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matttnz

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  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
  • Cars Owned:
    Current:
    TR6 1974 CR PI, Mimosa.
    Audi RS3

    Gone, but not forgotten:
    Peugeot 106 rallye clubsport/Golf R32

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  1. Thanks Peter, absolutely a member of the AKL crowd & agreed, it seems this vacuum issue will be the one (hopefully...) Butterflies and throttle linkage should be ok as I've changed the CR sytem (that was worn) to a Racetorations underslung version with rose joint adjusters
  2. Yes please!!!! PM me and I'll flick you my email Thanks v much Peter, I've never come across that but then again; John & I don't have many Triumph autojumbles downunder (or even autojumbles full stop in NZ...). It's all full of Ford and Holden! It took me aaaages to find a CR wiring diagram and it was such a mess I made up the ppt version to clean it up. That was back in 2014, I still haven't seen an easy to locate version online yet.
  3. The team who are working on it have done so and confirmed it was leaking, solved by sealant (assuming loctite or similar) across the threads. This does raise whether the MU needs calibration or whether it was done but unfortunately I received no such documentation as you did (and New South Wales is a h**l of a lot closer than Old North Wales... :/ ). I figured that sending it to the people who know these best would give me the best chance of a well setup MU for the next 10y or so. Perhaps I was wrong. The accepted wisdom I've taken is that if you send it to people who know what they're
  4. Thanks JRD. It does close fully, had been checking off the “usual suspects” mentioned on the forum
  5. Sorry my bad: seal leak is indeed in the screw threads underneath, not the cover itself. Understanding is that they excluded this and leak was sorted with sealant on the threads like recommended above. A new hose might be in the off'ing in near future anyway. Never saw this and maybe that's part of my question. Leak must have been masked by the cold enrichment as you say and was much, much worse when the car had been in traffic. I thought initially that this might be a dodgy fuel pump, but in retrospect the in the heat the MU threads may have opened enough to unmask the leak
  6. Wondering if you guys could help me w some advice. I got my MU rebuilt by Prestige a few months back. Reinstalled by a local outfit and since then the TR has been running beautifully smooth when cold but as she warms up, runs like a pig, especially when under load. Almost undrivable. Taking the TR to another group who specialise in race spec'ing and rebuilds, it turns out the MU which was holding vacuum before, isn't now. 1st assumption was the diaphragm (would have been somewhat disappointing following a recondition) but seems it is actually leaking at the threads around the top
  7. Sounds a nice car... but if it's not and re: "not obsessed about a CP over a CR, condition is main concern, but PI must be still fitted" Might be more of an issue for those of us in the Antipodes than UK but if you're planning on keeping a PI for many many years, consider that the bearded & learned gurus who understand and can fix the PI system are thinning out. (I think we've recently lost Malcom to a hopefully enjoyable retirement?). A US car converted to RHD & EFI (there are nice faux Weber carb systems that have inbuilt injectors) might be a system that gives you modern inje
  8. Might be worth checking the plug on cyl 5 as well?
  9. I love my Lucas PI but that is a beautiful engine bay. Many of the EFI conversions are a bit fugly (even if they are all the more powerful/reliable/efficient etc...)
  10. Dave, I've just replaced my Old Bosch (ex Rimmers) pump w a 044 sourced locally in NZ, $234 NZ pesos so about $150 USD (on discount) https://www.nzperformance.co.nz/categories/bosch-fuel-pumps/bosch-044-external-fuel-pump?gn=BOSCH FUEL PUMPS&gp=2. If your new pump becomes an issue, let me know. Otherwise there'll undoubtedly be an option local in USA designed for the V8 or "Rice racer" market. Agree however that checking the filter is a v good plan. My tank got rust all through it after either people filling the tank in the rain or contamination from poor fuel. When the filter was
  11. Mine has the CR spoiler. Been up on flat beds a few times w zero problems, wheelbarrow exhausts and all...
  12. Try getting stuff to the other side of the globe... :/ Our TR register does a bulk purchase every 6 months. At times there are differences between Rimmers & Moss as well for delivery but I completely agree it'd be very nice to be offered options that weren't greater than the actual part
  13. Agree w RobH, might need more grunt from the alternator. If the issue is the wiring though it's easy to insert a relay in a way that is reversible. I put 2 relays in as below (high and low beam) but 1 for the regular lights could be ok if you're not on high beam often. The screenshot image below connects to a dip switch from a CR so is slightly different from the AAW diagrams. Run a new higher current (fatter) fused wire to where the bullet connectors connect for the headlamps behind the grille. This will minimise voltage drop. This connects to the 30 terminal on the relay which
  14. I found the easiest thing was to swap to a modern flasher unit. They have louder "ticking" which should be easier to hear. Probably the cheapest solution and least amount of wiring changes.
  15. Very happy to. Just PM me your email so the internet bots don't find it and I'll email copies. That goes for everyone who needs a copy. If anyone has a bright idea of how to make it more permanently accessible on the site please let me know. I've fashioned a ppt/pdf from the old original to mimic the AAW circuit diagrams so people can use those to track their own car "updates"
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