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My TR3A has a fully synchromesh box. It is though very stiff to make changes. It is relatively new, by others, but does not seem to be easing. Does anybody have any ideas.

Thanks David

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David,

 

Pete Cox rebuilt TuRK's gearbox and overdrive and said it would take at least 1,000 miles before it loosened up due to the tolerances he builds to, and it did, almost to 1,000th mile!

 

During the first 1,000 miles though the gearbox was stiff and I used to miss 2nd and 3rd changes frequently to the point of turning the air blue - the gear change is now silky smooth and a pleasure to use.

 

Cheers

Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
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David ~

 

My 3A has a four synchro. box and when I first got the car the gear change was very stiff. I cured it easily by removing the gearbox tunnel, removing the remote control unit and adjusting the three grub screws which control the ball and spring plungers which engage with the selector shafts. It's easily done on the bench. You slacken the grub screws until you achieve a smooth gear change. Don't overdo it otherwise the gear lever will jump out. After adjusting the gear change I secured the grub screws with 'Locktite' to prevent any movement.

 

Try it ~ it really works!!

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049
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But stiffness wise how would you compare a four speed syncro Triumph box with say, my MX5? Especially given the Triumph's short lever.

Totally different box, no comparison.

Stuart.

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It's comparing turnips with kneecaps, ask yourself this would a MX5 gearbox still be in use in 40 or 50 years time!!

Cheers Rob

I'm sure it will, modern cars are altogether more durable, but my point was that if you compare the gear change of any modern with a TR, it'll be a lot stiffer, but if I do the same with my Healey 300, stiffness is similar.

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I was musing on the stiffness of gearchanging in my 3A yesterday but I really don't know what to expect.

 

I was at Prescott watch the local Rotary Club hill climb and thinking I would struggle to get down into 2nd quickly on that first left-handed hairpin.

 

Changing gear has alway been a bit of a 2 movement affair (not double de-clutching) up and down the gears on the 3A but dropping down from 3rd to 2nd is in addition a bit of a physical wrench.

 

I this what I should expect?

 

Miles

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I was musing on the stiffness of gearchanging in my 3A yesterday but I really don't know what to expect.

 

I was at Prescott watch the local Rotary Club hill climb and thinking I would struggle to get down into 2nd quickly on that first left-handed hairpin.

 

Changing gear has alway been a bit of a 2 movement affair (not double de-clutching) up and down the gears on the 3A but dropping down from 3rd to 2nd is in addition a bit of a physical wrench.

 

I this what I should expect?

 

Miles

Not on an original early box but often the case with the later type as the change is more "notchy"

Stuart.

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3 synchro gearboxes should change back from 3rd to 2nd quite smoothly, providing the car is travelling at an appropriate speed. Certainly less notchy than the 4 synchro boxes I've had.

 

Perhaps the clutch needs adjusting or the plate is worn or it's something in the gearbox, such as the 2nd gear top hat bush or synchro ring. The selector fork could be worn or bent, or the detent spring is too tight (see Tom's post #6 to fix).

 

Viv.

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Thanks Viv and Stuart

 

It has never been smooth like a more modern box. I suspect it is not an original early box. Should probably try a few others for comparison.

 

Viv's options should keep me busy for a while. Suppose I should start with the easiest adjustment first and then work through the list.

 

Miles

Edited by MilesA
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  • 1 month later...

I drove the registers TR2 when it was in London and it was very different from mine. I think it is a good idea to try some other cars to find out if there are any shortcomings inn our own.

 

I will suggest it at the next group meeting.

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