AndrewMAshton Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Hello, I know this has been discussed before but I cannot find any reference to it in my search, to try to improve lighting I am going to fit the wide angle (if thats the right word) LED lamps to all the instruments, at the moment I have no rheostat fitted, in fact there are no holes in the dash where one was fitted although I have found the wires taped up at the back of the loom, I seem to remember that you need to add something to the circuit to allow the lamps to be dimmed by the rheostat I will be fitting, as always, all help gratefully received. I have a 1967 TR4A and have the dash removed at the moment, winter project to tidy the wires behind the dash and after 14 hour marathon sesion last sunday am getting somewhere! Cheers, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Hi Andrew, Have you tried one of the LED's to see how well they work. whilst you have the dash out fit up a gauge with one and see the result. Many of the LED mod's don't work very well. As for dimming them, the best way is to have a dedicated dimmer circuit (pulse width modulation etc) I think Tony Thompson did one in TRAction a couple of years ago. The LED's work over a small voltage range and varying this for good visual results is iffy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trevor S Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 Andrew, See attached link for wiring circuit for TR4a. As per the diagram I'm not aware of anything additional to be fitted in the electrical circuit when reinstating the rheostat. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf I hadn't come across "wide angle" LEDs for instrument lights so would be interested in your results. I bought a couple of standard LED instrument panel lights for the rev counter and speedo but was disappointed with the results as the beam of light whilst bright didn't have sufficient spread, and overall illumination of each dial was no better than before. Have fitted replaced rear brake/side light bulbs with LED bulbs however and there is a great improvement there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 I have these fitted to all my instruments, they directly replace the MES 12V bulbs: http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Ossc-pw86a1b-12v-White-LED-Bulb-100-41-0840/?sid=9969b92f-0143-4ef8-b5cb-7f30a329c047 They are slightly brighter (no dimmer is fitted), you certainly would not need a dimmer circuit. Although the LED's with 100 degree illumination are considerably brighter than a bulb, the main problem is that the instruments are fitted with a dense (blue/green) filter....... if that's removed then no doubt things would improve considerably. john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Collins Posted December 12, 2011 Report Share Posted December 12, 2011 If you want a ready made panel light dimmer, look for one from an MX5, they are pulse width modulators and work with leds. Needs a rectangular mounting hole and is quite deep. Loads on eBay. Mike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Hi Andrew I published an LED mod for TRs a few years ago in TRAction. Like others I was disappointed by wide angle LEDs and other LED options when replacing the panel illumination bulbs, and in the end tackled the problem in a different way. LEDs are highly directional and even 100 degree spread is not suitable for achieving decent illumination from behind the dial. Instead I used flexible LED strips in front of the dial and hidden behind the needle shroud. This is very effective, but does require you to disassemble your instruments so is not for the faint-hearted. It will require a dimmer and I have designed and built a simple Pulse width modulated dimmer that can be used. (Others have purchased these from me, but I do not know how many have been installed). I am more than happy to provide any details, just send me your email. (It is easier to send the files direct rather than through the forum) TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D1070 Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 I am surprised that you find the standard illumination inadequate, might be worth getting the rheostat working and checking again.., cheers, Laurence Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 The Rheostat can only make the illumination dimmer....... if it is removed and the wiring bypassed, that's as bright as they will go. john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidw Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 The Rheostat can only make the illumination dimmer....... if it is removed and the wiring bypassed, that's as bright as they will go. john Presumably, there is some residual impedance in the rheostat circuit even when max power is selected. If so taking it out completely should result in some increase in max brightness? