Clarkey Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 (edited) Just thought I would post a couple of pics The job so far, diff out, driveshafts,hubs, polly bush the trailing arms. So its going well, bushes out of the trailing arms( how fun is that ) I didn't fancy taking off the rear brakes so I used the Racetorations suspension mod to hang the rear brakes off Trailing arms have been painted black by the PO, so i will jet them off. The old rubber bushes were made by Metzeler so I guess they were good ones at the time. Edited January 15, 2015 by Clarkey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Well done that man good fun yes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Like the suspension mod to support the brakes. Make sure you get the TA bolts in the right way round when reassembling. Looking good hard work done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted January 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 Hi Robin. I certainly will, i removed them with an angle grinder as I didn't want to undo the brackets from the chassis just incase when i withdrew the bolts the hollow tubes had corroded so much they fall down into the chassis And i didn't use too many grown up words..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Clarkey i trust you are well its been a while since we had a chat this time of year and work commitments i sent mine to Matt at S and M for the tracking to be lasered and a tune up and anything else they can find i have done what you are doing so its not too bad as long as your heater is on cheers david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Martin, you got 2 nice holes in the upper bracket corners , bolt them firmly to the wheel arch, whatever they say it might safe you some troubles later on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) Hi Jean I have been told that that is not needed as the brackets are strong enough to use the two holes in the chassis,where the original lever arms were bolted.I check them regularly for tightness Edited January 24, 2015 by Clarkey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Clarkey  I have a similar shock/minilites setup but had an issue w tyres rubbing on the suspension tower. Also need new tyres but anxious whether 205s will fit ok (much easier to source good ones than the 185s it's running)  What camber and tyres are you running? Does it need a spacer (not permitted down here...) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Yes Martin they look the buisiness, but the weak spot on the 6 is the bridge between chassis members, especially the meeting point. Realize the chassis is rather thin, made of much finer material than most people think. Â it seems that the towers tend to flex at the top under load and after a certain time the bridge displays cracks where it meets the chassis. I have seen it myself on at least 5 cars and have been told about it on many more. Â In my local garage after repair they add a strut from the top to the back of the chassis, as in most cases there is no possibility to bolt it to the wheel arch. Would like to mention these people belong to the top on the Continent with regard to TRs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Jean I have used the above for over 20000 miles with some hard use and never had an issue,guess there chassis was kaput. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) Martin, you got 2 nice holes in the upper bracket corners , bolt them firmly to the wheel arch, whatever they say it might safe you some troubles later on. Jean, Yes I had too do that. I found the top of the bracket was being levered forward and backwards, pivoting on the two bolts. I could see the marks on the underseal. That was because the top insertion of the s/absorber is a couple of inches out of alignment with the lever-arm bolt holes. The result was the triangular fillet, made from very thin steel, that runs down from the lever arm mount down the the bottom rail of the chassis, fractured. Both sides. Exactly as you say in post#9. Bolting the bracket to the bodywork behind the top of the s/absorber cured the problem. Peter Edited January 24, 2015 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Jean, Yes I had too do that. I found the top of the bracket was being levered forward and backwards, pivoting on the two bolts. I could see the marks on the underseal. That was because the top insertion of the s/absorber is a couple of inches out of alignment with the lever-arm bolt holes. The result was the triangular fillet, made from very thin steel, that runs down from the lever arm mount down the the bottom rail of the chassis, fractured. Both sides. Exactly as you say in post#9. Bolting the bracket to the bodywork behind the top of the s/absorber cured the problem. Peter Same bracket Peter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 For what it is worth, I use the TR Shop heavy duty brackets, that utilise the original lever arm X2 bolt holes. It also uses the bump stop provision from memory, so locates in 3 places. I also use 7" wheels, with 205/60/15 sticky tyres. I cannot remember if I use a small wheel spacer on the back, but no issues with clearance, or bolts coming loose, be it on track, or on the road. Car was built 2 years ago and 15K miles later. I use Koni shock absorbers. Â Â Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Clarkey  I have a similar shock/minilites setup but had an issue w tyres rubbing on the suspension tower. Also need new tyres but anxious whether 205s will fit ok (much easier to source good ones than the 185s it's running)  What camber and tyres are you running? Does it need a spacer (not permitted down here...) Hi Matt I too have had an issue with tyre rub when i changed from standard tyres to 185, but this was due to having too much weight(I think) in the car on a Lemans trip. Not sure about the camber. I have spacers fitted on the front, and i am thinking about doing the same on the back,I will be setting the rear up properly once i have had the new bushes fitted. Sorry i can't be more help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 No wukkas. Thanks for the reply. If it doesn't work I'll have to sort wheels w different offsets. Too much weight?...too many pies at my end then! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Same bracket Peter? Neil, Yes. Alloy, from well-known racing/restoration supplier about 1990-ish. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 205 will fit no spacers, it is all about getting the geometry set right and removing the famous rear end squat . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Well the trailing arms are coming on, one is ready to go and the other should be after a helicol is fitted to an oversized (metric) foooook up by the P.O. Ill be putting her back together next week so trailing arms , drive shafts ,Hubs, diff all back in   Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Looking good well worth the effort.  Cheers   Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Martin, Â TA's looking really good. How did you clean them and have you painted them. If so, what with? Â Thanks, Â Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted February 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Diff ready to go back on, just the diff mounts to strengthen on Tuesday and hopefully wednesday she will be back on the road......fingers crossed  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 Martin So who rebuilt the diff ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Neil I went with a recon unit from rimmers.new crown wheel and pinion as well which is from bastuck. I know where and who should have had do it but I took advantage of the no vat offer. I suppose I'll have to see if I made the right decision! I fitted the rear casing using 500'C RTV sealer so fingers crossed there willbe no drips on the drive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 So every thing is back as it should be!!!!!!! Will Be taking the 6 to my local garage, just to stick her on the ramp,just to make sure everything is right as it should be, as I've don all the work to the car in axel stands and been lying in my back for the most part. Looking forward to the drive but must take it steady:0) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 MUST TAKE IT STEADY.....yeh right, bet that doesn't last long...have fun. Hope all goes well Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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