McMuttley Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I am installing the ridgards in the 3a. They are now mounted to Moss' universal TR6 runners. By some stroke of luck, the 3a and Moss runners have exactly the same width/centres. Front two holes work, OK, but the rear don't line up. Question..... I assume that rather than drilling more holes in the floor, I should drill the runners to take bolts through the existing 3a holes? See red circles on runners. As the floor has no captive bolts, just holes, this would work. Is 4 bolting points 2 front/back OK, in which case I can just plug the middle holes. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) I can't answer the question Austin but if I'd marked it out on the dining room floor I'd have been for the high jump. 4 mounting points seems ok for the 4A. Edited October 25, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Breakfast bar in kitchen - I'll just have to be careful when drilling ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I can't answer the question Austin but if I'd marked it out on the dining room floor I'd have been for the high jump. I'm sure that as long as you used dry wipe or non-permanent marker pens you'd be fine. It all adds to the fine patina of the wood you know! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SuzanneH Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Don't use nail varnish remover to remove the marks, the plastic may melt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) Your going to create a weak point in the runner at the rear by drilling in between 2 existing holes,if I was you and going the route you want to I would make up 2 elongated washers about 2/3" long and drill in centre to fit inside the sliding rail,this would then give it back some strength in that area,weld them in for a better job. Edited October 25, 2015 by TR NIALL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Your going to create a weak point in the runner at the rear by drilling in between 2 existing holes,if I was you and going the route you want to I would make up 2 elongated washers about 2/3" long and drill in centre to fit inside the sliding rail,this would then give it back some strength in that area,weld them in for a better job. Something like this from the MGB front wing attachment perhaps? - Not sure what size the hole is though. http://www.leacyclassics.com/afh2546.html or http://www.leacyclassics.com/afh2627.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Austin, I have fitted the tr6 runners to my 3A to take the BF Torino seats, This are the narrow version seats. Many seats are too wide for a 3 and are very restricted in adjustment. I suppose you carefully checked the position of the seats in the car as in my case the runners did not line up at all with the floor holes when the seats were positioned in the car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 The picture freaked me out too but on closer inspection I see he has a piece of transparent plastic between the runner and the counter top so we can all stop cringing now, there will be no wallop with a rolling pin for Austin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Something like this from the MGB front wing attachment perhaps? - Not sure what size the hole is though. http://www.leacyclassics.com/afh2546.html or http://www.leacyclassics.com/afh2627.html That's exactly what I'm on about or something similar. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thanks all, much appreciated, agree they will need strengthening, I used a wickes metal stap as a temp to spread the load ( just need Lidl to sell welding machines!) they are a tight fit, but in. i think it was a pure fluke that the runners and alignment worked without serious tweaking also many thanks the the PO of the seats who set them up to fit univeral runners and fabricated a lock stop this set up would not work for a taller person in a sidescreen, the seat is one notch from the back, then it hits the seat belt reel ( could be moved to gain 2 clicks) nor would it work with the original wheel as the seat is quite high at the front looks neater and more in keeping than in the pic thanks again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 aw, Stan you have spoilt the illusion. We were hoping Austin would be showing a bump on his head next time he showed his face. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Try Aldi for a welder. Hurry, there may a few left! https://www.aldi.co.uk/en/specialbuys/sun-25-oct/product-detail/ps/p/arc-welder-2/ Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Don't bother with a plain arc welder, they are only good for welding material over about 2mm thick unless you are very good at welding. For thin car stuff you need a MIG or TIG, (and TIG isn't easy without a bit of practice). Rgds Ian PS I have some 1mm rods and even they aren't thin enough to allow me to arc weld car sheet metal with confidence. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I can't solder, so I doubt I'll be able to arcmigtig ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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