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Allan Westbury

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About Allan Westbury

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  • Birthday 08/01/1947

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A, TR7

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  1. If you log in to the members area of the club website you can now download the new digital version in an app. There are over 400 garages listed across Europe & all are kept up to date by the local clubs.
  2. Just to close this off i bought new shorter springs and plungers as per the book. To get around 30lb ft on third I was over 40 lb ft on 4th. During a conversation with Cox & Son about something else they said if I took it down to them they would service it while I waited. They replaced the short spring & plunger with the longer spring & ball on third/fourth, polished the shafts, replaced the O rings & copper greased the gear lever socket. There were a few broken pins involved and a bit of drilling so in the end I was pleased I had taken it down. The spring tension was meas
  3. Thanks for this. Have been out today so no further forward. I agree the gearstick rubber may be a contributing factor as I have the dual rubber arrangement (I think from the 6?) rather than the original 4A one piece. However with only a 15lb pull off anything would probably do it. Having had 3rd synchro problems before the rebuild this feels different (or is that wishful thinking?) in that a slight nudge back up on the gearstick keeps it in 3rd without having to apply any further pressure. Will try the new detent plungers & springs & see how I get on. Will also call Pete Cox
  4. Despite a fairly recent gearbox rebuild (In miles not years) the car will occasionally jump out of 3rd gear on over-run. Having stripped off the rear extension there is clearly wear on the top of the indent on the selector shaft. If I put a spring balance on the shaft it requires around 30-35 lb to come out of 4th but only around 15 lb to come out of 3rd which i believe is the problem. I have bought new plungers & springs for both the forward selector shafts but the shafts themselves are unobtainable. I have not yet fitted them but if i screw the 3rd/4th plunger in to give the corre
  5. I will be sorry to see you go Roger, your technical knowledge has been invaluable to me and many others. Hopefully you will still be available for technical advice. All the best, Allan
  6. Hi Steve, Have been following with interest! Either a parts list & circuit Diag for a 4A or more than happy to buy a unit off you on the next batch if you are happy to continue. thanks, Allan
  7. Cracking picture Roger, particularly after Rob's Manipulation. The fly past was certainly a highlight of the weekend and thank you Terry for organising it. Allan
  8. Thanks for all of this. I have today fitted LED bulbs in the headlights & took it to my friendly MOT tester to check the alignment was ok, so asked him the question. As Mike says additional lights are not mentioned in the MOT and as far as he is aware there is no regulation regarding their height from the road. As long as I wire them to only be on with the headlights he does not see an issue. Interestingly I have just measured the centre of the existing headlights at around 27" from the ground so perhaps Harvey's regulation applies just to the main headlights? Thanks all, Al
  9. I am doing the C2C in a couple of weeks and thought of adding a couple of driving/spotlights to come on with main beam. The easiest place to fit these on my TR7 is quite low to the ground and I wondered if : a) there was a legal minimum height off the road for driving (not Fog) lights b) whether lights mounted low down would actually be of any benefit? thanks, Allan
  10. I can confirm they are different. We took TS2 on a rolling road last week & when we tried to change the points in the DM2 distributor they were different to the 25D4 and we were not able to get any on the day. To my mind pertronix is a good upgrade although it will not cure any other faults in the distributor.
  11. My TR7 did fail on a couple of issues including the LEDs in the headlights but regarding the headlights the wording used was: "Existing halogen headlamps should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge(HID) or light emitting diode(LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp". I have now gone back to halogen lamps for the re-test today which passed other than emissions where I am still having a problem. I have spoken to TR Insurance this morning who have confirmed from the underwriter as below: “We are happy to confirm that we
  12. Hi Ian, I have recently fitted new winders, side channels & the correct TR4A glass from Moss. The only 'old' bit was the bottom channel as these are apparently unavailable. I had a slight problem but nothing like as bad as yours. TRGB recommended that rather than wedge the glass into the bottom channel use sikaflex as that way you can adjust the angle slightly before it sets. That is what I did and while not perfect it works fine. There is a lot on this forum on the difference between the TR6 glass & the 4A glass which has only become available in the last few months. ch
  13. To answer you Graham, Lesley Swain is our 'Top Dog' on this one and very competent at knocking a few heads together I can assure you! To answer Tony C, Spoken in jest or not, the days of 3000 hairy chested (sorry Ladies) TR owners turning up at an event like Malvern are well gone. Regretfully age takes it's toll! If we want a big event like those of old then collaboration is the name of the game - does that make us lambs? Cheers, Allan
  14. Thanks All, Just shampoo for now then probably a good quality wax polish. It is a pain twice a year but the satisfaction at the end of it makes it all worthwhile. I would probably use the ceramic on the eurobox ( indeed I paid BMW a fortune for this on the last car) but as the classic is now worth more than the BMW it will be waxed with care! Allan
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