ken foster Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Hi, what would I be expected to pay for an old stock genuine TR2/3 Stanpart front outer wing? (Assuming I find one) Regards Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 £1200- £1500. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted November 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 £1200- £1500. John. Gulp!!! Really? Is that lower figure dependant on condition? e.g. a few dents and scratches picked up in the last 50-60 years. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Try buying a TR4 wing, it's worse ! Slight dents and scratches are the norm, it's 50 years old ! and easily sorted when being resprayed, find another if you can. I'd say John is on the money, and it still depends upon the owner wanting to negotiate. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Be aware you hype the prices at your own peril. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Makes the used ones on eBay worth fettling ?! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 A Fibreglass one would look nice(smile) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Also bear in mind that the reason that a Stanpart original panel is available at all is due to the fact that it never fitted on the line in the first place so it was sent out to the dealer as a "Replacement panel" for accident repairs etc. Therefore it will still need fettling to fit, something you may want to remember when coughing up good money for one. Unless what you have is missing or totally cream-crackered it is always best to repair what you have. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 What happened to the stash of panels purchased by a trr member not so long ago? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 He is still trying to sort through them I believe. He has a day job so not enough time to devote to them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 He is still trying to sort through them I believe. He has a day job so not enough time to devote to them. Stuart. Yep and website to sort. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 Also bear in mind that the reason that a Stanpart original panel is available at all is due to the fact that it never fitted on the line in the first place so it was sent out to the dealer as a "Replacement panel" for accident repairs etc. Therefore it will still need fettling to fit, something you may want to remember when coughing up good money for one. Unless what you have is missing or totally cream-crackered it is always best to repair what you have. Stuart. +1, I remember buying a pair of rear wings for TR in 1971, .... got them off the shelf and over the counter from Clarendon Cars (Triumph dealer near Baker Street station, London) they took ages to persuade into position and mostly fitted where they touched!!, but 'cause I bothered to seal and protect them they are still on the car today. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 How about new ones? It took us much effort to repair and modify original replacement wings, because like stuart said, they fitted poorly. But it was quite difficult to weld the old metal. Since you have to spend so much time to modify original ones, why not use that Same time to modify the new ones ( which fit poorly too) , but work with fresh metal? Any opinion on that? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 (edited) I have a car set of new unfitted sidescreen outer wings spare. They have been etch primed only as they arrived bare metal. They are Moss repro, - NDM or Bastuk made I guess. Yes - I know this is NOT BST. Price would be what I paid. Peter W Edited November 18, 2017 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 How about new ones? It took us much effort to repair and modify original replacement wings, because like stuart said, they fitted poorly. But it was quite difficult to weld the old metal. Since you have to spend so much time to modify original ones, why not use that Same time to modify the new ones ( which fit poorly too) , but work with fresh metal? Any opinion on that? If you talk about the Bastuck panels for a TR4 they are not the same gauge as the originals, they are (I think) 22 gauge rather than the original 18 gauge. There are enough lack of safety features on a TR without compromising the original integrity panel thickness, I agree there's an argument whether a new 22 gauge wing is stronger than a 50 year old 18 gauge wing if it has any attendant corrosion but if the wing is inspected and repaired properly I can't see how that would apply. Not sure about any sidescreen car panels if turned out in new. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin Fairhurst Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 When I enquired with one of the suppliers about the thickness difference they told me that it was only the difference between British Standard Wire Gauge and the nearest metric thickness. Regards, Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 "only the difference between British Standard Wire Gauge and the nearest metric thickness." Well I suppose that's correct but that's like saying the difference between a horse and a camel is only the hump...it isn't. http://www.firemountaingems.com/resources/encyclobeadia/charts/6404 TR panels were made from 18 gauge at 40 thou thick making it 1.2mm metric 18 0.04 1.02 Shop 18 Gauge Wire 19 0.036 0.91 Shop 19 Gauge Wire 20 0.032 0.81 Shop 20 Gauge Wire 21 0.028 0.71 Shop 21 Gauge Wire 22 0.025 0.64 Shop 22 Gauge Wire If the panels are in 22 Gauge as you can see they are only 25 thou thick at .64 mm metric. That makes them over 40% thinner ! just think of the weight saving if applied throughout the car ! Of course it would come with a substantial reduction in shell rigidity and even if only 1 wing at this thickness is fitted sods law says this will be the panel taking a frontal impact from another car or truck in an accident...hmmm, nope I'll buy or repair 18 gauge thanks. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 Is it AWG or SWG Mick? 18SWG is 48thou / 1.22mm 22SWG is 28thou / .711mm Still not good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted November 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 Is it AWG or SWG Mick? 18SWG is 48thou / 1.22mm 22SWG is 28thou / .711mm Still not good. I think they were 20g which is 36thou if I remember, and the metric equivalent is not far off. (Mick said he wasn't sure of gauge) All my panels are 36thou 20 gauge. ken BTW. Thanks to all for the input! No one has argued with the 1200 to £1500 amount so must be about right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 Stuart is the man for the gauges ...he repairs them all the time - SSStttuuuuuaaaarrrttttt ! Micky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Original panels vary depending on how deep a draw was needed to press them obviously but the general gauge was 18SWG to start with. The new Bastuck panels although pretty good in fit and form are 20 gauge with a powder type coating on both side so feel thicker, they are made in this gauge as they arent using the type of presses that the originals were made on. Having had someone go right down the side of my 4a at a high terminal speed (I was doing about 60 and he was probably doing the same the other way) and seeing the damage and how well the car stood up to it I`m with Mick in not really fancying any thinner steel round me! FWIW the panelling on an Italia is about 17SWG or about 1.4mm! Certainly thicker than a TR. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted November 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Original panels vary depending on how deep a draw was needed to press them obviously but the general gauge was 18SWG to start with. The new Bastuck panels although pretty good in fit and form are 20 gauge with a powder type coating on both side so feel thicker, they are made in this gauge as they arent using the type of presses that the originals were made on. Having had someone go right down the side of my 4a at a high terminal speed (I was doing about 60 and he was probably doing the same the other way) and seeing the damage and how well the car stood up to it I`m with Mick in not really fancying any thinner steel round me! FWIW the panelling on an Italia is about 17SWG or about 1.4mm! Certainly thicker than a TR. Stuart. I've mic'd up my original TR2 rear wings and long doors, (all bare metal) also the one original old stock Stanpart front wing I have. They are all 20 gauge 36 thou". Could it be that only the TR4/5 panels are 18swg? They do appear more sturdy to me. (not that I've ever owned a TR4 or a 5) Triumph probably made the TR2 as light as possible to obtain that magic all important 100mph figure. Regards Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted November 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 How about new ones? It took us much effort to repair and modify original replacement wings, because like stuart said, they fitted poorly. But it was quite difficult to weld the old metal. Since you have to spend so much time to modify original ones, why not use that Same time to modify the new ones ( which fit poorly too) , but work with fresh metal? Any opinion on that? Is old metal any harder to weld than new, or was it because of contamination? Any metallurgists or welding experts on the forum? Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Only if its rusty! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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