John Morrison

Have to say I'm not keen on those clamps, for anything. Re the fuel pipe, I only ever use a 5/16 bolt, pull the Jubilee clip and have the bolt ready, shove it up the end, it will screw in by hand, pop a clip on and work to your hearts content. Another option for the future, learned on this forum, is that screwfix do an 8mm on/off tap ideal for our 5/16 copper fuel pipe, comes with two olives, and simplifies work for ever more. Agree with in line fuel filters, I have one before the pump and one before the carbs. An advantage if your car stops abruptly, look

Signed up after seeing this here and done the questionaire and have an appointmnet to give blood. Thanks for posting John.

Fixing something that ain't broke in my opinion I'm afarid. Sure it works well, and who knows why, but it would cost more than sorting an original Tr6 plus overdrive, to end up with two less gears? hey ho, John.

Hi John, I agree, but don't think I'd ever manage to 'Seal' the door completely, this is what I've come up with, draught proofing down the sides, just foam adhesive strip from Screwfix, brush strip along the bottom, and small diameter pipe insulation foam along the top of the door, mounted with some small aluminium angle, that I had lying around, Firstly I squirted expanding foam behind all the spars and arms in the door, then having trimmed this back to just leave what was behind the spar, cut and bonded 50mm thick 'Kingspan' thermal sheet

Took the opportunity to have a blast around the Nort Lakes Yesterday on a cool, crisp, bright, 'Wonderful to be alive kind of morning,' just stunning colours now;- a and then met up with Richard from Spain, on his way home with his Tr4A, collected from Stuarts, and doing some catching up, with friends and family in West cumberland;- John.

Can I just add to Ians comments here. I carry a 2kg AFFF fire extinguisher, and it sits under my legs in front of the drivers seat, I have never caught it entering or exiting the car, and my thinking is, should the awful happen, which is likely to be in the engine bay or under the dash, I can have killed the electrics with a kill switch fitted on the dash, pulled the bonnet pull, before the car stops rolling, then I'm out extinguisher in hand, to do what can be done. Originally the extinguisher was dry powder, but the fire prevention officer, (A while ago now) recomm

Heads up, Jo, has got herself a real bad dose of Covid/Flu and is quite poorly, consequently the office will be closed until at least Monday 28th. John.

Have a good one John John

Likewise, sorry to have missed this, but it looks like it was a good one, finished off nicely with your Bailey. John

Yes and Yes, thanks Trev., now sorted. John.

Easy enough to work our exactly what you have, Tim. Mark both flanges, paint, Tippex etc., and count the turns one of the output flanges makes for one full revolution of the input flange. John.

Thanka graham, now clarifies. John.

Hi Les, welcome to our forum. Indeed the 'Lift' on the gear-lever is to put reverse onto a different plain than the forward gears so its not possible to shift seamlessly from fourth to a fifth that isn't there! Achieved by a step in the reverse selector rods I've seen this step worn away over time, by lazy lifts on the stick, and then it was possible to go from fourth to fifth, John.

Hi all, bought two tickets for th e above for the Friday, with the club discount and haven't recieved anything yet, has anyone else? John.

Fraid it isn’t a good idea at all, it ruin s the tyre you can’t use it with tubes etc It should illegal so shop called space saver tyres or at least renamed cost saver tyres and that’s for the manufacturer John

Hi, a name would be nice, we are a freindly crowd. Just checking, these are the straps you need to make? If yes, then they are 40 x 3mm flat bar, I make mine 440mm long thats curled tip to curled tip, and the hole centres are as best as I can measure 415mm apart. Hope this helps but get back to us, if you need anything else. John.

This has come up before, and I'm pretty sure TS 2 has a steering box, just a very well sorted one. John.

No more complex than that, you’ll need proper wheel nuts but if it works for you and next spring you fit spacers then it really is straight stops from then on John

Happy birthday Tim, have a good day. ..and thanks for being a moderator, and for your prosepective on subjects, on our forum. John.

Absolutely Stuart by passed only to ‘Prove’ the problem John

All good guys sure we sort with ease thanks John

Following on from my post 'TR6 dies' and the forums help in identifying a faulty original TR6 inertia switch, I now need a pointer or two on what to or not to buy? Seems original is not available, and th eusual supplier soffer a modern type with a fitting kit, anyone any experiences good or bad please? John.

Well by passing the inertia switch seems to have been a 'Cure' so thanks to all who replied. John.

Thanks all, I'm working on serious draughtproofing first, sealing the door as best as is possible, I'm OK as I have a seperate entry door, from the garage to the house, so it can stay closed - thus keeping the heat in, or at least the cold out? Then I'll look at the actual door itself. I'll ket you know what I think worked for me. John.

Many thanks guys be a nice inexpensive cure John