cotswold Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Hi there does anyone know if you can get bolt on wires for a TR6. I must admit that I didn't know bolt on wires even existed until I saw an advert for an MGB with them fitted. They look very good and I would like to have a set to interchange with my steel wheels for summer use. Thanks Charles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OAF939M Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 You can buy bolt on kits at several places. The hubs bolt on and the have splined spinners to fit the wheels. Never used them but they look good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Dayton could probably find something to fit. http://www.daytonwirewheels.com/directbolt.php Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 (edited) http://shop.mwsint.com/productslist.asp?catid=149&pagenum=1 http://www.pjhallewellengineering.co.uk/ Give em a whirl. MGB owners went for bolt of wheels because to do it right you need hub assy's which incorporate the splined adaptor like a TR2 Lockheed assy. However on an MGB - The wire wheel rear axle assy less hubs is a different length to the steel wheel version meaning you need an entire rear axle assy to do the conversion correctly. - only MG could do that. But it did keep the front to rear track near equal. There are of course now bolt on hubs for these cars copied from that futuristic Triumph design of 1956. Peter W Edited December 19, 2015 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Why do you need Steel wheels? They look so plain compared to Wire wheels, which look more Classic. Triumph offered them as an optional extra, glad my original owner specified them, they've been no trouble these past 43 years. Easy conversion to do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Why do you need Steel wheels? They look so plain compared to Wire wheels, which look more Classic. Triumph offered them as an optional extra, glad my original owner specified them, they've been no trouble these past 43 years. Easy conversion to do. Wires look good but they are high maintenance if you use the car a lot. I am making provision for both on my TR3 and plan to use steel wheels for general running around and put the wires on for special occasions. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OAF939M Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 (edited) I have become interested in this topic. I would like to fit 15x5.5 wire wheels to my 1973 TR6 for summer use and return to the original factory steel wheels for the winter. I already have five very good factory steel wheels with new 165x15 tyres fitted to the car. I would run new tyres of the same size tyres on the wire wheels. So I would have two sets of wheels and tyres To fit the wire wheels I understand that it is necessary to cut the wheel studs as they protrude into the conversion "hub" If this is the case then obviously I cannot fit the steel wheels back on without replacing the studs. So, have I got this right? Lister Edited December 19, 2015 by OAF939M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 I have become interested in this topic. I would like to fit 15x5.5 wire wheels to my 1973 TR6 for summer use and return to the original factory steel wheels for the winter. I already have five very good factory steel wheels with new 165x15 tyres fitted to the car. I would run new tyres of the same size tyres on the wire wheels. So I would have two sets of wheels and tyres To fit the wire wheels I understand that it is necessary to cut the wheel studs as they protrude into the conversion "hub" If this is the case then obviously I cannot fit the steel wheels back on without replacing the studs. So, have I got this right? Lister You could add a spacer between the splined adaptor and your hub and not have to hack your studs shorter. Peter W not unlike http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/wheel-trims-alloys/ripspeed-9-5mm-alloy-wheel-spacer-kit-4-5-stud Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OAF939M Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Thank you Peter, assuming the spacers are readily available, (I will check your link) would they push the wheel out into the wing, or would it probably be OK with 165 tyres? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 TR Shop do some nice 6mm spacers that will do the trick, dont forget you need both sets of nuts and the wire hubs must be correctly torqued, clearance is fine especially on 165`s. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 I have the 7x16 Morgan wheels from MWS in use with standard steel wheel bolts. I was interested to swap between my Ronal Alloys and the wires and the space behind the bolts was enough to fit without touching. I would give other wires from MWS a try before I try something else. Why should they provide different space behind the studs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OAF939M Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 Thank you Stuart, I tried to get into TR Shop website yesterday but it was not working, will try again after tea and a mince pie (singular). Lister Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 You need to differentiate between wire wheels which bolt to the hub, and wire wheels which fit to a splined adaptor which in turn is bolted to the hub. Splined versions are retained in place with a functional spinner. Non-splined versions frequently have a dummy octagonal cap. I think the original post was for the former, whereas most of the later posts are for the latter which is the fitment specified by Triumph. Both types are heavy, high maintenance and get floppy after a few years, but they look the dogs'. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OAF939M Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 I'm looking for knock on spinner type with splined bolt on hubs. Same as I have on my 1936 Riley 9 Special, except those hubs are original equipment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 When you swap wheels during the year remember that your spare wheel can be fitted when necessary. A bolt on w/w can be replaced with a steel wheel, but in case of splines it might request a little more work, and don't forger to take some extra bolts along Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cotswold Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Thank you Peter, assuming the spacers are readily available, (I will check your link) would they push the wheel out into the wing, or would it probably be OK with 165 tyres? Problem then that surely the tyres protrude the wheel arch? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cotswold Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) You could add a spacer between the splined adaptor and your hub and not have to hack your studs shorter. Peter W not unlike http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/wheel-trims-alloys/ripspeed-9-5mm-alloy-wheel-spacer-kit-4-5-stud Yes that is exactly what I am looking for a simple bolt on wire wheel not conversion of hubs to splines each time.Those bolt on wires suggested above made by Dayton look good I will investigate and post a response. Edited January 29, 2016 by cotswold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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