No Oil Pressure tr4a

[phil Dean]

So I have cleaned and rebuilt the sump with new gaskets and bolted it all back together, also changed the copper washers on the bango bolt that connects the oil pump to the oil pressure gauge. Filled the car with oil,  Changed the oil filter Today I have turned the engine over without the lead to the coil on. No Oil pressure after a minute of cranking. Reconnected the lead to the coil. Tried starting it it fired up straight away but no oil pressure reading turned it of tried again without the coil lead on still the same, after every session I have checked the oil level. ITs gone from full to 3/4 and now down to half full so I presume the oil pump is doing its job. TRGB say I should take the plugs out and try cranking again and should eventually see oil come out of the plug holes. But also suggest I might have maybe disturbed the hole in the banjo bolt which feeds the oil pressure gauge.

Maybe I should say I started the car last week to warm the oil, prior to draining and I had a healthy 70 psi oil pressure.

Anybody got any further suggestions things I might try.

 

Phil.

Edited April 9 by phil Dean

[TR Rob]

What….oil out of the spark plug holes ….!!

[RobH]

More than likely that it's the gauge feed since you have been working on that Phil. Perhaps something got in to the pipe?  Worth checking it first - perhaps disconnect the banjo and the gauge and blow it through with air from the gauge end.   Did the low oil-pressure warning light go out on the dash ?  If you lift the rocker cover you should see evidence of oil getting fed there. 

[Lebro]

Are the copper washers on the banjo the right way round ? The one with the larger hole goes against the filter housing 

Bob

[phil Dean]

I ve just checked it again no it didn't

[Drewmotty]

Keep trying with the plugs out. It takes a long time to fill the oil filter and then raise pressure. 

[phil Dean]

Aww I think I have put it the other way round sod it. will try again tomorrow. had enough of it today.

Phil

[phil Dean]

I think the oil is circulated. Looking at the manual it takes 6.25 litres when totally filling on my last check after filling it with 6 litres its on the half way with the dip stick.

I am hoping Bob has come up with the answer ref copper washers on the Banjo. Finger crossed.Phil.

[trchris]

Hi Phil l always leave my oil level mid way up the dip stick just remember that the min is the lowest you should have in the sump and the max is obviously the most in between is fine the lines are just guides

Chris

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Point 1.   When you changed the oil filter did you part fill the filter bowl with oil, or as full as you dare so it did not dribble down your hands as you refitted the bowl.?  You have rechecked the oil level and the 1/2 litre drop is probably the content of the oil filter bowl.

Point 2.  Did you crank it with the plugs out and the coil wire disconnected to see the oil pressure rise?  I do that sitting in the car.   When the oil pressure comes up go and look under the car for obvious oil leaks and feel for excessive oil around the oil filter,  before fitting plugs, reconnecting coil and pressing the go button.

As Bob remarks.   Get the copper washer with the bigger hole in it, the one that is sloppy on the stud, next to the filter head, then the banjo, finally the washer with the hole that fits the stud plus retaining cap nut.

 

[phil Dean]

Peter no I didn’t pre fill the filter so that’s we’re the half litre has probably gone, I will try again tomorrow first of all changing the copper washers on the bango first. Chris I have read in the past on the forum about running oil levels between half and 3/4 full is there a scientific reason for this. 

Phil

[Motorsport Mickey]

“is there a scientific reason for this. “

Phil

Yes, depending upon the breathing of various engines the inside of the block when running is like a mighty washing machine.

Even with trucks, you don’t fill the oil to the top mark, and the correct level is the one where the pressure inside doesn’t get excessive and push the oil out past the seals. With modern trucks, particularly running electric oil level gauges, you constantly have to remind drivers that the early morning oil check MUST be done before starting the engine. They often like to move the truck to the fuel bowser or pump and check the oil as the truck is being fuelled. There is so much oil held in Suspension inside the engine, that even a 10 or 15 second engine run to get the truck to the pumps leaves enough suspended inside the gubbins( technical term),  that by the end of the week drivers complain of oil blow by and smoking on corners ( excessive splashing from the crank dipping into the oil). When you drain the engine it’s not unusual for it to be a litre or 2 ( big volumes in trucks) too full and the oil seals don’t like it. 
The engine doesn’t care if the oil level is to the minimum mark, or somewhere in the middle of the scale. It doesn’t run worse or better, and keeping it full because then you don’t have to check it so often…! is not a good reason. 
You’ll often find the engine establishes itself the correct level, it will chuck out the excess and then the consumption becomes much less when the level is correct.

Mick Richards

Edited April 9 by Motorsport Mickey

[tim hunt]

2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Point 1.   When you changed the oil filter did you part fill the filter bowl with oil, or as full as you dare so it did not dribble down your hands as you refitted the bowl.?  You have rechecked the oil level and the 1/2 litre drop is probably the content of the oil filter bowl.

Point 2.  Did you crank it with the plugs out and the coil wire disconnected to see the oil pressure rise?  I do that sitting in the car.   When the oil pressure comes up go and look under the car for obvious oil leaks and feel for excessive oil around the oil filter,  before fitting plugs, reconnecting coil and pressing the go button.

As Bob remarks.   Get the copper washer with the bigger hole in it, the one that is sloppy on the stud, next to the filter head, then the banjo, finally the washer with the hole that fits the stud plus retaining cap nut.

 

+1 I adopt the same technique as Pete after every oil & filter change and find that it can take 20 secs of cranking at least before I see 50+ psi on the oil pressure gauge.

Tim

[stuart]

Standard oil level on a TR is half way, fill it up to top mark it`ll use it down to half way anyway, theyve always done it. Fill to half way and you`ll normally not need to add any..

Stuart.

[phil Dean]

Reeesult Thanks Bob and all those who chipped in on this one. Once I had changed the washer round on the banjo and removed the plugs turned it over oil pressure straight away Thank Goodness. Cleaned the plugs put them back in it started the oil pressure went up to 95 psI I thought that's to much but quickly dropped back to 75 psi. Then the car cut out kept trying but it wouldn't restart then I realised I had turned the fuel off the other day when I was doing the washers on the bango doh. (Not fit to be let out) Once turned on and pump primed it restarted and ran ok.  

Checked under neath and I cannot see any oil leaks but when I get it back on its feet I good run will be the real test.

Should there be a torque setting for spark plugs and I couldn't find one for the bango bolt.

Thanks again Phil.

 

Edited April 10 by phil Dean

[John Broadley]

As an adjunct to this issue, I had similar on my TR4. Initial oil pressure took ages to build up after cold start, but was fine after that. I checked the two washers on the banjo, and the one with the big hole was in the correct place next to the filter housing - but - it was not centred on the stud. I centred it and tightened everything up, and it has been spot-on ever since. Pressure building as soon as the engine turns over. So make sure the washer with the big hole is centred!

John

[phil Dean]

Yes it is John thanks oil pressure starts climbing as soon as you start it.