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TR3A Headlight Bulb upgrade


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Do you mean an LED bulb? They will all work with the existing glass if it is not a Tripod lamp.  The difficulty is not the glass, it is the bulb base - the TR3 has a BPF (P36D) base and there are few LED options for that. Most are for the H4 base.

The tripod lamp is more difficult as it has the centre disc which blocks the light from a projector-type bulb. This one for instance will work with the plain glass lens but not with a tripod lamp. 

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/bpf-p36d-437-368-370-414-led-headlight-upgrade-6-12-and-24-volt-negative-or-positive-earth-great-beam-strength-and-pattern

 

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I have H4 reflectors and Classic LED upgrades - they are excellent. 

Rgds Ian

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/latest-led-headlights-h4-philips-z-es-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v?_pos=7&_sid=cdcbf9bdd&_ss=r

Edited by Ian Vincent
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Like Ian, I have fitted the Classiccar LED’s in my TR3a .

In my case I just tucked the small black box driver in the void between reflector and headlamp shell
 

Also fitted the dual white / amber LED in the front sidelights again no issue and finally fitted “Lebro’s” brake light LED’s …..excellent.

Did have a bit of pulsing due to the fitting of an electric fuel pump, but this was resolved due to the alternator/ammeter being wired incorrectly by previous PO.

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I have said this before - I fitted a Moss headlamp relay kit to my 4A a few years ago. The switch circuit presents some resistance and the headlamps are less bright. With the relays the power goes straight from the battery to the headlamps when the switch is on. There are fuses with the relays. Made a noticeable difference. Back in the 90's I drove in France with yellow beam deflectors and after fitting the relays I could see where I was going. Try this before changing all your bulbs.

Keith

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34 minutes ago, keith1948 said:

and after fitting the relays I could see where I was going. Try this before changing all your bulbs.

Relays are a good thing if retaining filament bulbs but are not necessary with LED bulbs. The current drawn is much less, so voltage drop is minimised.  Also most LED bulbs are regulated so that variations in the supply voltage do not alter the brightness.  

After all, it's much less faff to change a bulb than it is to install relays. 

 

 

Edited by RobH
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18 hours ago, keith1948 said:

I have the original style sealed beam headlamps not halogen.

Keith

I take it you dont go out at night then?............................................Or do you...................Cats eyes!;)

Stuart.

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28 minutes ago, stuart said:

I take it you dont go out at night then?............................................Or do you...................Cats eyes!;)

Stuart.

Hi Stuart

As I said, the Moss relay kit made a real difference on my 4A. I have driven all over France, Spain, Ireland and UK at night with no problems. In France and Spain I have had the yellow plastic beam deflectors fitted as well. I have been driving the TR for about 30 years without needing LED headlamps etc. I did fit a high level LED brake light repeater bar on the rear Surrey screen though for the benefit of tailgaters. 

I have also managed to find my way without a sat nav. Wonderful things maps!

Apart from brake servo and handbrake upgrade, TR6 wheels and seats I have tried to keep the car close to original. 

Keith

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10 hours ago, stuart said:

I take it you dont go out at night then?............................................Or do you...................Cats eyes!;)

Stuart.

+1

When I rebuilt my TR3a I fitted relays on all the electrics and new sealed beam headlamps and the first time I went out at night, I frightened myself to death. It was like a couple of glow worms - so I converted to halogen H4 but even they can’t compete with modern stuff with HID so last year I bought and fitted the Classic Car LEDs and driving back from the Revival was a revelation. 
Rgds Ian

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My earliest modifications to my TR2 in 1972 were an electric cooling fan based on a wiper motor and a fan from a Ford Escort plus a bit of Mecano.  The next mod was a pair of halogen headlamps to replace the ‘through the night darkly’ Lucas. BPF units.  The ability to see where I was going at night and not boil the engine when stuck in traffic were sheer delights..   

 

That said in 1974 I fitted a pair of Lucas ( bright eyes) sealed beam halogen units from a V12 E type.  The conversion was a step change in night visibility for the better over the bulbed  H4 units.

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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I fitted relays to my headlamp circuits some 7 years ago, and published the results in an article in TR Action 296 (March 2017).

The gain seen by the high beam lamp filaments was over one and a half volts - that is a lot!

Ian Cornish

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Yes, but, bulbs exhibit a characteristic that the hotter they get the higher their electrical resistance. Which means a rise of 1.5V does not give a proportional increase in brightness.

Bob

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Bob - Correct.  However, you'll note that I did not claim that the increase in brightness would be proportional to the square of the (increased) voltage, because I was aware of the effect of increasing the temperature of the bulb's filament.

Nevertheless, the increase in the voltage measured at the bulb is certainly noticeable to the driver, and that is what matters.

 

BTW, I am changing the 6ft fluorescent lights in my garage to 6ft LEDs - what a difference!   No need to wait for the tubes to flicker and light, and much more light!

Ian Cornish

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I fitted relays in my headlamp circuit primarily to ease the load on the main on/off dash board switch and the foot operated dip switch.      I drew up the relay kit for Moss to be aimed at the TR range, especially the later cars with the somewhat flimsy steering stalk lamp switch, which sold well due to being overloaded by people installing higher wattage halogen bulbs.   Remember those!   75 watt dip 100 watt main halogen H4 bulbs.  Nicely illegal but shoved out a lot of light.

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I have fitted relays to both my TR6 and Stag, mainly to protect the 50 yo switches.  It also gives me a reason to redo most of the connectors. I also have LEDs in the 6. They are certainly vv bright, almost too bright, the reflection of large signs can be quite dazzling. During the round britain reliability run i had a few people in oncoming traffic flash me even though the aims were professionalLy set up.. these were LEDs from a well recognised supplier  

For my stag i fitted slightly cheaper units and my garage could not get a clean enough image to enable them to aim them.. so reverted to nightbreaker xenon an to me they were the perfect balance between brightness and dazzle.. I drove the Round britain reliability run in the stag and no flashes from oncoming vehicles and very good visibility even in the torrential rain we had this year..

the other thing i was considering was if i need to replace one during a run. It is likely i will not be able to get leds so would have to revert to halogens. There was some re-aiming when i fitted leds, which on a run i would not be able to do. Whereas i have never had to re-aim swapping from halogen to halogen..

so now i have a spitfire joining the fleet i think i am going nightbreakers with relays.

shame really as i really like the led tech.. and the lower current draw..

tim

 

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10 hours ago, keith1948 said:

Maybe we all need a trip to Specsavers!

:wacko:

Keith

:D

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