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Mr Blue Sky

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About Mr Blue Sky

  • Birthday 07/12/1960

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  • Location
    Malvern, Worcestershire.

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  1. Peter, many thanks for sending this through and for the advice on brass exhaust manifold nuts - we used to use them on series 3 & lightweight land rovers when I was in the Marines. Regards, Laurence
  2. Hi All, my cylinder head for my TR3 went in for some work recently, valve seats, guides, valves, gas-flowing and a small repair. I neglected to remove the In/Ex manifold studs before sending it to the shop and I didn't take pictures of what went where. I can work it with a bit of trial and error, but thought I'd ask if anyone on the forum had a sketch showing the layout? It's a 4A head but with standard TR3 inlet/exhaust manifolds. Regards, Laurence
  3. Hi Tom, Thanks for the clearer picture, that is a nice looking drum. No doubt they are another regiment that has been absorbed and amalgamated until they bear no resemblance to what they once were or the county they originated from. Regards, Laurencekirk (aka Mr Blue Sky).
  4. What regimental crest/honours are on the drum?
  5. Hi Peter, I tried tech hose and they can come up with a Heath Robinson affair of a couple of different adapters, but they will be special order. If you do have a tube nut, I'd be happy to buy one off you plus postage and packing. Let me know the damage and I can arrange payment. Regards, Laurence
  6. Hi All, I am replacing the pattern master cylinder with a refurbished original Lockheed master cylinder. The problem I have is that my pipe fittings are UNF (3/8" & 7/16") and the outlet ports are BSP (1/8"). While I can replace the 1st section of the brake system with a mix of 1/8" BSP and 3/8" UNF fittings, the clutch pipe is a different issue. Does anyone know where I can get a union which is 1/8" BSP male and 7/16" UNF female? If I can get an union that does the brake line too, so much the better. Any help and/or guidance gratefully received. Thanks and regards, Laurence
  7. I recall reading in a Triumph motorcycle bookthat the contact point should be offset to one side to encourage the valve to rotate slightly each timeit is opened/closed. Have no evidence to support this claim but maybe some of the racing fraternity may be able to confirm/deny it's veracity. Laurence
  8. Nobby, Thanks for your reply, you wouldn't have a spare one knocking around would you? Regards,
  9. Ian, my apologies, I had no intention to plagiarise your earlier post. I have since opened the split section of the dipstick so that it cannot rotate easily. Regards,
  10. One other thing that you may want to consider, is the coil, as they heat up the insulation can break down and give the symptoms you describe. The previous forumites are right to point out the condenser/rotor arm too. My wheeled vehicle mechanics course instructors at REME Borden always said check those items 1st when fault finding a misfiring engine. One last one, if your coil is now on the inner wheel arch as opposed to the block, check the dipstick isn't touching the terminals - don't ask how I know. Regards, Laurence
  11. Hi all, I know the consensus is to swap a Lockheed axle out, but so far it is working out ok. However, today I noticed that the axle tapers/spacers are different (see photo) one is 20mm deep while the other is 25mm deep. Can someone tell me which is the right one and whether anyone has one going spare? Best wishes, Laurence
  12. Hi All, I am contemplating trying to install a modern coil and use the outer as a heat sink, whether that ends up heating the coil rather than cooling it, remains to be seen. The current coil has a primary resistance of 3.0 Ohms and a secondary resistance of 7.6k Ohms. I need to put a megger across it to see if the insulation resistance is okay, but it may be worth giving it a go. Laurence
  13. I thought I'd attached a picture but it didn't upload.
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