PYU940F Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi Roger "I have a listing of every standard thread in Christendom and there are a few." Refurbished my seats and having problem getting the little bolts (Screws?) that attach the bottom round bumpers to the frame. Of the top of your head what is the thread on these? Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi Simon, my thread listing only gives the details of the thread/diameter not any part numbers. The part number is YL6512 #34 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/interior/seats-seat-covers/seat-frames-fittings-tr4-4a-type-3.html No longer kept in stock It will be quite small probably 8/32 - or even a self tapper. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi Roger When taking the taper lock screws out i was helped by the fact that my brake adjuster spanner which has square "holes": one size exactly fits the taper screw head and that enabled me to undo the little b..tards as they were very stiff Regards Michael Anybody got a better way of undoing them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 (edited) I don't think getting them out is the problem, it's getting them out intact ! Bob. Edited August 14, 2017 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi Michael, I use an 8 point socket that works well. As Bob says it isn;t the undoing, its the number of parts you have in your hand at the end of the exercise. Thankfully my one screw that broke came out without too much of a fight and no damage. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 I must have been lucky! Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Hi Michael, the one that broke on mine had what appeared to be a clear sealant on the thread - not exhibited on the other two screws. I fitted the new ones with 'Studlock'. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 (edited) Hi Folks, a couple of good results over the last week. The gearbox top cover got all sorted out and works OK The OD operating valve shaft O rings have been replaced and so far - no leaks (or for the Welsh - No leeks) Today I took the Blue Racer for its MOT - it didn't fail. In fact the queue was about three hours long so I came home and will go early tomorrow. This afternoon I didn't want to get too involved because of tomorrows MOT so I dug the old tonneau cover out to see if it was savable. It was certainly grubby on the vinyl side with the odd spider on the inside. Thankfully all the fasteners around the back and on the doors all lined up (two were a bit of a stretch). The poppers on top of the dash had been removed so they will need replacing. The grubby vinyl top had a good clean with modern foamy stuff but didnt really do anything. Sue attacked it with neat Flash and that didn;t do it either. In the end I applied Cherry Blossom shoe polish and bingo it looks very good - see pics below. On the subject of poppers on the dash. The tonneau has a pair of studs in the middle (one either side of the zip). There are a pair on the lefthand side but there is only one stud on the drivers side. I can see how the poppers would have fitted for the centre and leftside - a pair of studs on a plate either side of the screen frame attachment screws. But the drivers side lines up with the screw for holding the frame. What have people got on the drivers side to hold the fornt of the tonneau.? Roger Before and after - Half & half All done Edited August 22, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Hi Folks, well, I've had a funny couple of days. After a nice break in Ireland - and yes I did drink and enjoy the Guinness. Don;t care for it much here) - I got back to the TR4 assembly. TRying to fit the driver side door card. Before you do this you have to do all the other things first Fit cage nuts for the door pull. These were not with the car and in fact not with any supplier also. So I used an flat head M4 Ali rivnut with a 1/4 washer behind. The thread needs retapping to 8/32UNC but is more than strong enough for the job. Refit a water curtain. This wasn't in the car so I knocked up a simply curtain from a flexible sheet of plastic (recycling bag) and held in place with silicon sealer along the top. If any water gets in it should drain easily to the bottom. At the bottom I sprayed a waxy stuff to give it some protection. Next thing is to fit the spring clips to the card and align with the holes in the door. This is an absolute bugger of a job. It appears the holes in the card are cut coincident with the holes in the door. This means that the clips (being offset) are only just hanging on the card. To help align things I dragged another door out of the cupboard to put horizontal on the bench to give me a better look at things. This door came from the US courtesy of Stef (Geko) and it has some odd things not seen on my 4A doors. Where the card spring clips go into the door vertical and lower sides the holes had plastic retainers (Snapsac). I understand these are no longer available. However the holes in the US door are 5/16 to take the snapsacs - could be interesting if the door ever got rebuilt. The holes in the TR4 door are smaller (apprx 7/32") so at least the clips will fit. After lunch I shall trial fit the card on the US door (I hope the holes are in the same place) this may make it easier to align the clips. Fitting to the TR4 door then may be easier. Have others had issues with the pre-cut holes in the card being in the wrong place. I found that the 'B' post side wall cards had their holes poorly placed and ended up making my own hardboard backing. May be the practice on them will come in good for the door cards. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 The hole alignment has always been like that Roger, welcome to my world! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 The hole alignment has always been like that Roger, welcome to my world! Stuart. Hi Stuart, I didn't know you were a Jim Reeves fan. Using the US door to align the clips has helped. The only issue at the moment is there is a clip where there is no hole. I think it will be easier to put a hole in the door for the clip to go into rather than try to cut a hole in the hardboard. This afternoon should be interesting Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 There are a couple of holes that arent used. You will also find that due to the piping around the edge you will struggle to get some of the clips to go out far enough to align with the holes which they do need to as the backing boards are very flimsy and dont like any strain. