Richardtr3a Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 I have replaced my timing chain cover and oil seal. This week end I will replace the fan extension and the long bolt. I presume that since I will not be using the started handle it does not matter if the starter dog is not in the correct position. But what torque should I be trying for. I have a socket and a torque wrench, but the corners of the bolt look damaged and I am a bit nervous that the socket might lose grip. Also while I have the front panel off the car, what else should I do with such easy access. I bought new engine mounts and new earth straps. The radiator has been away for an overhaul and I have new hoses. I would be grateful for any help. Richard & H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) . Edited November 20, 2015 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Richard, I have never seen a factory spec for tightening that bolt but when I researched this during my engine rebuild the speculation seemed to be in the 75 to 140 lbs ft range. Since my torque wrench didn't go up that far I just put the gearbox in gear, chocked the wheels and aimed for "bloody tight" with a 2 ft breaker bar. I see others that made special braces that bolt to the flange for the fan. If you google "TR3 fan bolt torque" or "TR4 fan bolt torque" you will find the same discussions that I did. Sounds like you are in good shape with the rest of it, just run it for a while and check for leaks before you put the nose back on. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) The Stag has 120 lb ft specified for it so given the cross specification of similar sized(if not directly comparable) components that's what the TR is set at. Mick Richards Edited November 13, 2015 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) . Edited November 20, 2015 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hpremote Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Richard: re. 'to-dos, while the front apron is off', how about checking/replenishing the oil in your steering box and taking up any slackness there by re-setting the adjustment bolt? You are then likely to have to re-position the steering wheel on the column splines. Apologies if this sounds like a Granny/egg-sucking tutorial... Also, if you want to install a puller fan on the engine side of the rad, now is an excellent opportunity. And if you do change to an electric fan, why not use just a short bolt to replace the long extension and bolt? Cheers, Tim. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 The crank bolt 108498 is NLA, as far as I'm aware, and has been for a long time . . . . we have to make do with used bolts. If the bolt head looks rough, then dress it with a fine file and use a 6 point socket - or if it's really bad, consider taking it down a smidgeon to the next smallest socket that will fit, whether that's AF, Metric or Whitworth. As Mick suggests, a good wadge over the ton seems appropriate ! 75lbs for sure isn't enough, not by some considerable margin. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 The crank bolt 108498 is NLA, as far as I'm aware, and has been for a long time . . . . we have to make do with used bolts. TR6 has a similar bolt with round edges. As I am German with German tools I put the bolt on a grinder and reduced bolt to the next metric size that I can grab with my 6 corner metric sockets. In addition I bought a 3/4" air wrench from flee market and can now handle the bolts very easy and reliable without need to lock the crank to turn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 In my experience all the 4 pot crank bolts have rounded corners on the hexagon. Best tool is a single hex socket of the right size 1 1/8"AF I believe. Do up as tight as you can, handbrake on in top gear. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Why are the hex corners rounded? IIRC the bolt on the TR6 is mild steel, not HT. I had one sheer and was able to drill it out OK. So what torque should it take, are the corners rounded to prevent overtorqeuing? Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 TR2 - 4A workshop manuals do not give a torque figure, they just tell you to shim under the head to get the starting handle dogs in the correct place. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 As Mick suggests, a good wadge over the ton seems appropriate ! 75lbs for sure isn't enough, not by some considerable margin. I have always followed the manual on this which for GT6/Vitesse says 90-100 and 2000/2.5 PI says 90-110, but I have always wondered as I dont have any extension or fan fitted if it actually needs to be that high? I don't know on the TR3/4 engines but on the 6 pots its on a key, so without the extension and fan does it really need to be a 100+? or are there real world examples of them coming off? Just wondering... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 From the number of pulleys I've seen with 3 or 4 mm wider grooves caused by the key worn into the sides of the original keyway...Yes ! Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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