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Robert Price

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About Robert Price

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  • Cars Owned:

    Past TR6
    GMP 935J
    BHP 440K
    YNA 169M
    PBK 716H
    OHS 522L
    FKK 927L
    TR4 FUF 944D
    MGC GT SDE 65G

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  1. An update, I have looked into bypass valves in Mahle they all seem to have one however pressures differ. the OC 38 I fitted has a pressure bypass of 1.2 bar (17psi), and I discover it is fitted to fork lifts and tractors etc. a Mann filter W724/1 is 2.2 bar (32lbs), so it looks as though there is a fair difference.However just taken the car for a long drive good and hot things have settled down 35 psi tick over and about 70/75 psi at speed so good advice John. Rob
  2. As this has happened straight after an oil change I am wondering if it is connected with the filter, maybe the Mahle OC 38 has no by pass valve? I have not yet restarted it after looking at the pressure relief valve but I will try another filter just in case, but logic tells me it has to be connected with changing the oil and filter and I think I can rule out the oil as the issue, thanks guys. Rob
  3. Decided to change the oil as I was not sure what the previous owner had in it, bottom end rebuilt apparently about 700 miles ago, pressure was good 20 -25 tick over and 60-65 psi at 2500 rpm about 95 psi cold start up. Put in Vavoline VT1 20-50 and a new Mahle OC 38 filter. Took the car out, pressure when hot 2500 rpm about 80 psi and tick over 55 psi. Checked the relief valve which had been renewed recently seems fine, but an oil leak from the head gasket on the distributor side of engine. Plugs all dry look good colour, no idea why the sudden change, seems much too high to me. Rob
  4. Waldi Have bought some Norma brand ones which are the same thing they look good quality, if anyone has a twin pipe system though the rear 4 clamps need to be a larger size 51-57mm I had to send 4 back as I had not noticed the diameter change. Rob
  5. Prop-shaft removed easily after taking off twin exhausts, one UJ at diff end shot and the other on the way out, slight play in splines according to Prop Tech who now have it. They are putting on new h/duty UJ's and a coated splined shaft, I have already fitted a pair of their drive shafts so things should be good when back together. Had hell of a job getting one joint apart on the exhaust though, the clamp had reduced the diameter, rectified it for reassembly by knocking in gradually a large socket which has pushed it back out and yes I did remove it afterwards! Thank you all for input Rob
  6. That all sound positive, may have to remove the exhaust twin pipes for the front flange though but will see when I get underneath, thanks. Rob
  7. I am going to remove the propshaft in order to fit new UJ's can I do this just from underneath without removing the tunnel, and is there room with the chassis bridge and diff in place to drop the propshaft The manual makes it sound ok but I have been told the tunnel may have to come off which I would rather avoid. Rob
  8. Just seen this post, my car also had the same ring spoke to TRGB and they have only ever seen a couple of cars with this fitted, it goes under the the top half of the bulkhead bracket, Put mine back, also added the rare strut at the top of the steering column which fixes to the bulkhead, made it from a steel tube. Rob
  9. Job done the car started first time, a couple of injectors were dripping a bit but starting up seems to have succeeded. Just need to get the pressure checked, thank you all. Rob
  10. That gives me a bit more hope, battery is on charge so will have another go tomorrow thank you. Rob
  11. Having fitted an entire new/re-furbished injection system I have put a couple of gallons of V Power in and cranked the engine with the plugs out. I have petrol at the injectors with some pressure when pulling out the needles but no spray as yet. Is this likely to be air bubbles in the new pipework etc. as I have cranked a fair few minutes. I do not have a pressure gauge but the diaphram PRV from Revington has been set according to their instructions to give a roughly correct pressure. Rob
  12. I am thinking about removing the stainless twin pipe system to a single one in order to make more room and keep the exhaust away from the fuel supply pipe over the chassis bridge. Instead of spending out on a new system I was wondering about getting a 2 into one joint and just retaining the one existing pipe which is a large bore and should be ok I would think, has anyone done this? and who might be the best source for the joint as I have not yet measured the size. Rob
  13. Failed to get the seat belt bolt out from the sill, the corners rounded off so before going any further I would like to try one of these grip sockets however I cannot find a source selling individual sockets. Does anyone know of a supplier? A whole set seems an expensive waste especially as I could just leave it alone, but you know how it is! Rob
  14. My mistake the purple/white wires all go to the switches as earths as Dave said but I do not have a purple supply wire for the cubby bulb so am I right in thinking I need to run a supply maybe from the interior light supply wire Rob
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