Lebro

Both bonnet & boot. also the boot floor is different, it has a raised section where the spare wheel lives underneath it. This was to allow an easier fit for the spare. The Rear seat area was also quite different, being a flat platform on the post 60000 cars Bob

But is there some slack on the clutch rod with pedal right up? Bob

Are the copper washers on the banjo the right way round ? The one with the larger hole goes against the filter housing Bob

That told me !! Bob

Another common one I get lots of is "Have you seen these pictures" or similar wording, & the sender appears to be someone you know, but isn't. Bob

I agree (nominaly) but I did this mod in 2013 before ethanol became known to cause problems, so the pipe I used would have been nothing special. It's still ok ! Bob

Swap the cork for a suitable size of fuel pipe in the tap - worked for me for the last 11 years. Bob

I have always been able to twist them off without touching the tags (once removed from the car) Bob

I think you mean 14 ft Lb's

Ah, I see it is the bell housing side ! that makes more sense now ! Bob

I'm with Ralph here, simply blow (via a length of hose) the fuel back into the tank, that willclear (for the time being) any obstruction. I used to do this from time to time on my 1935 Hillman when it would die on me. cause was "stuff" in the tank which would block the exit pipe. finally cured by multiple draining, & flushing of the tank, & finally fitting an internal filter. Bob

No idea why that hole would be there, the countershaft is along the bottom of the box, & there is nothing on that you would need to get to. it needs to be "bunged" up properly to prevent the oil from draining out. & No the clutch cylinder pipe should not simply pull off ! Bob

Well done Roger, top work (I would expect nothing less) Bob

Pretty sure that when I bought a new switch inorder to add 2nd gear overdrive capability to my T2000 gearbox that it would not screw into the original threaded hole ( I swapped the switches around- can't remember why!) So opened up with the metric tap. Bob

I have the same style of (original) tap on the block & the Red, neither leak. Bob

No specific sequence, but go round them all doing a bit at a time on each. Bob

Maybe not tightened up enough ? Bob

M16 X 2 is very close & I have a feeling that repro switches might be that thread anyway. Bob

Did you poke through the tap, or after tap was removed. You can get much further in the 2nd way. Bob

Still got the TR Action copy ! Bob

Did mine the hard way, front off, rad out, cleaned up & re-soldered. Bob

A known weak point on these rads. Bob

At risk of repeating myself !! Can you measure the volts between earth, & the "X" terminal on the flasher unit with ignition on, engine not running. That may give you a clue. if you a good 12V (or very close) at "X" (while trying to indicate one way or the other) that eliminates any bad connection up to that point. after that it is the run from "L" on the flasher unit to the indicator switch. beyond that there are two separate circuits - left & right. they won't both be faulty. Bob

You have earthed the flying lead from the flasher unit haven't you ? Bob

Ok, sounds good, unless it has become faulty. Can you measure the volts between earth, & the "X" terminal on the flasher unit with ignition on, engine not running. That may give you a clue. Bob