Jump to content

Robert Price

Registered User
  • Content Count

    190
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Cars Owned:
    Past TR6
    FNW 410K
    GMP 935J
    BHP 440K
    YNA 169M
    PBK 716H
    OHS 522L
    FKK 927L
    TR4 FUF 944D
    MGC GT SDE 65G

Recent Profile Visitors

741 profile views
  1. Fitted alloy tanks on several TR6's over the years no problem and bought the last one from Rich modified for a larger width spare. Rob
  2. Paul Bishop supplies some heavy duty brackets for these seats or can put you in touch with the guy that makes them, I have had 3 pairs of seats off him over the last few years made my own versions of mounting but the last pair of seats I used these brackets and I found them very good. They use the existing floor holes, just screw one of the large nuts onto the front mounting studs before fitting the seat and the rears straight onto the mtg. brackets the seat sits no higher than the standard position and will have a slight slope up toward the front, which I did not attain with the home made versions which sat a bit high. Rob
  3. I agree with Neil, if you have stops on the butterfly brackets slacken them off, if not just press each one with the engine running. I recently took SU's off a 6 and refitted an injection system and had the same issue. Just one inlet was responsible for increased tickover I could not believe how minute the movement was. Rob
  4. Paul Neil Ferguson Stafford 07977 001571 give him a try. Rob
  5. Start by removing the pads from the RH side and clean the surfaces, it maybe just a build up of dirt. See if you can push the pistons back a little in case one is seized. But you may find it is just brake dust etc. Rob
  6. I have a good usable CP facia available, satin smooth finish with horizontal graining mid brownish open to a reasonable offer for it, please PM me if of interest. Rob
  7. There is on Monday 27th May a Wings and Wheels event at Bidford Gliding and Flying Club, no connection but thought some members may fancy a trip out. http://www.bidfordglidingandflyingclub.co.uk/classic-wings-and-wheels-event-27th-may-2019/ Rob
  8. An update, I have looked into bypass valves in Mahle they all seem to have one however pressures differ. the OC 38 I fitted has a pressure bypass of 1.2 bar (17psi), and I discover it is fitted to fork lifts and tractors etc. a Mann filter W724/1 is 2.2 bar (32lbs), so it looks as though there is a fair difference.However just taken the car for a long drive good and hot things have settled down 35 psi tick over and about 70/75 psi at speed so good advice John. Rob
  9. As this has happened straight after an oil change I am wondering if it is connected with the filter, maybe the Mahle OC 38 has no by pass valve? I have not yet restarted it after looking at the pressure relief valve but I will try another filter just in case, but logic tells me it has to be connected with changing the oil and filter and I think I can rule out the oil as the issue, thanks guys. Rob
  10. Decided to change the oil as I was not sure what the previous owner had in it, bottom end rebuilt apparently about 700 miles ago, pressure was good 20 -25 tick over and 60-65 psi at 2500 rpm about 95 psi cold start up. Put in Vavoline VT1 20-50 and a new Mahle OC 38 filter. Took the car out, pressure when hot 2500 rpm about 80 psi and tick over 55 psi. Checked the relief valve which had been renewed recently seems fine, but an oil leak from the head gasket on the distributor side of engine. Plugs all dry look good colour, no idea why the sudden change, seems much too high to me. Rob
  11. Waldi Have bought some Norma brand ones which are the same thing they look good quality, if anyone has a twin pipe system though the rear 4 clamps need to be a larger size 51-57mm I had to send 4 back as I had not noticed the diameter change. Rob
  12. Prop-shaft removed easily after taking off twin exhausts, one UJ at diff end shot and the other on the way out, slight play in splines according to Prop Tech who now have it. They are putting on new h/duty UJ's and a coated splined shaft, I have already fitted a pair of their drive shafts so things should be good when back together. Had hell of a job getting one joint apart on the exhaust though, the clamp had reduced the diameter, rectified it for reassembly by knocking in gradually a large socket which has pushed it back out and yes I did remove it afterwards! Thank you all for input Rob
  13. That all sound positive, may have to remove the exhaust twin pipes for the front flange though but will see when I get underneath, thanks. Rob
  14. I am going to remove the propshaft in order to fit new UJ's can I do this just from underneath without removing the tunnel, and is there room with the chassis bridge and diff in place to drop the propshaft The manual makes it sound ok but I have been told the tunnel may have to come off which I would rather avoid. Rob
  15. Just seen this post, my car also had the same ring spoke to TRGB and they have only ever seen a couple of cars with this fitted, it goes under the the top half of the bulkhead bracket, Put mine back, also added the rare strut at the top of the steering column which fixes to the bulkhead, made it from a steel tube. Rob
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.