Clutch change 1973 TR6

[Chilp3]

Good morning,

Firstly thank you for taking the time to read this post and hopefully share your collective experience before I embark on this task.

 

I am changing the clutch on the TR this coming weekend because although it engages and disengages OK with no judder the operation is very heavy. From the service history the clutch was last changed by Enginuity in 1988 and has covered nominal mileage since. Overall the car has matching numbers and has covered a total of 65,000 miles from new.

I have read the Brown Bible which appears to be straightforward in terms of gearbox removal and replacement although I suspect in reality it will be quite challenging as I do not have a ramp or lift. Time will tell I'm sure!

 

I have sourced a raised finger Borg & Beck replacement clutch and alignment tool from TRGB. In addition I have a replacement cross-shaft pin plus wire along with the cross-shaft bearings and roll pins for the release bearing. I purchased the latter from Rimmers. I'm hoping the new clutch will be a lot lighter in operation and suspect the fingers on the current clutch pressure plate may have become age hardened due to periods of not being used. I guess this may become clearer upon removal. The slave cylinder is also connected correctly in the middle hole which I have read can cause problems.

 

I have a couple of questions:

• The Brown Bible suggests that the bell-housing bolts may be removed from inside the car without removing the starter motor? I was confused as normally two of the bolts would hold the starter motor in situ. Should I not have to remove the starter then that would be a bonus as it's buried under the fuel injection throttle bodies. I would appreciate your thoughts and experience here.

 

• Are there any experienced thoughts or suggestions that may help me as I haven't previously changed a clutch on a TR6 before.

 

Best Regards and thank you,

Peter

[Sparkplug]

Peter-

I replaced the clutch in my 73 TR6 quite a few years ago.

I did not have to remove the starter.

I had to:

Remove the seats.

Remove the transmission tunnel.

Remove center dashboard support.

I removed all the bolts in the bellhousing from inside the car. It's not very comfortable.

The transmission of course comes out from inside the car.

I was sold a clutch assembly for a different car, so in 1500 miles, the throwout bearing was shot, and I had to do it all over again.

I was sitting on the small hump where the handbrake is, with two 2x4"s, one under each leg, and under my arms, trying to align the mainshaft with the hole in the clutch, and push the transmission forward.

Yes, I also had the alignment tool-

It took me 3 days. I was covered in grease/oil from head to toe, and It did bring me to tears on the last day.

Please get some help!

I hope this answers some questions you might have had.

George.

[wheeler]

Hi Peter

 

Some interesting information regarding TR6 clutch here http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

 

Hope this helps

 

Good luck

 

Bill

[RobinTR6]

Just done mine, starter is bolted thru the bellhousing so you'll at least need to remove the bolts. Sounds like you have the right gear. It's without question easier with two people. One secures bolts from engine bay other unwind nuts from inside. Not sure if you have Overdrive but in any event manhandling the box is easier with two especially when it comes to getting the front shaft into the driven plate. Managed in two days, interior bits out and box out on one all back next. Could be done in a day but it will be a long one especially if you haven't done it before.

[Jersey Royal]

Heres a tip,

 

When you are putting the box back in, tie the crosshaft lever forward, which means the release bearing is as far back on the nose of the box, that way it wont fall off.

I use some strong twine, just cut it off just before bellhousing mates.

 

It was my first job on my six back in 2006,I thought what have I let myself in for but with help from this forum, the brown book and buckeye triumph info, I managed it and on my Todd.

I was amazed at what I had done. Since then I must have done four local gearbox jobs.

 

You can do it.

 

Cheers

Guy

Edited March 11, 2014 by Jersey Royal

[stuart]

And dont forget to fit the alignment dowel bolts or you will be doing it again.

Stuart.

[Tim D.]

Did this on my own the Xmas before last...

Best advice is to take it carefully and slowly.. If you rush things get broken...

Plenty of Tea!

Tim

[Chilp3]

Thank you everyone for your words of encouragement which is greatly appreciated. I've jst started removing the interior so have at least made a start!

 

The alignment dowel bolts that Stuart mentions I assume are aligning the bell-housing with the engine? I guess I will remove those as part of the gearbox removal process and need to ensure I replace the same. Are you referring to something else perhaps as I have read this on the forum previously and not fully understood to what people are referring.

 

Sorry if I sound like an idiot but I think the way to avoid mistakes is to ask questions in a safe environment.

 

Thanks again, Peter

[Peter Cobbold]

Peter,

Hang on a mnute.

Why should the clutch be stiff? Its almost unworn and works smoothly. Seesm to me the the stiffness might be the hydraulic cylinder,master cylinder, or the actuating rod set on the uppermost position. But first of all try some Plusgas on the shaft where it goes through the bellhousing, both ends, and work it hard. If the shaft was assembled dry the years-old film of rust and aluminium oxide may have tightened up the motion.

A lot less work!!

Peter

Edited March 12, 2014 by Peter Cobbold

[Damson6]

The first six I had (1969) needed wieghtlifter leg muscles to press it! I think I read that when Autocar did a test on the 6 when it came out it took 80lbs pressure to press the clutch pedal down!

I agree that if it works Ok check everthing else first as it is a heavy box if it has an overdrive fitted. Try other sixes to compare as everything, steering brakes etc are heavy compared to a modern car.

[stuart]

Dowel bolts are fitted at the 20 to 2 positions and are 3/8" UNF with a shank and the holes match, all the rest are 5/16" UNF.

Stuart.

[simonjrwinter]

If you have a good (and strong) pal who is willing to lie underneath the car, supporting the weight of the gearbox at the bellhousing end to help align it, life will be much easier.

