John L Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 Could you measure the 2 pushrods please, it would be good to have a locked topic on this issue of the clutch parts for the 5 & 6, left and right hand drive as this does seem to come up quite often. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 20 hours ago, Z320 said: It can’t popp out, there is a stop clip. Mine did not come with a stop clip, and has popped out. I wonder how many variants are out there of the slave cylinder. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 12 minutes ago, JohnC said: Mine did not come with a stop clip, and has popped out. I wonder how many variants are out there of the slave cylinder. Unbelievable! More and more I notice the market is full with „phantasy“ parts and fancy tools, „invented“ by people who don’t know what they do, thinking „could match“ is good enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesStag Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 Hi Tim, I saw this topic and thought ' I probably know what that is...' as I had exactly the same issue around 6 years ago refurbishing all the clutch hydraulics on my '69 TR6. ! I'm glad to see you have resolved it. I also got my MC from Rimmers and fed back to them that my original MC pushrod was ~10mm longer than their new one that was supplied. With pictures. My original pushrod had not been modified. A simple swap over sorted my clutch. They replied to say they would investigate and in due course did reply to say they confirmed the pushrod was not long enough and they'd speak to their suppliers.... Clearly they have now forgotten this again! Cheers J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CharlieBubbles Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 15 hours ago, timpress said: Thought I'd bring closure to the topic now I fixed it and let all know what got it working. I needed to use the original modified master cylinder push rod as it was around 10mm longer (see photo) and engaged the pedal at a higher position. The photo is before I removed the new pushrod and measured but this quick check proved my thoughts. Not sure why the master cylinder pushrod was modified but clearly whoever had the car in the past had to work on the hydraulics and had the same issue and modified it. Any way, all good now and thanks all for the advise. Interesting following the paths of POs in this area. I changed a ‘wrong’ 0.75 master cylinder for a ‘correct’ 0.70 and immediately realised why the PO had done it as the reduced clearance exposed a knackered clutch plate! Things happen for a reason… Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timpress Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 (edited) 15 hours ago, John L said: Could you measure the 2 pushrods please, it would be good to have a locked topic on this issue of the clutch parts for the 5 & 6, left and right hand drive as this does seem to come up quite often. Unfortunately I have it all assembled with the my 'old' modified pushrod now back in place but with information sharing key to keeping these machines on the road and as asked, please find the new (unused) push rod length +-83mm and the old one about 10mm longer at +-93mm. It made the world of difference. Edited February 19 by timpress Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 How about you buy a cylinder with a threaded push rod and suitable clevis then adjust to suit? https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/07-brake-and-clutch-master-cylinder-with-reservoir https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/516-master-cylinder-clevis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timpress Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 (edited) 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: How about you buy a cylinder with a threaded push rod and suitable clevis then adjust to suit? https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/07-brake-and-clutch-master-cylinder-with-reservoir https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/516-master-cylinder-clevis When I bought mine as a direct replacement a few weeks ago, I didnt realise I would have an issue and the push rod change was simple when I figured out what was wrong. With hindsight I probably would buy an adjustable one now. Edited February 19 by timpress Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 (edited) Could the moderators please make this a fixed topic in the 6 forum please. Clutch Information. Clutch master cylinder pushrod length for R/H drive should be overall length 93mm either 0.75" or 0.70" Clutch master cylinder pushrod length for L/H drive should be overall length 83mm Slave cylinder bracket should be mounted on the front of the engine backplate. The slave cylinder should be inserted from the rear of the bracket, with the bleed screw uppermost for effective bleeding The slave cylinder push rod should be from the end to the centre of the pin hole 14,5mm 138572. John Edited February 19 by John L Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 As I mentioned the master cylinders are not unique the the TRs, the 0.75” are a common fitment in the automotive and trailer brake use, but the push rods used are not all the same for all uses. Some of the small scale vendors should know this, but rarely do. The TR specialist parts suppliers should be checking deliveries to make sure they have the correct part before putting it on their warehouse shelves. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 45 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said: As I mentioned the master cylinders are not unique the the TRs, the 0.75” are a common fitment in the automotive and trailer brake use, but the push rods used are not all the same for all uses. Some of the small scale vendors should know this, but rarely do. The TR specialist parts suppliers should be checking deliveries to make sure they have the correct part before putting it on their warehouse shelves. Agreed When Girling short supplied the RHD clutch master with push rod some years back we supplied them without pushrods. That kept the cars on the road. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted February 21 Report Share Posted February 21 On 2/19/2024 at 7:02 AM, Z320 said: Unbelievable! More and more I notice the market is full with „phantasy“ parts and fancy tools, „invented“ by people who don’t know what they do, thinking „could match“ is good enough. In many cases, 50+ years of 'Desert Island Engineering' using whatever can be sourced 'locally'!!! In some cases, actually quite clever and creative!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 22 Report Share Posted February 22 On 2/17/2024 at 4:55 PM, timpress said: Hello all, Looking for some advice on clutch hydraulics. My TR6 is a rolling rebuild and the clutch hydraulics were weeping so I decided to the hydraulics, Master and slave cylinders and as the pipe snapped both ends when removing a new hose and and pipe were also fitted. All was working ok before I did the work but now I dont have enough throw to engage the gears as can be seen by the video. Also as can be seen by the photo of the dirty slave, it was fitted the wrong side of the plate and also odd was that the master cylinder pushrod had a welded piece added. Any thoughts on what could be going on? Thanks The welded piece added I suspect was added to take up the slack in the clutch movement so that the clutch lever arm moved much more? My car I have had for 50 years and is a CR, in my opinion the .70 bore master cylinder is useless. It gave me trouble with gear selection right from the beginning of ownership. I could not have a rubber mat in the foot well with out gear crunching! I changed the M/C to a .75 as per original took out all the slack ( free Movement) and it has worked perfectly for 50 years. