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Hi John, Thank's a lot for this feedback, I shall consider this option for ma TR6 PI under re-construction.

 

Best regards

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I understand that you have never found an engine which runs worse with multi-electrode plugs.

 

 

I did : 30 years ago, I tried (think it was "Lodge", but not sure) multi electrodes plugs, and the engine running was simply awfull.

Problem immediatly solved with a set of 4 Champions spark plugs, VERY sensibly less expensives (4 times cheaper !).....

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interesting discussion.

So what are the part numbers for multiple electrode MGK and Bosch plugs?

I am trying some Bosch multi electrode and they seem very good but the insulator body is smaller than standard plugs so the leads do not seal properly on them.

regards

mike

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Mike

 

The plugs I used were NGK BUR6ET.

 

Got them off ebay at £8.00 and a bit for the set of 6

 

The car is in the garage for a bit, so that I can clean the fuel filter and do an oil and filter change.

Then if I feel lucky, I'm going to tidy up the PDM mudule to injector lines, they currently make the whole engine compartment look untidy!

 

Neil

Not sure why it will end in tears, but, a guide as to your thinking would be gratefully appreciated, not read a thread yet, that didn't offer new ideas or information.

Edited by wjgco
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Hi,

Just been reading this thread.

I have always used in my CP engine NGK BPR6ET or BCPR6ET and at the moment BPR6IX.

 

My choice was via this chart:

http://www.spitfire6.com/ngk.html

 

The NGK BUR6ET is a surface discharge type? The pictures I have just looked at look like a ***6ET type plug.. Are they surface discharge?

 

I have seen mention of ye old condensers and points. For those of you that wish to use this technology and want the best from it; have you selected the correct size capacitors for use across the points and to ground the + terminal of coil? The correct values here makes more of a difference than a spark plug.

Also if you change your coil type, you really need to look at the points cap (Condenser).

 

A multimeter will help with the + terminal cap selection. A scope or trial and error will get your points condenser to the right value and your points will electrically last much much longer.

 

Cheers,

Iain.

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Iain

 

I would be very interested to know your thoughts on the advantages of the BPR6IX, over the more 'standard' multi electrode plug

 

Via this forum, I have grown all too aware of the potential for poor reliability from these old engine designs, but, am convinced that, with the right combination of spark generation / spark discharge / fuel control / engine temperature control, I will be able to run with confidence.

Already, with just tinkering with the butterflies and fitting the multi electrode plugs, I see a marked improvement in starting and cold running.

 

Next its fuel filter clean and oil and filter change.

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" I have grown all too aware of the potential for poor reliability from these old engine designs "

 

The potential for poor reliability is not down to old engine designs. Back in the day some of us put 6 figure mileages on these engines, as daily workhorses that stood the pace.

 

Poor reliability is usually down to a poorly rebuilt engine, or a poorly executed maintenance and service regime, or often enough both . . . . .

 

Lack of regular use doesn't help either.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Hi,

John? I always used the "T's" since 92 and never had a problem. I use the IX's as they are longer life and wanted a fit and forget. They are single and more expensive, so must be better? Sorry I cant give you an answer.

 

Cheers,

Iain.

Edited by SpitFireSIX
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok

 

Amazon tells me they don't fit a TR6

 

Are there different length threads?

 

Or is Amazon wrong

 

Graze

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They'll fit just fine. I've had that exact code in my 2.5PI.

 

Note that they are resistive plugs (have internal resistor for noise suppression). Some will say that this will cause problems - not in my experience; not even in my Herald with standard ignition.

 

I doubt they are cross referenced against the TR6 in the NGK catalogue which is why Amazon says no.

 

Nick

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They are cross referenced with Champion RN9yc which is a plug listed for the TR6 engine albeit I found a little cold for the way I drive.

Here's a code breaker for NGK spark plugs:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

And one for Champion:

http://www.dinoitalia.com/images/tecnica/candele/Champion-spark-plugs-codes.gif

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They'll fit just fine. I've had that exact code in my 2.5PI.

 

Note that they are resistive plugs (have internal resistor for noise suppression). Some will say that this will cause problems - not in my experience; not even in my Herald with standard ignition.

 

I doubt they are cross referenced against the TR6 in the NGK catalogue which is why Amazon says no.

 

Nick

Thanks Nick

 

They are cross referenced with Champion RN9yc which is a plug listed for the TR6 engine albeit I found a little cold for the way I drive.

Here's a code breaker for NGK spark plugs:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf

And one for Champion:

http://www.dinoitalia.com/images/tecnica/candele/Champion-spark-plugs-codes.gif

Thanks Poolboy

 

Graze

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Gents

 

Before I posed the initial question in this thread, I had been given conflicting information, thus, my enquiry.

 

I will always take the advice of this forum over other sources, the guys here have not let me down yet.

 

Graze

I agree with Alec and Nick, ignore those who are not experienced in the TR art.

 

The BUR6ET plugs are a great advance for me in my '6' and will be std fit for me, until this forum offers an alternative

 

John

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The reason the BUR6ET plugs improve running may be because they replicate an old tuning trick of cutting down the earth electrode on standard plugs. A cut-down earth presents a sharp edge to raise the elctrical field strength and promote the discharge ( think: spike on a lightning conductor)

http://i.imgur.com/PRVpu.jpg

- whereas the standard earth presents a gap with two flat surfaces. Also a cut-down plug uses the sharp 'corner' of the live electrode, further raising field strength to ionise the mixture in the gap better.

The triple earth electrodes simply ensure that erosion of that sharp edge is three times slower, I guess !

Peter

 

 

photo source:

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/509657-289-spark-plugs.html

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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They don't have a sharp edge, the earth electrodes are curved to match the central electrode forming a circular hole through which it protrudes.

Top image here shows it.

http://ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/technical-centre/spark-plugs/alternative-electrode-designs/

 

I think it works because it is, in effect, a side electrode design with the spark directly exposed to the combustion chamber unlike the conventional design where the spark is partly hidden behind the earth electrode.

 

I reckon a single side-electrode would work just as well but the triples are more readily available and last longer.

 

Nick

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They don't have a sharp edge, the earth electrodes are curved to match the central electrode forming a circular hole through which it protrudes.

Top image here shows it.

http://ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/technical-centre/spark-plugs/alternative-electrode-designs/

 

I think it works because it is, in effect, a side electrode design with the spark directly exposed to the combustion chamber unlike the conventional design where the spark is partly hidden behind the earth electrode.

 

I reckon a single side-electrode would work just as well but the triples are more readily available and last longer.

 

Nick

Thanks Nick, another theory bites the dust. That hole will face the squish flow better, whereas the conventional earth might obstruct it. Peter

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Untill it finds it' shortest as I said and will continue to use it.

Correct and direct quote from NGK website.

Do multi ground electrode spark plugs provide simultaneous sparks to each ground electrode every time the plug sparks?

No. No matter how many ground electrodes the plug has, every time the spark plug fires, only one spark occurs between the centre electrode and the ground electrode which has the lowest required voltage or the least distance to travel between the centre and the ground electrode.

 

Stuart.

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