foster461 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 In January 2011 I pulled the engine out of my TR3A project car and embarked on the ground up restoration process. I rebuilt the engine this spring and installed it into the refurbished frame a few weeks ago. I had to bolt on some of the peripheral components and wait until my schedule and the weather would give me a wide enough window to do the initial startup. Yesterday (Sunday June 16) was the day. Overall things went pretty well. I did two stupid things that you can see in the video below. One was omitting to fit a bolt with copper washer into the block just to the left of the fuel pump. If you look carefully as I do the initial tour there is some blue tape over that hole. Don’t ask me how I missed that. I noticed as I was trying to build oil pressure with the plugs out that oil was being pumped out of that hole. No harm done I hope.. Second stupid mistake was connecting the carb to carb fuel line to the float bowl overflow pipes. You can see that also on the video. As I was priming the carbs via the lever on the fuel pump I saw gas exiting the overflow tube on the front carb. Doh !. Quickly fixed that also. With the hole in the block suitably plugged I had oil pressure on the gauge and with the carbs correctly connected and primed I hit the solenoid button and the engine started immediately. No choke needed, just tweaked the idle screws to get 2000 rpm for the cam break in period. A few small coolant leaks and one minor oil leak from the fuel pump gasket. A bigger oil leak from the bottom of the timing cover gasket so will need to pull that apart and investigate. Not sure about the 60lbs oil pressure, my TR6 registers much higher oil pressure when cold but both oil pressure and coolant temp stayed steady for the 20 min cam break in period. I did not have a good electrical connection between the engine and the frame. In retrospect I should have planned for that during the frame and engine painting. A short video of the engine startup here http://s38.photobucket.com/user/foster461/media/TR3A%20restoration%20project/EngineStartupSmall_zps72a1d41e.mp4.html and yes, I normally look like a homeless person at the weekend Thanks everyone for your support and interest in this project. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Nice video (and nice to see a face with the name!). I wouldn't be too worried about the oil pressure: often the spring can be adjusted and it then will give a higher reading! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Nice one Stan. Well done! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Been there done that. I wouldn't worry too much about the 60psi oil pressure Be more concerned if it is low when warm. If you haven't already done it fit a new spring and ball to the relief valve, dont ask how I know. The timing chest leak is probably due to a distorted chest at the bolt holes due to over tightening by a PO. There was a thread about this some time back. Take it off and put a straight edge along the line of the holes on the gasket side. I used a tube in the vice and tapped each one till flush with the edge. Invariably they are domed towards the block enough so they dont compress the gasket evenly and create the required seal. A good check before refitting is to thinly coat the cover with grease and place onto the gasket and remove again. look at the contact sticky area remaining and it gives a good indication how it will sit on the engine. Above all don't worry about what seem like stupid errors, it's part of your Tr evolution and the old saying is if you never make a mistake you never learn anything. rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 (edited) Its a nice feeling when it starts and doesn't make any horid sounds Well done Stan Cheers Alan Edited June 17, 2013 by Kiwifrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 SUPER Stan. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I have enjoyed mine with 191,000 miles driven in the past 55 years. Cheers Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Well done Stan! Body off makes sorting out the drips a bit easier. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Well Done Stan Looking very nice indeed. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Excellent Stan - don't worry, every rebuild has a few wrinkles to sort out. Another suggestion when you remove the timing cover, if grooved, the hub might need a speedi-sleeve. When re-fitting the timing cover, leave the bolts loose and fit the hub so as to centre the oil seal. Then tighten the timing cover to only 14-16lbs ft. Regards, Viv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Excellent Stan - don't worry, every rebuild has a few wrinkles to sort out. Another suggestion when you remove the timing cover, if grooved, the hub might need a speedi-sleeve. When re-fitting the timing cover, leave the bolts loose and fit the hub so as to centre the oil seal. Then tighten the timing cover to only 14-16lbs ft. Regards, Viv I did fit a speedi sleeve to the front hub shaft as well as the rear axle as both were showing signs of wear. Very pleased at how easy they were to fit and how well they work. In fact at the front I think the timing cover oil seal is the only seal that isnt leaking as I see signs that the thermostat housing, water pump and timing cover all have issues. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pogo Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Well done Stan, looks great. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Well done Stan running like a bought one, you don't look like your ready to put the body back on yet. One of my boy's was in Washington last week but he is on the West coast now so he won't be able to give you a hand, sorry;; Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Hi stan, The thermostat housing can be a pig to seal as it quite often corrodes and causes minute distortion as it clamps the stat. Head to stat housing is straight orward for a flat lapped surface but the step for the thermostat unit has somtimes detoriaorated to a point where a new stat ridge sits higher than the gasket can seal. Water pumps do not seem to like sitting and either a replacement unit or a new seal kit is required. I had just the same issue with mine and it worked for about half an hour before it let go in a big way showering everything in scolding water. The timing chest leak is probably due to a distorted chest at the bolt holes due to over tightening by a PO. There was a thread about this some time back. Take it off and put a straight edge along the line of the holes on the gasket side. I used a tube in the vice and tapped each one till flush with the edge. Invariably they are domed towards the block enough so they dont compress the gasket evenly and create the required seal. A good check before refitting is to thinly coat the cover with grease and place onto the gasket and remove again. look at the contact sticky area remaining and it gives a good indication how it will sit on the engine. For some reason I cannot view your video. Onwards and upwards, not long top go now!!!! Rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) Well done Stan, it's staring to pay off and looking good! While you're at this stage you might wish to consider a ST 6-blade tropical fan (loads over there!) even if you fit a Kenlowe etc. Cheers Andrew Edited June 18, 2013 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Jobs a good un Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Thanks everyone for the kind words, encouragement, suggestions and offers of children. I'm some months/years away from reuniting the body with the frame however. This summer is flying by. You think you have all this time and the next minute you are putting up xmas lights and driveway markers for the snow plow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted June 20, 2013 Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 Stan - On the LHS of the engine, you have a bypass hose secured to the thermostat housing. If you have an anti-freeze mix in the system, it is difficult to keep the upper end of this hose from leaking because (at least on mine) the spigot where this hose is attached has an external taper. So the more you tighten the hose clamp, the more it slides outwards down the taper and it can leak. The antifreeze makes it slide even more - as this acts as a lubricant. I removed my housing and cut a retaining groove all the way around the aluminium spigot about 1/4 way up from the end. I used a die grinder (a Dremmel will do) or even a hack-saw bllade. This lets the rubber hose get retained and properly clamped to the spigot and I've had no issues since doing this. Cheers Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sidescreen Posted June 20, 2013 Report Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) Very, very nice job Stan! Everything seems to me extremely nice finished and very well detailed in your video. Nice to see 'my' colour/card back in your picture gallery! Wishing you all the best with finishing your beautiful project. Regards - Raymond Edited June 20, 2013 by sidescreen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted June 21, 2013 Report Share Posted June 21, 2013 That's an interesting note about the bypass hose Don, when i fitted the new cloth covered hose with the correct hose clamps i couldn't get it to seal. I finished up changing the bypass hose for an all rubber or silicon one which has a larger outer diameter and clamed better. I like your idea nad i might change it back with that mod. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.