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted February 22 Report Share Posted February 22 (edited) . Edited February 22 by Jonny TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted February 22 Report Share Posted February 22 On 2/18/2024 at 5:17 PM, timpress said: Thought I'd bring closure to the topic now I fixed it and let all know what got it working. I needed to use the original modified master cylinder push rod as it was around 10mm longer (see photo) and engaged the pedal at a higher position. The photo is before I removed the new pushrod and measured but this quick check proved my thoughts. Not sure why the master cylinder pushrod was modified but clearly whoever had the car in the past had to work on the hydraulics and had the same issue and modified it. Any way, all good now and thanks all for the advise. Looks like the issue has also crept into the feet of the camera operator. Did you use appropriate protection ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timpress Posted February 23 Author Report Share Posted February 23 (edited) 22 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said: Looks like the issue has also crept into the feet of the camera operator. Did you use appropriate protection ? LOL, it really does!! Thats my 14yr old daughter who was reluctant to help her old man with the camera. Edited February 23 by timpress Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BaulyCars Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 (edited) May or may not be the same cause as your issue Tim, but I found an 'additional nut mod' inside my SC, without which the clutch/gearbox would crunch. I removed it but just ended up having to space out the SC using a bunch of washers... No doubt not the right way, but a temp fix. Edited March 7 by BaulyCars Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 I see no clip or washer to hold the push rod and piston back in the slave cylinder…. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BaulyCars Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Z320 said: I see no clip or washer to hold the push rod and piston back in the slave cylinder…. I missed it too at first, but there was a nut in there..., actually quite a nice nyloc one, which I kept for other things Or you mean its missing something else (apologies if I'm misunderstanding) Edited March 7 by BaulyCars Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 Is there a groove to fit a clip? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BaulyCars Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 (edited) I don’t see one, the bore wall is smooth without any recess. When fixing it I was freely able to remove both the rod and the cylinder. I suspect this is wrong? Edited March 7 by BaulyCars Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 4 hours ago, BaulyCars said: I don’t see one, the bore wall is smooth without any recess. When fixing it I was freely able to remove both the rod and the cylinder. I suspect this is wrong? A lot of TR6 type slave cylinders are like that. When Pinky burnt his clutch out on the way to Malvern one year he lost that much throw on his slave cylinder the rod did drop out. I managed a temporary fix in the car park by changing the slave cylinder to the back of the mounting plate and re-bleeding the system and he got to the show and back home with his clutch bite point on the floor. When stripped the clutch plate looked like a metal fan as all the lining material was gone! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BaulyCars Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 4 hours ago, stuart said: A lot of TR6 type slave cylinders are like that. When Pinky burnt his clutch out on the way to Malvern one year he lost that much throw on his slave cylinder the rod did drop out. I managed a temporary fix in the car park by changing the slave cylinder to the back of the mounting plate and re-bleeding the system and he got to the show and back home with his clutch bite point on the floor. When stripped the clutch plate looked like a metal fan as all the lining material was gone! Stuart. OK so mines probably normal, good to know. Haha, superb! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted March 7 Report Share Posted March 7 On my TR4A the slave had the groove, spring wire clip, washer, adjustable push rod. Clutch problem is mainly a TR6 problem. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
87bor Posted March 21 Report Share Posted March 21 Have you checked any play at the master cylinder. The pushrod should be 81mm from end of spigot to the centre of the clevis pin hole. Also there may be play in the pedal lever. The hole become oval over time and you lose 5 to 10mm of throw on the pedal. The photo proves my point. New master cylinders are sent out with the wrong length push rod. You can go round and around incircles before realising this could be your problem. Because it's new you assume it must be OK. Your issue could also be down to a dodgy clutch assembly. I live in New Zealand and many of us are reliant on Rimmer Bros for our parts. Unfortunately the quality of their items has gone downhill over the years to the point that we are afraid to order from them anymore. We search for old parts at the Vintage Car Club and restore them whenever possible. You can put up simple things like ill fitting dashboards and door cards, radiator overflow bottles with no thread (so the lid won't stay on), but when you buy their clutch kit and spend months bleeding the hell out of the system trying to get the gears to engage it can become extremely time wasting, frustrating and downright depressing when faced with having to pull the gearbox out again. Luckily we have a clutch specialist in Christchurch who can rebuild clutches to a standard better than the original. I would recommend anyone with the option to use someone like this as opposed to buying new. Doesn't matter if it says Laycock or Borg and Beck on the box, that junk comes from China and you will be playing Russian Roulette. Maybe it works and maybe it doesn't. If you lay an old original borg and beck clutch against a new one you can see the difference in quality. The pressure plate is lighter and the fingers are thinner. Release bearings are again a low quality reproduction. I was so fed up with sticky clutches in my TR6 that I ripped the Triumph gearbox and clutch out and installed a Toyota W58 five speed conversion. It transformed the car. That was 13 years ago and it has been maintainance free ever since ......and no oil leaks! Just like you, a friend of mine has been going through hell with a new Rimmers Clutch in his newly restored TR5. The car is undrivable. Having just installed a brand new interior he has to rip the gearbox out and find out why the clutch is so hard and snatchy and won't engage cleanly. He should take the clutch to the specilist and have it assessed and if it is shown to be substandard consider suing Rimmers. I have always been suspicious that they send seconds or returned items overseas because they know we won't pay the courier fees to return them. Go onto the Trustpilot website and look up Rimmers and you can see how dreadful their reviews are. https://nz.trustpilot.com/review/rimmerbros.com. Just like Booking.com any positive reviews are most likely fake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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