I spent ages trying to line up my gearbox, but when I lay under the car and got my son-in-law to move the gearbox from inside the car, it made life soooooo much easier (unless of course the gearbox fell on your head!)

Simon

[Chilp3]

Stuart,

Thank you for the clarification re the alignment dowel bolts. The fact that they're 3/8" rather than 5/16" will make their identification easier. I assume that once the gearbox is aligned with the engine these must be put in first before any of the other bell housing bolts? I assume also that they should not be tightened at this time to allow alignment of the remaining bell housing 5/16" bolts?

 

This is really helpful information and I want to ensure I have fully understood your instruction so apologies if I appear to be a little prescriptive in my questions. Interestingly the Brown Bible dosesn't refer to this level of detail and simply suggests removal and replacement of the upper and lower bell-housing bolts.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

Best Regards, Peter

[WWT338J]

Peter

You might want to look at this

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/LocatingDowels.htm

and this

http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=4BCX2T05E46M8LQSBXEBG2FHTK5P5454&CarType=TR6&ProductID=RTR1111K

 

Not a job you want to do many times.

David

[stuart]

Stuart,

Thank you for the clarification re the alignment dowel bolts. The fact that they're 3/8" rather than 5/16" will make their identification easier. I assume that once the gearbox is aligned with the engine these must be put in first before any of the other bell housing bolts? I assume also that they should not be tightened at this time to allow alignment of the remaining bell housing 5/16" bolts?

 

This is really helpful information and I want to ensure I have fully understood your instruction so apologies if I appear to be a little prescriptive in my questions. Interestingly the Brown Bible dosesn't refer to this level of detail and simply suggests removal and replacement of the upper and lower bell-housing bolts.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

Best Regards, Peter

The 3/8" ones have a proper shank to align the box and there is very little clearance on those holes. Put them in first but dont nip them quite tight. Put all the rest of the 5/16" ones in but leave slack. Tighten the 2 3/8" ones and then the rest of them.

Stuart.

[Chilp3]

Thanks Stuart, a really clear instruction that even I can understand! I shall let you all know how the gearbox removal progresses in due course.

[Clarkey]

Hi Peter

I have just been doing this my self(with the help from the forumites ) and another pair of hands is very Handy indeed

as Stuart has said ,the dowel bolts are the important bit,

The PO of my car got the is completely wrong and i have had to change the clutch release bearing and after a botched box and O/D fefurb had to have that done too.

I have found the ability to teach my self a new language whilst doing this

but as the rest of the lads have said take your time and have plenty of timeouts

[Chilp3]

Good morning everyone,

I thought I would provide an an update as to where I've got to with my TR6 clutch change. Firstly I have successfully managed to remove the overdrive gearbox which was pretty straightforward. This was certainly made easier as there were two of us. I wouldn't like to do this on my own. I have attached a picture of the gearbox for those interested.

 

Upon inspection of the old clutch it was clear there were some problems associated with the cross shaft. The clutch plate had worn on the outer edge on one side and the inner edge of the other. This gave me cause for concern as it had covered minimal mileage. There was also noticeable wear on the cover plate fingers. The phosphor bronze bearing carrier also had signs of damage caused by the release fork pins. Upon closer inspection and removal of the cross-shaft pin we disciovered this had in fact broken. There was also a broken weld between the release fork and the cross shaft where Enginuity had previously replaced the clutch back in 1988. I assume that the weld was performed then based upon the history file but that is of course an assumption on my part. I then removed the entire cross-shaft with a hack-saw which was scary.

 

I have installed the new clutch on the flywheel using an alignment tool and correctly torqued up the bolts. I also replaced the cross-shaft bushes in the bell-housing for good measure. In addition I have today ordered the following new parts from TRGB:

• New cross shaft.
• New phosphor bronze bearing carrier.
• New uprated hardened cross-shaft pin plus wire.
• New Release fork
• New gear lever spring and plunger (mine was missing!)

 

Hopefully by fitting all this lot together with the Borg and Beck raised finger clutch also from TRGB the problem should be resolved.

 

I'm amazed however that prior to removal of the clutch whilst very heavey it was in fact engaging and disengaging with no judder. This is despite all the problems in the bell-housing so quite amazing really I suppose.

 

I shall place a further update when the gearbox is back in the car but for now I hope this feedback will be of interest to everyone that previously offered me advice on the forum.

 

Thank you, Peter

[Chilp3]

Good morning everyone,

Another concern whilst removing the gearbox was with the slave cylinder. This is a relatively new replacement item which has worked perfectly since I have been running the car.

 

I removed the slave cylinder and let it hang from the goodrich flexible which seened to be OK. I then noticed the cylinder was leaking fluid which was a surprise. We then tied the cylinder out the way in the horizontal position.This then stopped any more fluid leaking.

 

I have concluded that this is possibly where the actuating lever has popped out along with the piston allowing fluid to eascape. The other option is of course the cylinder is faulty although quite why it should fail like this for no apparent reason is frankly a little bizzare.

 

Has anyone any thoughts or possibly able to corroborate my theory before we put everything back together?

 

Thank you, Peter

[Jersey Royal]

The slave piston will pop out and let fluid out, worth removing the cylinder to check its all clean inside, with no rust or build up of crud, check piston rubber too, replace if needed.

 

What was the inside of the bell housing like, if platered in oil and black and gunky, check the nose gasket and the one underneath,small plate

 

Well done

 

Cheers

Guy

Edited March 17, 2014 by Jersey Royal

[peejay4A]

Peter, while you've got it in bits get another pair of cross shaft bushes and install them along with the ones you've already fitted. That way they'll never wear.