removing engine

[david c]

It's come to the time to remove the engine (a rather daunting prospect) question is should I take the whole lot as one lump or split the gearbox / overdrive from the engine.

Please keep in mind I will be doing this on my own with a little help from a one ton engine crane, so any advise, tips or tricks will be very welcome.

[peejay4A]

I've only ever removed both together and if I recall correctly that would be a consensus view if they both need attention.

Edit: On my own as well.

Edited April 27, 2014 by peejay4A

[david c]

Thanks for that, I was rather hoping that would be the case as I couldn't work out how to get the crane to secure the gearbox. roughly how much space in front of the car will I need? I ask as the car is up stands at the moment with about 6' of clear'ish space in front.

[Lord Flashart]

I always do the opposite and remove the engine on its own. You have to faf about removing the gearbox tunnel but after that it's easy.

I do it thy way out of habit more than anything else, I don't think it's a particulary difficult job either way.

 

Paul

[Guest ntc]

It depends on the type of crane you are using

[Motorsport Mickey]

And it is loads easier to match the gearbox up to the engine when it's on the floor to go back in ! It has been know for grown men to cry when trying to introduce the gearbox first motion shaft into the flywheel as they grow steadily weaker, until the knack is developed .

 

Mick Richards

[david c]

The crane is an brand new untried one ton chinese masterpiece, should be a doddle.........

[Rob Salisbury]

You have to bring the engine and box out at quite a steep angle and then level it out again to clear the front grill, so working height(garage ceiling) and the height lift of the crane becomes an issue, particularly if the car is on stands. An adjustable leveling bar is a very useful addition, but I prefer to use a block and tackle rather than a crane(it all gets a bit wobbly at full lift!!

Cheers Rob

[Guest ntc]

The crane is an brand new untried one ton chinese masterpiece, should be a doddle.........

At what reach?

[AlanT]

I'm with Flashart. I do the engine on it's own.

 

This is because I don't like the angle you need to develop to bring the gbox out.

The engine on it's own just goes straight up.

 

If I had a thing to tip the load then I might do them both at once.

 

You do need enough head height too, And I am short of this unless I work outside of course.

 

I have a special trolley to run the gbox back and foward so that it's easy to reconnect it.

[John Morrison]

David,

 

contact your local group, ask for help/advice You'll get it in abaundance and likely teh offer of help.

 

Not really a safe idea to do this by yourself, at least not the first time,

 

Crane you have and reasonable stock of ususal tools, and a flat floor will do nicely.

 

John.

[Lebro]

I have not removed an engine from a bodied TR, just a chassis, but I did replace engine & gearbox into a bodied car (TR3), as one lump using an engine crane. Did not have leveling bar, so had to re-adjust the ropes as I went, but the whole operation went without problems.

Having struggled to remove / replace the tunnel, & the gearbox in the past I would definatly opt for doing it all from the front.

[peejay4A]

You'll need to remove the tunnel cover in either situation especially if you have overdrive wiring. It's much easier to get at the propshaft bolts and gearbox mount.

[Geko]

Removing both together is straightforward but: 1/ remove the gearbox tunnel cover AND the gear lever; 2/put plenty of blankets all over the engine bay, wings and front valence; 3/ you need minimum 2,5 meters clearance in front of the car - 6 in is too short

[RogerH]

Hi David,

you are spoilt for choice.

I have done it both ways and due to the onset of age (I'm only 28(ish)) I find that an O/D gearbox is all a bit of an effort to lift etc.

To remove the engine and GB you need to remove the internals (GB tunnel, seats etc) just the same a engine only.

Remove the bonnet and exhaust manifold and anything attached to the enigne that adds weight.

If you need to remove the head when the engine is out it may be worth cracking the head nuts before removal.

It may be worth having a leveling bar on the hoist to help tilt the engine.

The front suspension cross bar may need to come out. Remove the radiator and the mechanical fan.

 

It would be advisable to remove the engine with the car OFF ramps due to the extra height you would need.

Do the removal outside the garage and then push the car in once removed.

 

I've often thought that if the front valence and grille panel were removable then the engine only needs to be lifted a small height before pulling forwards (another mod coming on).

 

What work are you doing on the engine.

 

keep us updated

 

Roger

[david c]

Hello all and thanks for your help.

To clarify a bit I am working on a near total restoration, The poor old bu***r has spent 30 years sitting under a tarp on lush Surrey grass.

The body tub is cut in half the back end on a trolly.The grotty end of the chassis is now repaired with all the usual new bits welded on. New floor pans and sills yet to be fitted, so I have better access to the gearbox and overdrive than I Hope I will ever have again!

The rest of the car (front end engine etc.) is still bolted to the chassis and up on ramps, timbers and stands.

I am taking the engine out as I am going back to bare metal for a complete respray. Taking the clutch / gearbox out as clutch is seized and I have a new clutch sitting in a box on the garage floor, same thing really never going to get a better oppertunity.

Club meeting on Wednesday...perhaps if I stand about and look helpless enough....................

[smyllie]

Hi David, I am going through the same process with my conifer 63 TR4 which has not turned a wheel in 34 years. Two week-ends ago I removed my engine and gearbox. This is my first time and I was a little apprehensive to say the least. As others have suggested, I spent time removing as many bits as possible. Something that amazes me is how heavy even the smallest component can be on these old cars. As Roger has suggested, I cracked the head nuts prior to removal. As the engine will be completely stripped, I also removed the large bolt that holds on the front crankshaft pulley before removing the engine. I had read this somewhere else and was so glad that I did not wait until the engine was out.

 

I borrowed a 2T hoist/crane from a mate and purchased a levelling bar. I had two helpers with me as we removed the engine and box (non overdrive) as one. One of us was on the crane, the other inside the car to guide the gearbox, and the third managed the engine angle/ensured that we did not cause any damage.

 

I have to say that it was a non event, we took our time and thought through the best angle as the engine was gently eased out of its resting place. We did unclamp the steering rack and move this as far forward as possible to help with sump clearance.

 

Otherwise just a few scraped knuckles, several cups of tea and the job was done. For me it was satisfying as it marks the end of the strip down. Everything from here on is refurb and assembly.

 

Good luck

[david c]

As always thank you very one for aii the advise and encouragement.

It looks like a leveling bar for the crane is going on a shopping list, Back down on its wheels, headbolt loosening and a bit of help should get the job done.

 

Will be back with an update and doubtless more questions.