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Mr Blue Sky

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About Mr Blue Sky

  • Birthday 07/12/1960

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  • Location
    Malvern, Worcestershire.

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  1. Hi All, I will give the diesel a go - need to commandeer one of the better half's spray cleaner bottles. Suspect the diesel will destroy the pump PDQ, but may last long enough to get the captive nuts soaked. Thanks everyone. Laurence
  2. Hi Phil, thanks for the steer - Bromyard is only a short trip so I will give them a call. I need to work out how to get some WD40 on the captive nuts next. I have a long weekend coming up so will take a better look at how I get behind the rubber mud shield. Never let it be said that these cars don't throw up some challenges!! Regards, Laurence
  3. Hi Ian, yes, I have an old "hit it with a lump hammer' impact driver. My batt powered impact driver wouldn't generate enough of an impulse to get them moving. Maybe need to get my hands on of those 24V monsters....... Rgds, Laurence
  4. Thanks for the responses, I still can't get the hinges off the A post so this may all be academic.
  5. Hello all, I am thinking about repairing my door hinges on my 56 TR3, as they have so much play that that are taking the paint off the sills when I close the doors. I am trying the local machine shops to see if any of them are interested in drilling out the worn pins and fitting oversized pins (I seem to recall a post on the forum about using 6.5mm dia silver steel). However, if I draw a blank locally (Malvern), does anyone on here have the interest and capability to do the job for me? I will of course offer suitable compensation and pay for all postage and materials. I have looked o
  6. Hi All, need some help/guidance on getting my door hinges off. The doors drop about 1/2" when they close and it keeps taking the paint off the sills. I have removed the driver's door but cannot get the screws holding it to the 'A' post to turn or as an alternative drift the pin out. I have used an impact driver on the screws but no joy and I am loathe to keep doing this in case I damage the slot too much. The pin in the upper hinge rotates when you rotate the hinge and you can see the slop in the hinge, but I'm bu**ered if I can them to shift. Any suggestions on how I might resol
  7. FWIW, you can download a pdf version to your desktop from the Moss website - not quite the same as having a dog-eared oil stained copy in the workshop, but better than nothing! One positive is that you can now take it to bed without getting oil/grease/brake fluid on the duvet! https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/tr2-4a-parts-catalogue-tr2cat.html Laurence
  8. Hi all, really interesting thread that I have been following avidly. I anticipate doing this to my 3 in the next few years to remedy a number of oil leaks so this is a 'how to' guide of significant interest. I was also interested to read about the potential to use plastic for the FO8 seals. I would caution against that based on my experience of using High Temperature Polyethylene in an engineering application some years ago. HTPE 'creeps' due to temperature and stress - the combination of both in our engines being much higher than that in the Citroen engine would, I suspect, be
  9. Tony, I might be able to help. I have fitted a T7 but have kept the original. I could let you have the matrix, but I will keep the rest. Let me know if you are still looking. Regards, Laurence
  10. Hi Roger, That is what I normally use in the TR so will probably stick to it - I was just curious as it looks (and sounds like - green similar to Duckhams) like the Halfords 20/50 but with a slightly different picture on the tin. Anyway, will stick to what I know..... Best wishes, Laurence
  11. Hi All, has anybody got any experience of using this? https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-5l-20w50-classic-car-oil/p/0342792 I read the reviews and looked at the spec - no mention of ZDDP but appears to be the same stuff that is sold by Halfords, just cheaper. It has all the SAE classifications I would normally look for. Just curious at this time, haven't bought any yet but may give it a try when I change the oil this winter. If there are any engine oil chemists on the forum I'd happily buy some and send a sample for analysis. Cheers, Laurence
  12. FWIW, I had the CW&P fail on my Lockheed axle so did a 1-for-1 swap with a good condition one from TR Bitz. I had to fit all the other bits from my axle and in the course of that I used 1/2 shielded bearings (shield facing the backplate) with speedi sleeves on the stubs. Haven't had an issue with 'wet' brakes since and as extra insurance I have made sure the breather is kept clean so as not to pressurise the casing. So far so good as they say!
  13. Hi Ian, FWIW, I had my 3 breakdown last year, I suspected a dropped valve but it turned out that the no1 rocker shaft pedestal stud had failed. This caused no1 cylinder to misfire and created quite the racket. Something to check before you strip everything else down. Regards, Laurence
  14. Hi Stuart, I spoke to the manufacturer and they agreed the run-out was too much and they are taking them back. Currently waiting for them to be picked up. Regards,
  15. Stuart, these are 10" 'Alfins' not the 9" version, sorry, should have made that clear. Regards,
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