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Baines Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Presumably, there is some residual impedance in the rheostat circuit even when max power is selected. If so taking it out completely should result in some increase in max brightness? David Correct. On guitars I've built, I use special no-load potentiometers for the tone controls, as there's always still a small amount of resistance when a normal potentiometer is set to zero. A push button starter or cigarette lighter socket is a useful replacement if you feel like taking it out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted December 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Hello again, many thanks for all your replies, in fact it was TTs article I remembered reading so will email him for a copy of the article, so much for the 'wide angle' LEDs, all they are is the bulb with a diffuser instead of the normal clear glass, all it does is direct a little bit of the light sideways so there is no advantage, also I have no rheostat fitted so the present setup is getting the full whack of volts and as I have an alternator fitted thats as bright as its going to go, Thanks again for your help, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 (edited) A little bit of topic, but I would like to modifying my TR2's rear lights. As most of you know, there is a single stop lamp, in the middle of the rear panel (stop + registration plate illumination functions), and I would like to ad a Led or something in each rear side/indcator lens, thus allowing my TR2 to have 3 stop lights. Any ideas chaps ? Chris. Edited December 26, 2011 by Chris59 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 A pair of these on a stainless bracket connected to the overriders http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-light-stop-and-tail-oval-red-streetfighter-trike-/160696152165?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item256a3cb065 I would personally think about removing the indicators from the rear red lights and adding a pair of orange indicator lights on a bracket on the overriders. Poeple dont expect to see red indicators. I would then keep the 3 rear red lights as brake lights Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin Fairhurst Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 A little bit of topic, but I would like to modifying my TR2's rear lights. As most of you know, there is a single stop lamp, in the middle of the rear panel (stop + registration plate illumination functions), and I would like to ad a Led or something in each rear side/indcator lens, thus allowing my TR2 to have 3 stop lights. Any ideas chaps ? Chris. Hi Chris, I have fitted a Lucas L10 relay to B's TR2. This came off an MGA and I think the early MGs used them. The result is that the indicators come on with centre brake light. In the situation where you are turning right and braking at the same time, for example, the left indicator light comes on with the brakes and the right indicator flashes. This works very well but there are two issues:- One is the choice of red or amber lenses and the other is that although I only had to add two extra wires to the wireing circuit (apart from the short tails to the relay) the job involved swapping over quite a number of bullet connectors in the harness under the bonnet completely changing the brake and rear indicator circuits. The good thing is that everything is reversible. Regards, Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted December 27, 2011 Report Share Posted December 27, 2011 Here ya go, Choice of mood light colour and strap the dimmer to the dash brace, job done what more could you ask for. ebay item 170742186555 screw in clear bulb Item number: 270864511514 **** dimmer switch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Thanks guys for your replys, @ Alan, I don't want to modify the look of the rear panel (or bumperettes) : my TR2 has already a pair of side indicators, added on the rear panel, but I will, soon or later, remove them and blank the holes (it will be part of the body/paint job), so i need to relocate them somewhere else, preferably in the rear original wing lights, with the brake and side lights (ie 3 functions per light...) @ Colin, interesting, although this modification would certainly cause some problems with the French MOT, unfortunatly . @ Rob, sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by "Choice of mood light colour and strap the dimmer to the dash brace" ? BTW, I can gain access to item 270864511514, so don't see what it is Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Hi Chris, If you check out other items red, blue, green as well as clear. The item has finished but if you check out LED dimmers you will get the drift. Try this: Item number: 230661799335 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Hi Rob, And thanks, I'll have a look on this. Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
North London Mike Posted May 12, 2012 Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 A push button starter or cigarette lighter socket is a useful replacement if you feel like taking it out. .....................or on LNK, a cooling fan override switch, 2000 Mk1 pull switch, little bit more period than an orange kenlow switch . IMHO its the wrong side of the column for a power socket Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 (edited) Just renewed the illumination bulbs in all my TR3 instruments with LED. They are 'white' compared to 'orig dingy yellow' and a lot brighter my supplier sends in bags of 10 for under a fiver - takes about 2 weeks to arrive http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281128711970 Cheers Peter W Edited November 16, 2013 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve w Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Andrew check out the page before (2) on technical chat (led bulbs). I replaced all mine it made hell of a difference I can now read all the Dials in the dark! I bought mine from Better Car Lighting. Link to them on the other post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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