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  1. Phil These might help. You may also need to adjust the height stop for the door windows. David TR6 Hardtop factory instructions.pdf
  2. Hi Peter Thank you for the link to Think. That's what I will get although I've finally got the copper pipe installed. David
  3. Dear Both Thanks for the replies. Mike I like the sound of your set up. The specs of the hose sound good. Did you fit swaged ends to the hose? I’m anxious at the thought of using jubilee clips. If so where did you get the pipe made up? David
  4. Dear Wise Men I'm mid way through a job I wish I'd not started... When I first got my CP-series TR6 many years ago I converted the fuel pump to Bosch and adjusted the pressure. The boot has smelt of fuel ever since. I replaced the pump to PRV hose with an expensive braided hose from Revington some time ago without improvement. I subsequently fitted a new style pressure regulating valve. There is a slight weep of fuel from the short copper pipe that joins the PRV to the fuel line under the car (77 in the diagram). I assume messing around with the PRV has deformed the flange on
  5. WWT338J


    Agree with Harlequin. Quite safe. Often just replacing the upper bush takes the play out of the steering column and you can do this with the column in place. David
  6. Methylene dicloride was the chemical that made Nitromors paint stripper work. It's volatile and neurotoxic - it penetrates rubber gloves and makes your fingers go numb (temporarily!). It's great at stripping paint. Nitromors no longer has methylene dichloride in it and consequently is now pretty much useless. David
  7. Andy I used this firm http://www.ableblastclean.co.uk/index.HTML based in Tockwith to soda blast the shell of my TR6 about 10 years ago. John, I think. Nice bloke, reasonable rates. He did a good job and sprayed the fresh metal with etch primer for me. Awful communications and he took bloody ages! Anyhow, the body has stood up well. The doors, bonnet and boot were dipped which, of course, takes what little paint was originally applied off the edges you can't see so there are some signs of rust appearing there. David
  8. I think sometimes spacers were fitted to counteract 'batchelors lean'. A pretty girl in the passenger seat seems a better option. David
  9. Kevine Check the oil level. If it's low this could explain the problem and it would be an easy fix. David
  10. The other factors to consider are ambient temperature and water flow rate through the radiator. At idle I don't think the flow rate is very high and this contributes to overheating in traffic jams. The late US TR6 had some sort of thermostatic valve on the carbs that increased idle speed when hot. I'm curious as to how well this works/worked as the engine will generate more heat at a higher speed. David
  11. Ian I have the same system as you. I ran the cable from the lambda sensor through an existing hole in the R side of the bulkhead into the passenger compartment. The LM2 controller sits on the gearbox cover just under the heater. I can fish it out easily if I want but I leave it there because I have an AFT gauge mounted on the dash support bracket where the radio would normally be. David
  12. https://www.facebook.com/groups/127519529899/permalink/10155751588464900/ Nice period film David
  13. Steve You might try Chris Witor. I suspect he'll have one to sell. David
  14. I use one of these http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/Product/Fuel%20Level%20Volts%20Gauge%205%20Position%20programmable%20(DG218) Expensive but accurate. And you can measure the voltage at the pump if you want. I found the seal on the cheaper oil pressure transducers leaks after a while and the sender fails. Doesn't leak fuel but stops reading the pressure properly. David
  15. Tim My hard top is a pain in the arse to fit. The captive nuts for the front are retained in a flimsy cage and the latitude for engaging the bolts through the top of the windscreen is very small. The nuts have a small bar welded to them to prevent rotation within the cage. I managed to dislocate on of the cages which made things even worse. The way I solve the problem is this. I place a bit of closed cell foam over the rear deck. Actually an old camping mat. Rest the hardtop in place on the car. I then engage the front bolts first. A philips screwdriver through the spacer on one side helps.
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