the cylinder mount base was affected. Not peeling, but more "pickled" looking. This paint was two pack, so it seems more able to resist the nasty stuff, but only partially. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 same here... M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Staffs Man Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 Staffs Man. Yes they all seem to leak, after a lot of fiddling about trying all sorts of combinations and fixes,the answer is to remove the flat rubber seal and replace with an O ring dimensions ID mm=37.50 x 3.55mm. Totally degrease the inside of the cap,place a few spots of superglue to the O ring and fit the ring into the cap this type of seal will stop the brake fluid seeping up the threads of the cap this being the source of the leak. and ensure you don't over fill the reservoir tank. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 Staffs Man. Yes they all seem to leak, after a lot of fiddling about trying all sorts of combinations and fixes,the answer is to remove the flat rubber seal and replace with an O ring dimensions ID mm=37.50 x 3.55mm. Totally degrease the inside of the cap,place a few spots of superglue to the O ring and fit the ring into the cap this type of seal will stop the brake fluid seeping up the threads of the cap this being the source of the leak. and ensure you don't over fill the reservoir tank. . Thanks Mr Staffs Man, you should stop by more often. This sounds like yet another quality problem or an original design flaw that has never been fixed. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 14, 2016 Report Share Posted July 14, 2016 ...This sounds like yet another quality problem or an original design flaw that has never been fixed... Another opportunity for the PQI, or possibly a perfect case for TR Platinum! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 This was always a problem with this type of tank from when the cars were new. the new repro ones have an extra rubber seal very similar to the one under the magnetic type of fuel filler cap found on US market cars, whether this is available separately I dont know but it does seem to be a better option. Screwing the cap up tight does help as does something wrapped round the lid like a hair band.MK2 Mini plastic reservoir caps with the level indicator built in works quite well too. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 This was always a problem with this type of tank from when the cars were new. the new repro ones have an extra rubber seal very similar to the one under the magnetic type of fuel filler cap found on US market cars, whether this is available separately I dont know but it does seem to be a better option. Screwing the cap up tight does help as does something wrapped round the lid like a hair band.MK2 Mini plastic reservoir caps with the level indicator built in works quite well too. Stuart. The repro unit that I fitted does have a large rubber washer in the lid, around 1/8 inch thick. I assume the problem is that the lid is not screwing down far enough for this seal to do its job. For now I have resorted to filling the channel around the top of the can with a length of paper towel rolled into a tube and topping that off with a collar of the foam pipe insulation. I regret not filling the system with silicone. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 To add to my post above, the new seal (stolen from my Gunsun easybleed kit) is working. Did 360 odd miles to Lincoln & back, + some local mileage, & still bone dry on the outside. So I think all you need is a thicker seal. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 (edited) The repro unit that I fitted does have a large rubber washer in the lid, around 1/8 inch thick. I assume the problem is that the lid is not screwing down far enough for this seal to do its job. For now I have resorted to filling the channel around the top of the can with a length of paper towel rolled into a tube and topping that off with a collar of the foam pipe insulation. I regret not filling the system with silicone. Stan Another example of sh*tty aftermarket stuff sold by the 'usual suspects' for the price of pure gold... (46 gap/55 euros/60 US dollar for a tin...). Like we already have accepted the flaw ("...they all leak!" "... mine has the same..."). Point is, that their lack of interest for the products they sell, will not be reflected in the 'Gold' quality sign the TRR is handing out... Menno Edited July 23, 2016 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 I have just fitted a new one.....I will go an use some engineers blue and see if that seal works........I dont want to repaint the engine bay again! Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spit_2.5PI Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 The repro unit that I fitted does have a large rubber washer in the lid, around 1/8 inch thick. I assume the problem is that the lid is not screwing down far enough for this seal to do its job. For now I have resorted to filling the channel around the top of the can with a length of paper towel rolled into a tube and topping that off with a collar of the foam pipe insulation. I regret not filling the system with silicone. Stan When silicone drips down by the pedals, it makes an immovable stain on suede shoes But at least my paint work's intact! Cheers, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 The repro unit that I fitted does have a large rubber washer in the lid, around 1/8 inch thick. I assume the problem is that the lid is not screwing down far enough for this seal to do its job. For now I have resorted to filling the channel around the top of the can with a length of paper towel rolled into a tube and topping that off with a collar of the foam pipe insulation. I regret not filling the system with silicone. Stan The ones over here have a full rubber seal not just a ring which the originals had, this is better. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Ranting about shitty aftermarket parts and castigating suppliers isn't likely to win friends and influence people . . . . . As a teenager (half a century ago) I was taught to hand tighten the master cylinder caps, and then 'nip up' with water pump pliers to seal properly. Thus far, the technique has worked. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 About the pump pliers: good call mentioning this! I remember this too: working with my dad on his Austins. Commenting on the suppliers: I think I'm rather nice to them! Luckily, my engine bay hasn't been affected by the use of this aftermarket 'can of beans'... I don't need to tell you how owners will react when they see brake fluid dripping on fresh paint! And I don't think that supplier will pick up the bill of a respray because he has sold that sh*tty part - even when he's responsible for selling inferior goods / products. Making friends? Only stating that this product should never make it to Gold status; A product potentially causing failure and causing havoc on paint should be taken off the shelf and be ditched for a proper replacement. Influencing people: oh yes! Trying to convince those who are involved to come up with a proper item. 45+ GBP for a tin can, you should be able to come up with a proper product! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Fully agree with you Menno. Theses items are not made carefully enough. My reservoir is vibrating against the bonnet. The pipe bends are very tight underneath and if you leave out the rubber gasket it will clear the underside of the bonnet. My local welder has cut 20mm out of my spare cylinder and it is now welded back up. I have asked him yo make a machined edge so that the gasket has something substantial to rest on. This is work in progress and I will report later. Richard & H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 I think the other problem is the very coarse thread in the lid and can it is almost impossible to get a proper seal because its always going to be a bit cockeyed . The O ring fix is the way to go. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 A few years ago, following a tip from someone in the club, I found a plastic lid for the brake master cylinder on my TR4. It seals perfectly and is so much easier to remove than the alloy version, which tended to jam. I realise that the lid for the master cylinder on the sidescreen cars is a different size, but is there not a plastic lid available somewhere? Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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