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Considering which rear telescopic shock conversion to opt for?


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Hi all,

 

Thanks to all those who offered help with the rear hubs for my TR5.

Ive decided to do the whole rear end in one go as its mad to take the thing to bits more than once.

So the shopping list is, bearing in mind this ones my long term keeper.

Reinforce rear diff mounts.

New hubs both sides (both shot), hoping to uprate hubs and shafts at the same time.

Telescopic shock conversion, and here's my question. Having looked at all the options out there I favour this offering:

 

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/graphics/uk/homebanners/new0510/TT3225_web.jpg

 

Seems to me its by far and away the neatest, least bulky, and elegant solution out there.

Best of all it also ties the body and chassis together and doesn't put any loading through the inner wing.

I'm no engineer but this has to be the best design doesn't it? Or am I unaware of, or missing something, or is there something better still out there??

 

Opinions and experiences for and against would be much appreciated.

Also while i'm on here, anyone got any nice TR5 rear stanpart wings collecting dust they would like to sell :) . I dream....

 

Many thanks as always,

 

Tim

 

 

 

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Tim don't do it. Buy a 25% uprated pair of new, not rebuilt, lever arms, fit and forget. Been down your chosen route and couldn't wait to get back to a sensible ride again.

Just my tuppence worth and all that rubbish

Alan

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I have to say that I like the racetorations ally rear shock conversion.

 

Beautifully made.

 

Steve

Ps, Proptech for replacement drive shafts.

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The elliptical movement of the lever arm mimics the rear trailing arm movement described as an arc far closer than a linear telescopic shock absorber fitment, and gives superior ride characteristics in my opinion.

Sometimes it really is better just to renovate components rather than follow the crowd, especially when it's better and cheaper.

 

Mick Richards

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I can't compare uprated lever arms and telescopics as when I removed my knackered lever arms many years ago, rebuilt ones were out of my price range and as for new ones......well, might as well look for rocking horse manure.

I prefer the telescopic bracket that has no contact with the body, so I'd suggest you look at CTM's product.

On the positive side for telescopics, you get a considerable choice of manufacturers (inc Koni), however on the negative side you must make sure that the original chassis bump stop is utilised and NOT the telescopic integral one (this you will have to verify - do not trust the damper manufacturer).

In addition, telescopics may restrict your choice of wheel/tyre as they do intrude into the wheelarch (only an issue for wheels with greater inset than standard).

Jerry

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Jerry. New ones and new uprated ones are available now though. Of course you will know this already but others might not.Bought mine from TRBitz and they are spot on items. TT3214 part number LH and Rh evidently!

Regards

Alan

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I have to say that I like the racetorations ally rear shock conversion.

 

Beautifully made.

 

Steve

Ps, Proptech for replacement drive shafts.

+ 1

Used them for years and never had any issues both road use and track.

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I am now thinking of going back to lever arm suspension. I discovered a hair line crack on the top of my bridging support bracket(this is where the rear spring mounts at the top) I have been running with the shock inside the coil for over eight years and really enjoyed it.I think the potholes and lack of maintenance of our roads have not helped and we are all now experiencing problems with the state of the roads. I may or may not be right but that is my personal view and I will try the original set up with 25% uprated lever arms.

Thats is what is so appealing about our hobby we can change and maintain them ourselves.As for moderns we just turn the key and go.

For what it is worth,just my thoughts.

Regards Harry

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I am now thinking of going back to lever arm suspension. I discovered a hair line crack on the top of my bridging support bracket(this is where the rear spring mounts at the top)

Not surprising, the spring bridge was never designed to take such loading, why do you think there is a separate bridge behind for the shock mounts. Serious re-enforcing needs to be done to utilise that set-up on today's roads.

Stuart.

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Hi all,

 

Thanks to all those who offered help with the rear hubs for my TR5.

Ive decided to do the whole rear end in one go as its mad to take the thing to bits more than once.

So the shopping list is, bearing in mind this ones my long term keeper.

Reinforce rear diff mounts.

New hubs both sides (both shot), hoping to uprate hubs and shafts at the same time.

Telescopic shock conversion, and here's my question. Having looked at all the options out there I favour this offering:

 

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/graphics/uk/homebanners/new0510/TT3225_web.jpg

 

Seems to me its by far and away the neatest, least bulky, and elegant solution out there.

Best of all it also ties the body and chassis together and doesn't put any loading through the inner wing.

I'm no engineer but this has to be the best design doesn't it? Or am I unaware of, or missing something, or is there something better still out there??

 

Opinions and experiences for and against would be much appreciated.

Also while i'm on here, anyone got any nice TR5 rear stanpart wings collecting dust they would like to sell :) . I dream....

 

Many thanks as always,

 

Tim

 

 

 

Tim I think TR5 wings are the same as TR4/4A with the extra holes fitted, for the blinker lamp. But could be wrong.

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IRS Shock Absorbers ... A topic with plenty of different options (& opinions)!

 

 

From my experience the original lever arm shock absorbers work fine if they are well maintained ...and this included the associated bushes and linkage to the trailing arm. You may think about increasing the stiffness by using a slightly more vicious oil but, all in all, in good order they seem to work OK.

 

 

However, in the end, the best result I had from my TR5 (in addition to addressing shock absorber etc. overhaul) was to upgrade the rear springs and the arrangement of the trailing arm attachment brackets to the CR TR6 specification. This replaces the original springs (which are accepted as being a little soft) with the later TR6 springs (GSV1001) and moving one attachment bracket and replacing the other on each side. Total cost a year or so ago was around £100 and it was probably the best £100 I ever spent on the car in terms of what it achieved for what it cost. It transformed the rear end handling ..no more bottoming out or general rear end instability. I wrote a short article that was published in TRaction 262 December 2012 and a copy is attached for your reference.

 

 

In terms of telescopic shock absorber mods ...if you go down that route also consider the spring upgrade as well to get the best benefit. However, it is suggested that you avoid any option that does not mount to the original chassis and trailing arm attachment points ...they were designed to carry the quite significant loads that the shock absorbers impart. When I restored my TR5 one of the more frustrating tasks was rebuilding the rear inner wheel arches where someone had attached a telescopic kit. The loads induced had badly damaged the surrounding area and it was quite difficult to rectify the significant cracking and fatigue that had resulted.

 

 

Good luck

 

 

Robert

 

Auckland

 

New Zealand

TR4A IRS - TR6 Rear Suspension - UK version Nov 2011 R3.pdf

TR4A IRS - TR6 Rear Suspension - UK version Nov 2011 R3.pdf

Edited by KiwiTR5
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  • 4 weeks later...

Save yourself a good deal of cash and potential grief, have Stevsons rebuild a pair of lever arms.

 

Take note of Mick's comments - and bear in mind that Standard Triumph understood teles perfectly well when they designed the Mayflower, and subsequently stuck with lever arms on a separate chassis TR for good reasons.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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I heartily concur, Alec. My former 6 had telescopic Spax all round and even on the softest setting the ride was appalling! My 5 has uprated springs and standard shocks all round and is quite civilised but without the leaning in corners that it had on standard springs.

 

An MG driving friend tells me that large numbers of their owners are reverting back to lever arms now.

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The ride has defiantly changed for the better since changing to lever arms (25% uprated) and keeping the slightly uprated springs.Even

Mary commented on how better on the road it is. Will see how it gets around SPA this year.

Regards Harry

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