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Interestingly, someone who is no longer a contributor to this forum was totally against the use of this type of plug claiming that to do so would result in engine failure. Whilst I found a lot of his advice very useful, I just couldn't fathom the logic in his opinion on this matter and he refused to elaborate. Being involved in the trade (motorcycles), I decided that he was wrong on this count with no justification for his argument so went ahead and fitted them.

 

Does anyone know exactly what his objection was based upon?

Probably a matter of testiculation.

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Hi,

Just to do an update from what I've found. I also fitted the BUR6ET, and initially I was happy with them (can't recall if I mentioned this in an earlier post in this thread). However 2 years on I've now had 2 plug failures. In my case cyl 6 has always been a little 'mucky' on plug colour and deposits. That cyl developed a mis-fire on a couple of occasions that a plug clean would fix. The next time the plug failed completely. Seems to be shorted out or a failed isolator. Either way only putting in a replacement plug sorted it. Then the other week I had the plug fail in cyl 1. No real reason i could see, a clean didn't fix it but a replacement std plug did. In general my observation is that the gap between isolator and plug outer is much smaller on the BUR6ET, so i feel this can short quite easily.

 

For general info, apart from cyl 6 my engine is generally setup quite well. Goes well, does 28mpg on a run, so I don't think is unusually mucky with plugs but not compared with another TR6 to know for sure.

 

Just my views and observations, if they work well for others all well and good. I'll be returning to std plugs.

 

Cheers J.

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My standard NGK BP6ES plugs were all right until I relocated the car into the hills north of here where the temperature is below zero most mornings. The cold weather means that enriching lever must be on for a lot longer, causing the plugs to foul with carbon.

 

NGK say that the BUR6ET types of plug were developed to resist carbon fouling in the 1990's generation of euro cars. So far, for my car, this seems to be the case.

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Slight high jack of the thread but is there a recommended way to clean BUR6ET's? I fitted a new set but ended up balancing the throttle bodies and bleeding the injectors and now there a bit sooted up. I could always blow my fathers day money on anther new set....

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Slight high jack of the thread but is there a recommended way to clean BUR6ET's? I fitted a new set but ended up balancing the throttle bodies and bleeding the injectors and now there a bit sooted up. I could always blow my fathers day money on anther new set....

 

Just soak them in petrol for a while, then use a wire brush to clean them up. I just rotate round 2 sets doing this.

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I just came back from a 5 day Schwiss-Italy-France trip. No cruising but 25 passes, 2.000km, fast-fast road.

I am driving the Bosch WR78X (4 Elektrode) and been happy so far, they haven't let me down at all.

 

With one of my fellow companions, the spark plug thing came up.

 

Following statement:

the type of spark plug used depends on the type of engine and coil you are driving. It was said that with a High Voltage coil (i.e. Flamethrower), it is better to drive a single elektrode plug and widen the gap accordingly. It makes the spark much greater therefore better combustion. The gap width cannot be increased with 2-3-4 elektrodes plugs.

 

Any thoughts on this?

 

Jochem

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Tripod electrodes seem to me to offer three times the opportunity for the early kernel to be extinguished, compared with conventional earth.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_mge_spark_plugs.pdf

To get the best lean burn from wire plugs I intend indexing them so that earth electrode is out of the line of the squish jet, and not obstructing flame spread towards the exhaust valve, to reduce risk of knock. Which puts the electrode on the side of the plug nearest the inlet valve, where it should cause the least disruption to kernel growth.

Peter

Hi Peter,

 

I have been using NGK wire plugs for the last 2 years in a fully re-built TR6 engine. I have no doubt that the NGK design is based upon the Racing Champion Plug design of the 1950's but they did not last particularly long. But NGK have overcome this problem with their iridium coating, mine have done over 5K now without any problems and number 6 plug does not seem to soot up like before? So they seem to give a cleaner burn!

 

Bruce.

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NGK claimed increased carbon fouling resistance for their multi electrode plugs , which is why I bought them, see the NGK video:

 

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjg3L-G_vXbAhWCMt4KHSD5DNwQwqsBCIYBMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D53yfHLdn41k&usg=AOvVaw0QQe_pQKdnAX6r6UvXMoWI

 

I have iridium plugs in a Holden V8, but that's because changing plugs in a V8 is such a painful process. Iridium plugs are expensive and I don't know how good they are at resisting carbon fouling.

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Well I've had a quick read through and this was the conclusion: "The plug, type-D, that performed the best, was a plug with no ground electrode where the amount of heat loses was the lowest and there was no obstacles affecting the flame growth."

So question is where can one purchase plugs with no ground electrodes?

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I used to use these surface gap in Evinrude/Johnson outboards 50 years ago. They used special a OMC HV transistorized ignition:

 

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwih_9-JsPfbAhUNO7wKHYALC4sQwqsBCCkwAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dq1WoydRDdFQ&usg=AOvVaw3RNJGeIrgCo2OLf2JVP7bM

 

From sound of the video maybe the "Dukes of Hazzard" also favoured them.

 

I considered these for my TR but I don't know if my coil would reliably fire this type of plug.

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NGK claimed increased carbon fouling resistance for their multi electrode plugs , which is why I bought them, see the NGK video:

 

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjg3L-G_vXbAhWCMt4KHSD5DNwQwqsBCIYBMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D53yfHLdn41k&usg=AOvVaw0QQe_pQKdnAX6r6UvXMoWI

 

I have iridium plugs in a Holden V8, but that's because changing plugs in a V8 is such a painful process. Iridium plugs are expensive and I don't know how good they are at resisting carbon fouling.

 

My understanding also is that the iridium plug is a long-life plug developed for use in modern front-wheel-drive engines where plug access is extremely difficult and/or time consuming. In the early days when these first became available to us we were told that they were far more resistant to fouling in 2-stroke race bikes because the heat of the iridium centre electrode would keep the porcelin clean in a small circular pattern at its base. However, we quickly found out that this was not the case and went back to using standard plugs at a fraction of the cost.

 

The lesson learnt was that in ideal operating environment they will last a very long time - presumably due to a lower rate of electrode erosion - but in less than ideal operating conditions they are just as prone to fouling as any other plug.

 

Gavin

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