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UFN 878's back!!


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Greetings gentlefolk I bring thee glad tidings!

My TR3A (UFN 878) came back from the paintshop today! It's absolutely beautiful in its new coat of

Signal Red. BUT, I am not looking forward to putting it all back together again! Where do I start???

 

Worried of north Wales!

(aka Tom).

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Hi Neil ~

Yes you're perfectly right ~ I've already got a brand new harness (with all the wires labelled ready to go on!). I shall be fitting

relay switches to most components, horns, lights, rad. fan etc. etc. I'm now in the process of rebuilding the engine using a spare

block.

Cheers ~

Tom. :D

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Great news Tom! Relays etc are a welcome addition to the TR's electrics! Try to use as much nyloc nuts as possible. These nuts keep all parts safely together and when properly installed, there are no rattles - even when driving a bumpy road for miles and miles!

 

Menno

Edited by Menno van Rij
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You're perfectly right Menno ~ nyloc nuts are always the way to go. Also, if I have to add any additional wiring,

I always use soldered connections NEVER those terrible 'crimp' efforts which look terrible!

Best regards ~

Tom. :)

Edited by Fireman049
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Flat section spring washers are just as good, but always use locking nuts, (nyloc) on suspension and steering, I can't remember ever finding a loose nut where I had fitted a proper spring washer.

 

Crimped terminals look ****, but their are issues with soldering (mentioned at Malvern wiring talk) I like to shrink a sleeve over a crimped terminal to hide those modern looking blue red and yellow sleeves.

 

 

Does any one agree with me that some lucar fasteners don't grip the spade for long, so are not to the standard of the original spec ie they are ****, soft metal, not sprung?

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Hi 21478

 

Totally agree! When Ivé done a long journey, I always find the lucars to the LT conns. on the coil work loose and it causes the engine to miss, once it even caused a complete stop in France on the way to Le Mans.

 

Dave

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Tom

 

Looking forward to following the rebuild.

 

As for electrics, as I have recently discovered there is 'crimping' and there is 'crimping'. There are the modern terminals described by TR21478 with their rather unattractive, gharish plastic covers which are crushed onto the wire with a simple crimper costing a couple of quid. Then there is the unadorned terminal with 2 sets of 'arms': one grips the insulated cable and the second set grip the stripped cable. A more professional crimper is needed to fold over the arms for a secure grip. These terminal can then be protected by individual opaque covers or one can apply heatshrink. Personally, I feel more confident with latter type of terminal / crimp which I think also looks better. All a matter of personal taste though...

 

Keep us updated.

 

Miles

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Congratulations Tom,

 

The shell looks superb - It is good to know that there will soon be another Belgrove car on the road.

 

Good luck with the assembly,

 

Willie

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Hi Guy, Stan, Miles and Willie -

Thank you all for your kind words. Yes Guy, now that I've (Finally)! mastered the dark arts of putting photo's on the Forum I'll keep everyone posted with the updates of the rebuild from time to time.

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049
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Then there is the unadorned terminal with 2 sets of 'arms': one grips the insulated cable and the second set grip the stripped cable. A more professional crimper is needed to fold over the arms for a secure grip. These terminal can then be protected by individual opaque covers or one can apply heatshrink.

 

 

The advantage of this type is that if you strip a little extra length of insulation, you can fold back the wire after crimping it and 'double-crimp' it with the insulation arms. Undetectable once covered and minimises the potential problem of the cable pulling out of the spade connector when tugged hard.

Edited by BrianC
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Nic looking paint job, I am sure the car will be a cracker when finished, if done in time for christmas will that make it a christmas cracker ?

 

..........OK I am getting my coat 62621.gif

 

Alan

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  • 1 month later...
Surely it's best to buy a new loom from the TR Shop for about £100 then all the crimping is done.

 

Not on the loom that I bought from them, Ash... just plain ended wires.

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That loom is correct for the earlier cars, you must specify the chassis number as the loom changed around TS60000 to Lucars.

Stuart.

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That loom is correct for the earlier cars, you must specify the chassis number as the loom changed around TS60000 to Lucars.

Stuart.

 

Stuart

Just checking - are you saying that looms for post 60000 cars should come with connectors already attached? Our car is post 60000 and the TR Shop sent me a loom without any connectors attached to it...

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Thats what I said. You must tell them if its a post 60K car as those looms come with the Lucars attached. Im sure they will change it if you give them a ring.

Stuart.

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Thats what I said. You must tell them if its a post 60K car as those looms come with the Lucars attached. Im sure they will change it if you give them a ring.

Stuart.

 

Thanks Stuart

The guys at the TR Shop knew the chassis number of the car when I ordered the loom, so I would have expected them to have supplied the correct loom... but everyone makes mistakes, I suppose. I'll give them a call to see what they say.

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