Rodbr Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Don't you just love when you buy replacement parts that are only half there! New trunnions with no grease nipple, easy you might think just clean up the old ones and re-use. Nah totally different thread from original and also semi detached plate at the bottom which should leak grease nicely. Anyone know the nipple size and thread for Reproduction trunnion. Also solder the cap or epoxy metal over it, to get it grease tight? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BillS Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Don't know thread but have a used spare, yours if it helps, pm your address and I'll get it to you. Cheers, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Nipples do not come with trunnions either... Yes a good game. Or as a German once asked when complaining of a noisy rebuilt gearbox - Is it possible that this gearbox was delivered with no oil in it? Soft or silver solder the plates into the trunnions. It is such a shame that the makers get this so wrong. Do not try to peen the edge yourself as the edge clinching the cap may crack off. I knocked my grease caps out and rethreaded them so my chosen new grease nipples fitted perfectly. Your choice straight, 45 degree or 90 degree. What is easiest for you when you come to service it. I pump mine full with EP140. Have you tried the trunnions on the V posts yet? That is possibly another nightmare waiting in the wings. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 So far no issues about fit to v links as yet. Even dry the spin up is free. What are the checks to confirm fit ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 A kind TR member sent me a pair of nipples in the hope that they were the right thread. Arrived this morning and got them about half way down and the steel cap started to turn. Why do they get it so far wrong? Luckily got them back out so now to solder they bloody things. Is there any special preparation to solder them and should it be done with them fitted to Upright or just bare on the vice? I remember the last set I did andI thought it was a one off but it took a hell a lot of heat and effort to get a solder to stick and seal between the brass and steel cap. B0**ocks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 It must be a common problem. I did not have trouble fitting the nipples, but when I try to pump grease in about 50% of it squirts out between the trunnions & the caps. I started to try to peen the bronze over to seal, but as mentioned above it did not work, & started to damage the bronze, so I stopped. Will live with it till next time I have to strip that area down, then I will solder them. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Hi Rod, normal plumbers solder and flux should work but you may need to 'tin' the steel first. It will take a lot of heat as the trunnion is big and soaks it up. If you go for silver solder you will need even more heat as the steel will be red hot. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Hi I don't want to sound a plank, But could you not glue them in with a good metal resin, Pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 When I want to solder steel I use the paste that is used for lead body filler. Paint it on and heat up - clean of the excess flux and the job's done. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Hi Ian, that would be Tinning. Lead doesn't like tio stick to steel but likes Tin. Tin likes steel. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 (edited) Tech7 an old Penny/Coin or something similar to the Base of the Trunnion. Edited May 7, 2014 by TR NIALL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
c.hydes Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Front Trunnions. Hi, I am new to the forum, Colin Hydes, from Wimborne, Dorset with a 1974 TR6 PI. I want to check/refill the front trunnions, and read somewhere that you need to take the weight of the suspension preferably by jacking it up prior to refilling. Anyone know exactly what the procedure is here, ie., just jack up the chassis and let the wheels hang down loose? Colin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hi Colin, welcome to the forum. I have a 4A but things should be similar. Are you using grease or thick oil. Procedure same for both. You can fill and the jack and give it some more. Or, jack it up, fill and then give some more when on the ground. If using grease, look at whats coming out and see if the new grease replaces it - usually quite awkward. if ever you need to attack the front road springs it could be worth while going a bit further and strip down everything, clean, re-grease and rebuild. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
c.hydes Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hello Roger thanks for the welcome. Here`s my reply to your comments/questions: I was not going to ask about whether to be a "greaser" or "oiler" as there seems to have been loads of pros or cons on multiple TR 6 websites. At present I have put grease in, albeit after epoxy repairing the bottom plate as it popped off when I last refilled. Whats your experience and recommendation, and if oil how do I get all the grease out without a major strip down? So what you are saying is, it doesn't really matter to take the weight off the suspension when refilling - correct? Cheers, Colin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 You'll have the wheels off unless you have a lift or you are a contortionist so the suspension will hang and the issue is moot. I use CV joint grease in mine and have done throughout my Triumph ownership. It stays in there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 7, 2016 Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 Hi Colin, like Pete I also use grease but LM. The users are split on what is best for them. Thick or semi solid oil is worth a thought. Taking the weight off the suspension will allow a film of grease/oil to be deposited on the pressure face of the trunion thread. I've never had a problem with wear on the threads and have had them for 17 years/170K miles. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 Rather than soldering, might JB Weld provide the answer? If everything is completely clean and free of oil/grease, it should glue the steel plate into the trunnion. I've used Castrol LM grease for over 50 years in TR trunnions - works well and makes life eay, as that's what goes into all the other grease nipples. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 LM grease & soft solder Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
c.hydes Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 OK thanks for the input guys, looks like LM grease is the answer. How do you get it in? Regards, Colin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 OK thanks for the input guys, looks like LM grease is the answer. How do you get it in? Regards, Colin. TR4A-6 front suspension In the side of your vertical post just above the trunion there should be a threaded hole containing either a grease nipple or a hex head plug. If there is a plug extract it and fit a grease nipple. Pump in grease using a grease gun - this sort of thing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wanner-Grease-Gun-Good-Used-Condition-/162094347320?hash=item25bd937438:g:vG8AAOSwtJZXVHtj Nipple is item 23 pt no UHN400 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/front-suspension.html Enjoy Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted June 9, 2016 Report Share Posted June 9, 2016 Just wonder are we speaking about TR3 or TR6 here... quite different layout... I understood that the first message regarded a TR3.... or am I wrong Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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