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Bastuck hubs


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#81 astontr6

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 05:23 PM

Roger,

 

Still for me I would certainly like to know what grade of steel tubing they use for the crush tube as this will play a major part in keeping the end float at its original setting?  By the way your work friend described another way that I was used to in setting up this type of bearing.  We always used Shell Retinex but I cannot remember the grade ,as there is grease and grease, remember clutch bearings!. This might also be an area worth exploring?

 

Taking your point; was it assembled dry/? Reading my Brown Book para18, it could be interpreted that the bearing race is not packed with grease but only the housing at 1/2 full?

Bruce.


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#82 RogerH

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 05:58 PM

Hi Bruce,

               the crush tube was not mentioned.  I would have thought a wide range of steels would suffice.

I'm also sure there is the exception that causes chaos.

 

Roger


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Time is a drug - Too much will kill you
Forgive your enemy, but remember the ass-hole's name.
never surrender, never give up and always balance your butterflies

Veni Vidi Flati
TR4A - July 1967 daily driver         2010 RBRR No.22  2014 RBRR No.69
TR4 - March 1962 transforming like the proverbial caterpillar - it's now Royal Blue and now with the chromy bits.
 
 
 
 
 

#83 roy53

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 06:20 PM

So pleased i went with the race proven ones from Enterprises .used by all racing TRs , cosworth i believe .

 

 

Roy


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#84 TRTOM2498PI

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 08:18 PM

Hi Roy,

 

Yes, they are. Cosworth derived driveshafts, with Quaife hubs. Fit and forget.

 

 

Cheers.


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#85 Kevo_6

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 09:30 PM

Well I went with the TR shop Bastuck hubs as highly recommended on here, they are just fitted but not road tested as of yet. Well I am totally demoralised and not a clue what to do next. Bugger!!!
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Cheers Kev.


#86 RogerH

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 08:37 AM

Hi Kev,

                don't panic.  So far there has been one report of a hub that had excessive end float.

Be happy with your hubs but do as I will be doing, with the Moss hubs, and check them frequently (every couple of weeks or so).

 

Roger


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Time is a drug - Too much will kill you
Forgive your enemy, but remember the ass-hole's name.
never surrender, never give up and always balance your butterflies

Veni Vidi Flati
TR4A - July 1967 daily driver         2010 RBRR No.22  2014 RBRR No.69
TR4 - March 1962 transforming like the proverbial caterpillar - it's now Royal Blue and now with the chromy bits.
 
 
 
 
 

#87 Kevo_6

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 11:43 AM

Hi Kev,
                don't panic.  So far there has been one report of a hub that had excessive end float.
Be happy with your hubs but do as I will be doing, with the Moss hubs, and check them frequently (every couple of weeks or so).
 
Roger

Thanks Roger, what would you suggest to be a good way of checking the hubs are you using a dial gauge or just your eye?
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Cheers Kev.


#88 RogerH

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 05:20 PM

Hi Kev,

                   firstly no need for a DTI. Raise a wheel off the ground hold it at 12 & 6-o-clock and waggle it.

With the correct 0.002" - 0.004" there will be the very faintest amount of play.

As it wears the waggle gets bigger and becomes easily noticeable.

 

If the wear gets too big you will hear it rumbling both when driving and by spinning by hand.

 

Roger 


Edited by RogerH, 19 February 2017 - 05:20 PM.

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Time is a drug - Too much will kill you
Forgive your enemy, but remember the ass-hole's name.
never surrender, never give up and always balance your butterflies

Veni Vidi Flati
TR4A - July 1967 daily driver         2010 RBRR No.22  2014 RBRR No.69
TR4 - March 1962 transforming like the proverbial caterpillar - it's now Royal Blue and now with the chromy bits.
 
 
 
 
 

#89 Casar66

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 06:07 PM

Roger,

what is a "DTI"?


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#90 RogerH

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 06:14 PM

Hi Cas,

           Dial Test Indicator  https://en.wikipedia...ing_instrument)

 

Roger


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Time is a drug - Too much will kill you
Forgive your enemy, but remember the ass-hole's name.
never surrender, never give up and always balance your butterflies

Veni Vidi Flati
TR4A - July 1967 daily driver         2010 RBRR No.22  2014 RBRR No.69
TR4 - March 1962 transforming like the proverbial caterpillar - it's now Royal Blue and now with the chromy bits.
 
 
 
 
 

#91 astontr6

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 08:18 PM

Roger,

 

My GKN hubs/drive shafts  lasted 40 years one has 005" end float the other about 012"+ thou + the race(s) felt a bit rough, MOT man pulled me on this! They were both retired 2+ years ago when I went over to CV's of German manufacture. The other problem was that one drive shaft had worn splines even though u/j's & spines were greased regularly. I never replaced any of the u/j's. I always used the black grease. Therefore, in my view once the end float is set up, it should last many years.

 

Bruce.


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#92 Clarkey

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Posted 19 February 2017 - 08:24 PM

I did tell you mate ;)

Sorry neil can't remember  that one :blink:  as if you had said not to bother with them i would have not done so  :unsure:


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Is That New?
No dear I have had it for ages!!!!!!!!!!!!
The Triumph TR6 is "the blokiest bloke's car ever built". James May BBC Top Gear
 

 

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#93 Kevo_6

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 10:15 AM

Hi Kev,
                   firstly no need for a DTI. Raise a wheel off the ground hold it at 12 & 6-o-clock and waggle it.
With the correct 0.002" - 0.004" there will be the very faintest amount of play.
As it wears the waggle gets bigger and becomes easily noticeable.
 
If the wear gets too big you will hear it rumbling both when driving and by spinning by hand.
 
Roger

Thanks Roger.
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Cheers Kev.





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