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Mr Blue Sky

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About Mr Blue Sky

  • Birthday 07/12/1960

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  • Location
    Malvern, Worcestershire.

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  1. Tony, I might be able to help. I have fitted a T7 but have kept the original. I could let you have the matrix, but I will keep the rest. Let me know if you are still looking. Regards, Laurence
  2. Hi Roger, That is what I normally use in the TR so will probably stick to it - I was just curious as it looks (and sounds like - green similar to Duckhams) like the Halfords 20/50 but with a slightly different picture on the tin. Anyway, will stick to what I know..... Best wishes, Laurence
  3. Hi All, has anybody got any experience of using this? https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-5l-20w50-classic-car-oil/p/0342792 I read the reviews and looked at the spec - no mention of ZDDP but appears to be the same stuff that is sold by Halfords, just cheaper. It has all the SAE classifications I would normally look for. Just curious at this time, haven't bought any yet but may give it a try when I change the oil this winter. If there are any engine oil chemists on the forum I'd happily buy some and send a sample for analysis. Cheers, Laurence
  4. FWIW, I had the CW&P fail on my Lockheed axle so did a 1-for-1 swap with a good condition one from TR Bitz. I had to fit all the other bits from my axle and in the course of that I used 1/2 shielded bearings (shield facing the backplate) with speedi sleeves on the stubs. Haven't had an issue with 'wet' brakes since and as extra insurance I have made sure the breather is kept clean so as not to pressurise the casing. So far so good as they say!
  5. Hi Ian, FWIW, I had my 3 breakdown last year, I suspected a dropped valve but it turned out that the no1 rocker shaft pedestal stud had failed. This caused no1 cylinder to misfire and created quite the racket. Something to check before you strip everything else down. Regards, Laurence
  6. Hi Stuart, I spoke to the manufacturer and they agreed the run-out was too much and they are taking them back. Currently waiting for them to be picked up. Regards,
  7. Stuart, these are 10" 'Alfins' not the 9" version, sorry, should have made that clear. Regards,
  8. Hi Peter, they are a pair of 'brand new' Alfins - 1can be adjusted so that the shoes are just 'kissing' the drum, the other has a definite point in its rotation where the shoes bind so they adjusters have to be eased off an additional click. I fitted the drum loosely on its screws then got my sone to press hard on the brake pedal to centralise the drum. I then fitted the screws and wire wheel adapter while maintaining pressure on the pedal. This has helped, but I still get a vibration through the car. I think I will have to remove both and send them back to be replaced/re-machined.
  9. Hi All, does any one have any reliable data on the maximum amount of run-out (eccentricity) that a 10" drum can have? I have approx 0.012" (0.3mm) on a drum I have and I think that is causing the vibration I am feeling when braking. I have found some data on a truck brake website that states 0.010" (0.25mm) is the max, but wondered if anyone on the forum had anything better? Thanks in advance, Laurence p.s. I do have a bit of video footage if anyone wants to see the 'swing' on the dial gauge
  10. Hi chaps, I have been thinking of replacing the hinge pins on my 3 too, so was very interested in your comments and approach. My doors drop so much that they are taking the paint off the sills. So doing this repair would save me a lot of heartache. One question, and apologies if it seems a bit stupid, but to repair/replace the pins, I assume you take the doors off? If so, can you just unscrew the 4 screws/hinge shown in the photo (are there captive nuts in the A post?). Yours, Laurence
  11. Peter, many thanks for sending this through and for the advice on brass exhaust manifold nuts - we used to use them on series 3 & lightweight land rovers when I was in the Marines. Regards, Laurence
  12. Hi All, my cylinder head for my TR3 went in for some work recently, valve seats, guides, valves, gas-flowing and a small repair. I neglected to remove the In/Ex manifold studs before sending it to the shop and I didn't take pictures of what went where. I can work it with a bit of trial and error, but thought I'd ask if anyone on the forum had a sketch showing the layout? It's a 4A head but with standard TR3 inlet/exhaust manifolds. Regards, Laurence
  13. Hi Tom, Thanks for the clearer picture, that is a nice looking drum. No doubt they are another regiment that has been absorbed and amalgamated until they bear no resemblance to what they once were or the county they originated from. Regards, Laurencekirk (aka Mr Blue Sky).
  14. What regimental crest/honours are on the drum?
  15. Hi Peter, I tried tech hose and they can come up with a Heath Robinson affair of a couple of different adapters, but they will be special order. If you do have a tube nut, I'd be happy to buy one off you plus postage and packing. Let me know the damage and I can arrange payment. Regards, Laurence
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