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Mr Blue Sky

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About Mr Blue Sky

  • Birthday 07/12/1960

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  • Location
    Malvern, Worcestershire.

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  1. Hi Peter, I tried tech hose and they can come up with a Heath Robinson affair of a couple of different adapters, but they will be special order. If you do have a tube nut, I'd be happy to buy one off you plus postage and packing. Let me know the damage and I can arrange payment. Regards, Laurence
  2. Hi All, I am replacing the pattern master cylinder with a refurbished original Lockheed master cylinder. The problem I have is that my pipe fittings are UNF (3/8" & 7/16") and the outlet ports are BSP (1/8"). While I can replace the 1st section of the brake system with a mix of 1/8" BSP and 3/8" UNF fittings, the clutch pipe is a different issue. Does anyone know where I can get a union which is 1/8" BSP male and 7/16" UNF female? If I can get an union that does the brake line too, so much the better. Any help and/or guidance gratefully received. Thanks and regards, Laurence
  3. I recall reading in a Triumph motorcycle bookthat the contact point should be offset to one side to encourage the valve to rotate slightly each timeit is opened/closed. Have no evidence to support this claim but maybe some of the racing fraternity may be able to confirm/deny it's veracity. Laurence
  4. Here's my 1974 Triumph Trident. Before and after!
  5. Nobby, Thanks for your reply, you wouldn't have a spare one knocking around would you? Regards,
  6. Ian, my apologies, I had no intention to plagiarise your earlier post. I have since opened the split section of the dipstick so that it cannot rotate easily. Regards,
  7. One other thing that you may want to consider, is the coil, as they heat up the insulation can break down and give the symptoms you describe. The previous forumites are right to point out the condenser/rotor arm too. My wheeled vehicle mechanics course instructors at REME Borden always said check those items 1st when fault finding a misfiring engine. One last one, if your coil is now on the inner wheel arch as opposed to the block, check the dipstick isn't touching the terminals - don't ask how I know. Regards, Laurence
  8. Hi all, I know the consensus is to swap a Lockheed axle out, but so far it is working out ok. However, today I noticed that the axle tapers/spacers are different (see photo) one is 20mm deep while the other is 25mm deep. Can someone tell me which is the right one and whether anyone has one going spare? Best wishes, Laurence
  9. Hi All, I am contemplating trying to install a modern coil and use the outer as a heat sink, whether that ends up heating the coil rather than cooling it, remains to be seen. The current coil has a primary resistance of 3.0 Ohms and a secondary resistance of 7.6k Ohms. I need to put a megger across it to see if the insulation resistance is okay, but it may be worth giving it a go. Laurence
  10. I thought I'd attached a picture but it didn't upload.
  11. Hi all, Has anyone seen one of these before? Came in the box of bits I was given with the car. Not sure it was fitted to my 56 TR3 but thought I'd post it out of curiosity. Regards,
  12. Hi Ian, I'd be interested in it. My replica m/cyl leaks fluid past the cap as the vents are directly beneath the cap. The manual says rotate it 180 degrees, but the cover has 5 screws not 6 so can't be done. Regards,
  13. Pete, I plan on being there. Laurence
  14. Hi all, As a returnee to the Register after an absence of 25 years, I am looking for some advice on where to get a good quality Lockheed m/c. The PO had a replacement fitted by his preferred garage in July 2016, but it is weeping on both bores already. So before I replace it, I thought I'd ask about where I might get one that lasts longer than 15months and 1200 miles! It is for a 56 TR3 still running drums and a Lockheed axle (that featured on the forum in July 17). Thanks, Laurence
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