Fireman049 Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) . Edited November 20, 2015 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Hi Tom yes they are very loud and as you say very expensive if you need a pair! Must admit the photo was "scabbed" off ebay as mine are sitting on the shelf awaiting refitting. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Hi I have a brand new unused Moss ducting Part No 803440/8 you can have for half the list price + postage if you are interested. Please PM me for your email address if you are interested. Cheers, Gordon Thanks Gordon, but at circa £12 Mike will probably get one from Moss / Rimmers / TR shop. Thanks anyway. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Hi Mac. I used two lengths of swimming pool hose for about €1.50 each ( one for each carb) and they are far more versatile. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Hi Tom, The reason for my post is because on my car it all gets pretty tight under there as the attached photo shows. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Hi Mac. I used two lengths of swimming pool hose for about €1.50 each ( one for each carb) and they are far more versatile. Dave Dave, Hark you with your 'swimming pool' hose - over here we call it flood pump hose !!! Good idea though as a little more versatile - assuming you can get enough air though the narrower pipe at typical UK road speeds. The wife is planning to accelerate our retirement to Frigiliana, so need efficient cooling in place - - although thinking about the way she phrased it, might have been 'her' retirement ! Otherwise I still have 14 years to wait. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Austin I live in Spain where it is considerably hotter than U.K. I was just telling Tom (Fireman 49) that I had to deflect the air off of the inner wheel arch, as direct they gave too much air, reflected in the whiter plugs. I changed the mixture slightly as well, and of course the engine now runs at it´s optimum temperature even on days over 40ºC and most of the time the Kenlowe is not even working, only when I over-ride it in Traffic. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Hi I have a brand new unused Moss ducting Part No 803440/8 you can have for half the list price + postage if you are interested. Please PM me for your email address if you are interested. Cheers, Gordon Gordon. PM sent regarding the above. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Here's a photo. of the all important upper section. This MUST be fitted for perfect cooling. Take a look at the air intake of a TR2/3 before they removed the upper section. Tom. I have the standard cardboard setup with a tropical fan, no overheating problems this summer with the outside tempratures hitting close to 40°C and a couple of traffic jams to deal with cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 I have the standard cardboard setup with a tropical fan, no overheating problems this summer with the outside tempratures hitting close to 40°C and a couple of traffic jams to deal with cheers Alan I have the same setup and the same results this year, Alan. My car's temperature does increase but it hasn't puked or gotten so hot I've worried about it. Are you running an overflow bottle, too? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) . Edited November 20, 2015 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Tom, Presumably with a 13 psi cap you're not using a bellows type thermostat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) Useful calculator here: http://www.calctool.org/CALC/chem/substance/boiling Example calculation showing bellows type thermostat action at 4 PSI against 13 PSI I'm guessing Tom is using a waxstat. Bob. Edited November 14, 2015 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Tom, is your engine running yet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) . Edited November 20, 2015 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) Just for completeness and for those that don't know, a bellows type stat will not operate reliably (if at all) above 7 psi. Edited November 14, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Tom I would be careful using that sort of pressure on an original type heater. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) ,,, Edited November 19, 2015 by Fireman049 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Tom I did the same with mine but took it out when I fitted the ali duct.. I took the centre out of the thermostat as well, but I´m not sure if I put it back when the duct was fitted. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Bump Gordon. PM sent regarding the above. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) I use the Moss remake card board item and hack holes in it for air duct and oil cooler hoses. In 10 years the card has gone a bit mishapen as I did nothing but assemble and fit - no varnish or paint to protect it. The air hose goes thus, with a trumpet at each end. 9 quid off the bay and is colour coordinated (sort of) Scares the opposition in the paddock too. PS Simple to remove when doing tappets - just undo one big jubbly clip, and move the tube out the way. Cheers Peter W PPS Does it do anything beneficial though?????? Edited November 15, 2015 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Interesting throttle conversion - I kept the rod / bell crank system on mine (& Mikes) HS's just had to shorten the horizontal rod, & re-locate the bell crank. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 I have the same setup and the same results this year, Alan. My car's temperature does increase but it hasn't puked or gotten so hot I've worried about it. Are you running an overflow bottle, too? Hi Don When I first filled up after the engine rebuild I lost a bit of water on heat up, but after referring to this forum I found out that once the radiator has emptied out till there is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of air below the filler cap in the radiator extension I have not lost any more water or had overheating problems. Like Tom I fitted a restricter in the bypass hose but with a bigger hole in the bypass itself than in Toms example about 7-8mm if memory serves me correctly cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 (edited) Apologies for the delay but here is my best effort.... I am no good with Drawing software much to my annoyance! I think this diagram with the photos I posted previously will clarify whats what , but if not just ask. You can click on the photo to go to the source and enlarge it for easier reference. The additional hole seen on the photos nearer the rad is for the repositioned horns so can be ignored. For the other hand just reverse the template. Happy fabricating Iain Edited December 11, 2015 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 Thanks Ian, most useful. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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