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Roger Your post 22/8/2017 tonneau . You will should have two single studs ( item 38 on Moss website , TR4 weather equipment ) part number 611709. i.e driver's side and passenger's side and a double stud, part number 611707 in the centre of the windscreen. The purpose of the double in the centre being that you can have 3/4's of the cabin " covered "by the tonneau with just the driver's section "open " for driving. The "tail" of material , dangling from the tonneau , is tethered to the side of the seat base side to stop the wind billowing the underside of the tonneau when driving. Hope this sheds some light on the issue. regards , Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Hi Bob, I do not have the tail of material at present but you have clarified the mystery of the popper studs with no apparent use. That can now be sorted. Regarding the door card; I did manage to get all the clips into all the holes. I needed to make a new hole in the hardboard to align a clip with a hole in the door. Having fitted the door card (it did look good) I realised that I hadn't put the springs in around the door lock and window winder. Anyway when fitting the card I did notice a few scratches in the paint on the area of dor above the door pull. I will need to clean this up and give it a spray One step forward, two steps back (and perhaps one to the side as well) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Roger , I'd like to say " I'd never forgotten to put the conical springs on behind the door card " but.... I can't !! That's how " us amateur restorers " learn things isn't it ? It also explains why it took me so long to do my nut and bolt restoration. Keep plugging away , the list gets smaller and smaller.... eventually. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Hi Bob, when I did my 4A though the 90's I worked every minute of the day solving problems on my own as there was no forum. After seven years it was like a new pin. Nothing was too much and all problems got sorted. The Blue Racer is a different issue. I have no love for the car. It should have been a 3 month clean up but I started it all wrong and i created a mountain of work. However for this car I'm finding different things that are becoming stumbling blocks and the use of the forum possibly makes things harder as peer pressure makes you do things spot on. Today in fitting the door cards I realised that I should have done a couple of things before starting. Tomorrow we go back to painting - this could could take the next week or so. It is satisfying to finish something. The engine build and the soft top hood were particularly enjoyable. Very nerve wracking but the finish is there. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 Well Done Roger ~ Keep your chin up and see it through ~ It'll be very well worth it! Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Don't forget that owning a TR and rebuilding it is a hobby and like football should not be taken too seriously It is just that for some people it fills their every waking minute Sadly I suspect I am one such and that enables me to recognise others Keep the faith struggle on because you are unlikely to be able to kick the addiction Fellow sufferer Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 (edited) Hi Michael, I couldn't agree more. When writing my diatribe I tend to glamourise for effect. Things aren't really as bad all the time. But when I said I have not love for the car that is pretty much so. It will get finished because I started it. And it gives me more reason to buy tools. I have a spot welder don;t you know!!. Roger Edited September 13, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 only one? I have an electric stick welder that I gave away, a mig that I never use and a set of oxy acetylene which welds everything from chassis to bodywork Even went to local college to learn how to do it At least when it falls apart I know who to blame! Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Hi Michael, I have an arc welder (MMA) that I can use very well - lovely beads and nothing drops off. I have a MIG that is not easy to use. Somebody referred to it as chicken shit welds. And now I have a spot welder that I had to rebuild when I opened the box. It now produces decent spots I never got into Oxy. I did it for a week during my apprenticeship but that was it. Shortly before I retired a colleague at BA welded two sheets of lead together for a radiation screen it was a work of art. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 Hi Folks, rebuild posts appear to have been wandering around the forumnii. So back to business. The other week I bought and fitted some fluffy blue edge TRim around the doors to go with the TRF rubber door seal. The doors would close with the rubber seal but not with the fluffy edge TRim It was suggested that Moss do a more compliant rubber seal but the fluffy stuff is too thick. This morning I found that the rubber seal on its own is too thick for my door set-up. The TRF seal is just about OK but only just. So not to be defeated I performed surgery on the seal. The area of the seal, coincident with the area of the door frame where just below the windscreen, had its innards surgically removed. That is the seal sorted. The blue fluffy TRim is made of blue fluffy stuff on a steel springy backing (on the inside). I unraveled the fluffy stuff off the steel backing (on the inside) in the area coincident with just below the screen. I then cut off the steel backing (that is now not on the inside of the fluffy stuff When fitted the steel backing (on the inside of the fluffy stuff) grips above and below the area where i removed the springy backing (now on the floor) And because it is snug up against the side of the dash is sits quite happily. The door closes very nicely. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 Smug mode ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 Hi Folks, why oh why oh why is life such a bummer at times. (Smug mode - off) Yesterday I spent quite a while trying to understand why the passenger door would not close fully and I thought I had found the problem. Playing with the rubber seal and the fluffy trim I thought I had it sorted. Today I found that although the door would close quite nicely it didn't close fully - hmmm. Upon investigation I found that it was not the 'A' post (just below the screen) that was the main problem but the lower corner at the 'B' post. With no seal or fluff the door closes too far. With the fluffy bit in place the door closes too far With the rubber seal in place (no fluff) the door just about closes fully but will spring open if you sneeze.. I have used the TRF seal 650310 that appeared to work but then didn't. Last week I tried the Moss seal but that was less good. I have an idea for my next plan. If it works I'll publish and be damned. If it doesn;t work then it will be my little secret. Off to footy now - Fulham V Preston NE Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 Just slam it harder Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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