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Richard Baines

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About Richard Baines

  • Birthday 05/29/1988

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  1. I feel like we owe you both a debt of gratitude then as like you say Chris some of these panels are particularly important for restoring these cars correctly, and availability of parts is the main thing keeping them all on the road. I wonder how much appetite they have for doing other new tooling. I have a few Stanpart panels knocking about for the Spitfire that could be put to good use like that, though none as important as the TR4-6 sills.
  2. Thanks both thats really good info. We are thinking to pick up a pair to keep a good set of spares. I was thinking about their drawings, as I noticed on the BMH site they are talking about a project to digitise them and make them available. They could be a boon to restorers as its often guesswork trying to get pattern panels to fit, or to get a previously restored car back to factory tolerances.
  3. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/article/2021/04/0265/British-Motor-Heritage-announce-new-sills-for-TR4-6 has anyone had a chance to try these yet, or inspect them for accuracy?
  4. Great idea with the hinge holes Andy. You did a great job bare metalling, I've a ton of panels to do the same with. You mentioned using a DA sander, was that for everything or did you resort to hand sanding for the more awkward corners?
  5. Thanks for your responses guys, agree some great suggestions. I will have another look at the centre bush first, I didn't think it would be an issue as the polybushes aren't quite as tight on the shaft as I would have liked - but it can't hurt to rule it out.
  6. Thanks both, the shaft is definitely not bent. It's actually a new one from Martin @JochemsTR! The manifolds are aligned well, and the brackets are new, but the binding occurs with either the new brackets or the original ones. The new parts are all very well made and I've checked the tolerances. I am starting to wonder if the oilite bushes work better for others due a combination of slightly undersize countershafts due to wear (instead of a new one) and a bit of luck in the alignment of all the parts in totality. I could play about with fitment and alignment for ages, I guess th
  7. Hi Kev, old thread I know but hopefully you might remember. Did you have any issues with the countershaft binding in the bearings? I've had a go at this using the above bearingboys.co.uk oilite bearings for the 2 outers, and a cut polyurethane bush in the middle location. It works very smoothly until I tighten down the 2 outer bush brackets, at which point the countershaft binds and sticks leaving the throttles open - even with everything well oiled and the weight of the throttle spindle and throttle cable springs trying to stop it doing that. It even binds a bit with just one bronze
  8. Thanks Derek! That explains it then. Car is way past that (CP76xxx for chassis and engine) so happy to leave things as they are. @John McCormack Rimmer Brothers do sell them if you want them. Probably not worth the cost + postage to Aus though if they're superfluous...
  9. I've been refurbing the linkages on a 72 CP and have just finished welding up and redrilling the elongated holes in the butterfly to link rod brackets. The centre manifold had a mystery hole in the bracket, and upon reading the catalogues I discovered that it's for a 'slow running adjustment screw' - part 149805 that also has a spring (149552). The catalogues actually specify 3 (one on each spindle bracket), but the front and rear spindles could have been replaced at some point as they have no play at all. How important are these screws? I've never set the idle on the car, but I gues
  10. Hi Keith, the purpose behind the bar is to spread the force of a side impact into the edges of the door, and consequently the A and B pillars as they are much stronger than a door skin (obviously). For the passenger 'cage' in crash design it follows the opposite principle to crumple zones - the crumple zones in the front and back of the car take the energy and dissipate it to reduce energy passing to humans inside the car, where as you don't have the space for that in the passenger cage so you need to create a very strong structure that doesn't deform. I've got a pair of USA doors I'
  11. They weren't present on any UK model Spitfire through to 1980 so it seems unlikely Triumph would have put them on UK TR6s either (despite what the parts book says). Worth having though, extremely useful safety feature that doesn't detract at all cosmetically from the car's appearance.
  12. Water's bad reputation for corrosion comes from people using it without antifreeze (or concentrations that are too low), not changing it frequently enough, or using tap water. Those wierd floaty bits you get in your tea when using hard water don't help in an engine, and even if you're lucky enough to live somewhere like Yorkshire or Scotland with soft water, it's best to use distilled water instead of water from a tap. I use our dehumidifier as a source of distilled water, as it's no good for watering plants with (no impurities = no nutrients either).
  13. Wow lots of responses! Thanks a lot guys, really appreciate the help and plenty of options for me to try now. Since I've got an impact wrench, I think that's probably the first thing I will try (with a hexagonal socket), after I've filed the nuts clean a little. I think before I do that, I might add plenty of penetrating fluid and heat the nuts up a little bit as well, just to give it as much chance as possible of succeeding. Failing that, it sounds like the chisel method has worked for you guys so that's probably my next option. I don't have a welder (yet) but I'm in the market for on
  14. Dad's TR6 is up for MOT but to get it to pass we need to sort out a few issues with the vertical link. The arm that bolts onto it, for the TRE to join onto, has a loose nut/bolt - probably caused from a lot of dry steering in the garage whilst we were moving the car in and out to work on it. As far as I can see, the only way I can get to this bolt to tighten it, is to remove the brake disc, so set about doing that today and hit a snag. The car has had wire wheels from new, and has a bolt on adapter for the splines. My first thoughts to remove it were have someone hold down the foot bra
  15. Ah of course - yes must make sure I ask them about that, good point. Since I'm spraying at home, no isocyanates for me. Even cellulose can be pretty nasty if you don't use it in a ventilated area - maybe not necessarily carcinogenic but the fumes can give you quite a headache without proper equipment and venting. Good to know I have options for brushing, thanks for the tips/suggestions guys. I can think of a lot of instances where it's nicer just to sit and brush the paint on, particularly for small metal parts and accessories. I'd agree with that Pete re: the 3125. I didn't use anywhe
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