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Repairing a thread without removing the sump?


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Now I'm confused a bit: the manual states 5/16 UNF as the thread.
I have ordered a VCoil set 5/16 × 24.
 And now I have also discovered a 5/16 × 18 set.
Which is the right one?

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I think I must be missing something here, but I thought the bolts holding the sump on were UNC not UNF - happy to be corrected - maybe I've got the wrong bolts!

Cheers Rich

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1 hour ago, rcreweread said:

I think I must be missing something here, but I thought the bolts holding the sump on were UNC not UNF - happy to be corrected - maybe I've got the wrong bolts!

Cheers Rich

Whoops - spotted my error - this post is about the 6 cylinder engines on which the sump bolts are UNF - on 4 cylinders they are UNC

Cheers Rich

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55 minutes ago, rcreweread said:

Whoops - spotted my error - this post is about the 6 cylinder engines on which the sump bolts are UNF - on 4 cylinders they are UNC

Cheers Rich

That’s very geeky Rich, but very impressive ! :D

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Just now, Jonny TR6 said:

That’s very geeky Rich, but very impressive ! :D

Jonny - not sure about geeky, more like stupid - I should stick to what I know best, the 4 pots. At least I spotted my mistake before anyone else pointed it out so I saved a bit of embarrassment!

Cheers Rich

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Hi Casar66,

Just adding to the advice you have been given. A few years ago I did a similar repair on my TR5 using a helicoil at the front of the engine where there is an aluminium bridge piece. The biggest problem I faced was getting access to drill the tapping hole and tapping the thread.

For the tapping drill, the special helicoil drill is 8.3 mm in diameter. I bought an 8.00mm diameter drill, which has a 1/4" hexagonal drive (Bosch HSS Impact), then used a long extension in a drill similar to these that a friend had:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166437203294?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=132-gjzjq1i&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dRwPbWsuRay&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Although the drill was 0.3mm less in diameter than the helicoil tapping drill, tapping into the soft aluminium was fine. 

I bought one of these extensions from eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155376972079?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ieousdxtq-u&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dRwPbWsuRay&var=455580083734&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This enabled me to mount the tap and tap the hole for the helicoil thread insert, swinging it beneath the sump. I used grease on the tap to catch the swarf. I did the same when I broke off the helicoil tang and managed to remove it from the hole, washing it out will some WD 40.

I hope that this helps and good luck.

Edited by DenisMc
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Quite possibly they are! It is often worth shopping about :)

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Quote

For the tapping drill, the special helicoil drill is 8.3 mm in diameter. I bought an 8.00mm diameter drill, which has a 1/4" hexagonal drive (Bosch HSS Impact), then used a long extension in a drill similar to these that a friend had:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166437203294?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=132-gjzjq1i&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dRwPbWsuRay&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

And the hole was really accurate with this extension? I had already thought of something like this, but rejected it again, as there is always a bit of play.

The statement that the 8mm drill bit in aluminum also works with the helicoil is very helpful. Because then I could also use a normal 8mm drill extension. Or is it just the little bit of play with the bit extension that makes the 8mm hole a little wider?

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The end of the helicoil tap is tapered and slightly less than 8mm in diameter. In all probability, as you say, an 8 mm drill held in an extension and mounted in a hand held drill will probably cut larger in diameter particularly at the start. I was fortunate to have the use of a pit and had a friend stand behind me and to the side to ensure that the drill entered the hole at right angles to the sump flange as possible. The aluminium alloy used is quite soft and with a little upward force had no difficulty in getting the tap to start, again whilst being guided by a friend. I took my time turning the tap half to three quarters of a turn at a time then reversing it slightly to break off the cut metal. It is worth noting that a stripped 5/16" UNF internal thread is going to be close to 8mm in diameter anyway. 

I hope that this helps!

Edited by DenisMc
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Today the Vcoil thread set arrived and I  checked the length of the drill and it seemed that it could work without an extension. But I had a look at the TR6 repair manual again. And read fore the first time that the 4 bolts at the sump's rear should be longer than the other 19. But my 23 ones are all the same length. So with a very close look at the ( in deed blind) hole I saw that only the first threads are gone but there were many good ones left. So all it need was a 1/4 inch longer srew. Sorry for a lot of fuss about nothing. 

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Take the sump off and do it properly.

The fiddly hassle of trying to squeeze past the sump, removal  of swarf ect outweighs the cost of 6L of oil and a sump gasket.

On the bench its easy to fit a helicoil.

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1 hour ago, Casar66 said:

Today the Vcoil thread set arrived and I  checked the length of the drill and it seemed that it could work without an extension. But I had a look at the TR6 repair manual again. And read fore the first time that the 4 bolts at the sump's rear should be longer than the other 19. But my 23 ones are all the same length. So with a very close look at the ( in deed blind) hole I saw that only the first threads are gone but there were many good ones left. So all it need was a 1/4 inch longer srew. Sorry for a lot of fuss about nothing. 

A good result 

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